7018 Rod Oven

[duaneb55]

Well Judy's headed for the airport to fly up and rescue Mom from cold country (she stays with us over the winter) so I've commandeered the JennAir to bake up some recently aquired 7018.

Non-greased rack and hold the spices.

[welderShane]

Is that safe in an oven that you cook your food in? I put a few 7018s in my toaster oven before tho!!

[duaneb55]

Originally Posted by welderShane

Is that safe in an oven that you cook your food in? I put a few 7018s in my toaster oven before tho!!

I guess that's a reasonable question. I've heard of others using the kitchen oven to bake rods and never heard any negative comments and not sure there's any type of chemical release when heated as there would be while welding with it in the fumes we're exposed to.

A dedicated used toaster oven is a good alternative to say the least to prevent holding up dinner though.

[duaneb55]

Originally Posted by welderShane

Is that safe in an oven that you cook your food in? I put a few 7018s in my toaster oven before tho!!

I guess if the next batch of chocolate chip cookies Judy bakes comes out looking like a stack of dimes she'll have my hide!

[Craig in Denver]

Originally Posted by duaneb55

Well Judy's headed for the airport, so I've commandeered the JennAir to bake up some recently aquired 7018.

Non-greased rack and hold the spices.

Guys are such cretins. The women are gone for 10 minutes and we're cookin' rod in the oven.

Originally Posted by duaneb55

I guess that's a reasonable question. I've heard of others using the kitchen oven to bake rods and never heard any negative comments and not sure there's any type of chemical release when heated as there would be while welding with it in the fumes we're exposed to.

Women call it 'seasoning'.

Originally Posted by duaneb55

A dedicated used toaster oven is a good alternative to say the least to prevent holding up dinner though.

One must not hold up ones own dinner.

Originally Posted by duaneb55

I guess if the next batch of chocolate chip cookies Judy bakes comes out looking like a stack of dimes she'll have my hide!

LOL. Yup, that'd be a dead giveaway.

Good for you, taking care of Mom over the cold winters.

[denrep]

With the potential manganese concerns out there, probably better use a dedicated oven.

Next thing is temperature.
Isn't maintenance of properly stored electrodes about 300 degrees; but effective dry-out and recondition requires around 800 degrees?

[flatbustedbroke]

Have to set it on clean to get those temps.

[David R]

800 only if it has to be X ray quality. AND if it has been exposed since opening the package, so if it goes from the box to the oven ( I have rod heaters) It is fine. Only needed for code work.

I'll take old damp 7018 before NEW dry 6013.

David

[Craig in Denver]

Originally Posted by denrep

Next thing is temperature.
Isn't maintenance of properly stored electrodes about 300 degrees; but effective dry-out and recondition requires around 800 degrees?

Anyone:
From a hobby perspective, is there any reason I wouldn't rather have 7014 lying around, since it doesn't care about humidity and moisture? Wouldn't it have a longer shelf life? I understand that 7018 is low hydrogen, my question is 'So what'? There is no AWS, pressure vessels or WPS in my world. My 'fer instance' would be general 3/16" and 1/4" metal fab, like Duane's work bench and the 'things' Farmersamm makes.

TIA,
Craig

[Roy Hodges]

[quote=David R;232834]800 only if it has to be X ray quality. AND if it has been exposed since opening the package, so if it goes from the box to the oven ( I have rod heaters) It is fine. Only needed for code work.

I'll take old damp 7018 before NEW dry 6013.

YEAHHHHHHHH ! I have had old 70-18 that would pin hole like mad. Then, HEAT it( 350 degrees in electric oven) for an hour or so , then weld just great . I'm NOT saying it'd pass R-T , but sure welded good. I have a rod oven, almost new , but quickly stopped using it . It was costing me about 50 dollars a month , for electricity, that was 15 years ago. Electricity costs way more ,now here in nor-cal.

[David R]

Originally Posted by Craig in Denver

Anyone:
From a hobby perspective, is there any reason I wouldn't rather have 7014 lying around, since it doesn't care about humidity and moisture? Wouldn't it have a longer shelf life? I understand that 7018 is low hydrogen, my question is 'So what'? There is no AWS, pressure vessels or WPS in my world. My 'fer instance' would be general 3/16" and 1/4" metal fab, like Duane's work bench and the 'things' Farmersamm makes.

TIA,
Craig

I like the way 7018 welds out of position or flat. It just works for me. I used it with out an oven for years. I carry a new un opened can in the truck. If I need it, I open it and use the rest for "other stuff".

I tried 6013 and 7014 with some luck, but I still prefer the 7018.

Some jobs, I take the oven on the truck.

I don't keep my rod ovens plugged in all the time, just when I am going to need it. One for 3/32 and one for 1/8" or 5/32 depending on what I need. It they have been hot in the oven and left there with it shut and unplugged, it still welds fine.

It only needs to be totally dry for X ray quality work which I do little of.

David

[farmersamm]

Duane- Probably not as bad as heating propane cylinders in Winter to keep the pressure up when thawing lines to stock tank. Or, another favorite of mine..... heating the grease gun in the oven so that the grease flows in Winter.(I did melt the hose once though)

One of these days there'll be a big hole in the ground where my house was

[Tractapac]

Originally Posted by denrep

With the potential manganese concerns out there, probably better use a dedicated oven.

Next thing is temperature.
Isn't maintenance of properly stored electrodes about 300 degrees; but effective dry-out and recondition requires around 800 degrees?

I can't remember the exact figures but I looked at a Lincoln packet recently and recall that the dry out / recon temp was beyond the household oven. You'd almost need a pottery kiln. I also assume you're talking in degrees F?

