Fork lift question...

[Hammack_Welding]

Guys, I picked up a TCM FG25 5000 lbs forklift today on a deal. (You haul it out of the warehouse and you can have it type deal) It has carb problems, and you have to play with the gas to keep it running, but no oil leaks, and everything works. The compression is tight in the engine which is a good thing as well. The origianlly overhauled the carb, and it hasn't been right since so I am planning to just replace it with a new unit. I can't seem to find out any info about it as far as engine size, etc.... I know it is a 4cyl nissan gas engine, but that's it. I'm gonna replace the carb, as well as plugs, wires, cap an rotor, and probably go ahead and change all of the fluids. Anyone have any idea where I can find out some info and specifications on this lift? I'm not new to lift trucks, but it is the first I have owned. So is there is anything else that I should check out while I'm working on it? Thanks, Jackson

[Burnit]

Jackson, have you thought about at least going through the carb? Gasket, jets etc.....

I got a riding lawnmower when I was 15 in a similar deal, Lowes dropped off a spanking new lawn tractor at my friends parents house, it didn't run right. So they brought out another one and the old one sat there for a year.

I ended up getting it for free to get it out of there. When I started to play with it I found that the jet in the carb was missing

Maybe the guy who worked on it missed something.

[Hammack_Welding]

Well, that is kind of what I am thinking. I've never been much of a carb man myself so I don't really know if all of the things were there or not. I'm gonna pull it off and take it to the local forklift dealer, and let him go thru it and see what it looks like. It's possible that it can be rebuilt and be fine. Just have to see what they tell me.

[David R]

GASOLINE? Just rebuild it. Prolly a plugged jet or just plain ol dirt. A new carb wil cost you an arm and a leg. Brakes work?

Just so you know, TCM stands for made by Three Chinese Mechanics

It should be a good machine. Pneumatic tires?

Send the carb to me. PM for address. No charge.

Its one of those things you always went with out, but once you have it and it breaks down, you won't know what to do!

David

[Hammack_Welding]

David, I was hoping you would see this post as I remember you use to work on lifts if I recall correctly. It does have the pneumatic wheels, and overall is in suprisingly good shape. It has about 3000 hours on it, but there is no leaks of any sort, and the oil was clean, and had a relatively new filter on it so I know it has been serviced. According to the previous owner the lift started running rough, and they tinkered with it and had a so called mechanic work on it a bit, but it never did get straightened out. He supposedly rebuilt the carb, but it never did fix the problem. I ran a compression test on it and the engine is tight with no bad cyliners and no leak down issues. In my opinion it acted like it could have been electrical as much as it was fuel. I'm gonna put on some new wires plugs filters etc over the weekend and check the timing, and I'll get a few pics of it and post back with what I find. Thanks for the advice, and I may take you up on that over if I can't get it straightened out myself.

[Magnetic Mechanic]

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[denrep]

Originally Posted by Hammack_Welding

...According to the previous owner the lift started running rough, and they tinkered with it and had a so called mechanic work on it a bit, but it never did get straightened out. He supposedly rebuilt the carb, but it never did fix the problem. I ran a compression test on it and the engine is tight with no bad cyliners and no leak down issues....

Vacuum leak?
Bad fuel?

Good Luck

[David R]

They taught me in college

"Most of your carburetor problems are in the distributor"

But now the carb has been messed with, so who knows.

David

[lugweld]

Hammack,

If you need parts...try this number. 8008366075. I used to