When I served my apprenticeship, it was common to have a hotbox to keep electrodes in and it was a sheetmetal cabinet with a recessed base with a light bulb in it. Hot air from the bulb convected up to the base of the cabinet but the base was open to atmosphere, so it never got to combustible temperature for the rod wrappers. There's a book called "Farhenheit 451" which from memory is the temperature at which paper will spontaneously combust.

My theory about the old hotboxes was that keeping the rods at maybe 80 or 90 degrees or thereabouts was probably enough to limit or stop absorption of moisture. Of course in those days (the '70s) setting and maintaining a temperature in something like that wasn't as easy as it is with today's temperature controllers. Hence the light bulb although a little "down and dirty" was quite effective. We'd have had guys welding steam and ammonia lines and there weren't any fancy electrode ovens, nor were there any weld failures. Only eternal arguments between our two "ticketed" welders of different political leanings. Forever snitching on each other, much to our entertainment.

[Tractapac]

Originally Posted by duaneb55

I guess that's a reasonable question. I've heard of others using the kitchen oven to bake rods and never heard any negative comments and not sure there's any type of chemical release when heated as there would be while welding with it in the fumes we're exposed to.

A dedicated used toaster oven is a good alternative to say the least to prevent holding up dinner though.

Convert the Cat to horizontal config and bingo you'll have a six compartment stick dryer!

[farmersamm]

Originally Posted by Tractapac

Convert the Cat to horizontal config and bingo you'll have a six compartment stick dryer!

Lets hope that block doesn't come to such a dismal end

[duaneb55]

Man! This thread really took off while I stepped away.

Judy made it to the A/P and is "leavin' on a jet plane" for most of the week as I type just in from the shop after burning the very first rods ever that the Syncrowave 180SD has seen as the electrode lead was still tied up and no evidence of having been used (absolutely no rod 'tracks' in the jaws).

I must say I am more than pleased with how the little girl (180 SD) stick welds even though I seriously can't remember the last time I had an electrode holder in my hand. I just haven't done any stick welding for upwards of 15 years with the exception of a little Certainium on the front casting of our oil fired boiler back in upstate NY - which I'm guessing was probably 12 years ago.

Anyway, here are this afternoon's details and results:

- 1/4" scrap 3" x 2" angle ground clean 1/2" minimum back from weld joint
- 1/8" 7018 of unknown brand (and I ain't EVEN gonna tell you where it was or for how long it was there before I got it or there will be multiple simultainious coronaries all across the www!)
- 7018 cooked in 450 degree oven for 1-1/2 hours until done indicator popped - oh wait... that was the turkey last week.
- 180 SD settings


Vertical down with and without slag - which needs alot of work. Inconsistant speed and a bit unsteady. Vertical up needs... well, we'll leave that for another day.




Horizontal drag with and without




Now to burn a couple dozen more rods to try and get the 'feel' back, work harder on vertical down and give vertical up - that I never was any good at - another try.

[duaneb55]

Originally Posted by farmersamm

Duane- Probably not as bad as heating propane cylinders in Winter to keep the pressure up when thawing lines to stock tank. Or, another favorite of mine..... heating the grease gun in the oven so that the grease flows in Winter.(I did melt the hose once though)

One of these days there'll be a big hole in the ground where my house was

I've seen guys build fires under their OTR truck to warm the oil and burn up air lines and wiring and have heard of guys doing the same under their farm tractors for the same reason. You know how farmers are. Personally I preferred the more controlled space heater approach.

Originally Posted by Tractapac

There's a book called "Farhenheit 451"...

How can that be Gordon? They burned up all the books!

[denrep]

Originally Posted by farmersamm

...Or, another favorite of mine..... heating the grease gun in the oven the grease flows in Winter.(I did melt the hose once though)

To warm the grease gun, hang it in an idling engine's exhaust stack.

Originally Posted by Tractapac

...nor were there any weld failures. Only eternal arguments between our two "ticketed" welders of different political leanings. Forever snitching on each other, much to our entertainment.

From a supervisory standpoint, you're really better off with two adversaries than two buddies.

[gordfraser]

didnt think 7018 was recomended for vert down!
6010 is i think and 7014 might be

[tresi]

Originally Posted by welderShane

Is that safe in an oven that you cook your food in? I put a few 7018s in my toaster oven before tho!!

It's completely safe. Ask either one of my son's 2 heads.

[duaneb55]

Originally Posted by tresi

It's completely safe. Ask either one of my son's 2 heads.

Decided to delete my reply. Nothing bad, just had a thought. Sorry.

[Tractapac]

Originally Posted by denrep

From a supervisory standpoint, you're really better off with two adversaries than two buddies.

As long as you could interrupt them long enough to get some work done.

One guy was a paid up Comm Party guy and he never used a chipping hammer, all welds were treated with a cold chisel at a very set predetermined pace. The other guy was the dead opposite and had been working as a car sales guy and was real gung ho and go getter. They fought tooth and nail and at Certificate time were forever spying on how the other one was handling and doing his test plates. Both good welders and the ex car guy would teach you but the other one held all his secrets.

[Craig in Denver]

David R:
Thanks, Craig

[duaneb55]

Originally Posted by gordfraser

didnt think 7018 was recomended for vert down!
6010 is i think and 7014 might be

Recommended?

My Miller 'cheat sheet' calculator lists it as all position.

[David R]

All interesting stuff. Duane, don't bother with the vert down and 7018. Learn how to weld up.......Like a big boy.....

Since the title of the thread is 7018, Its not made for vert down.

Once you get the hang of it, its easy with all processes. Maybe if you do some vert up with tig, then go for the stick......

Nice looking machine there.

Perhaps if you took some of that rod that was NOT dried and used it to show us all that it really does still work....... I would appreciate it.

David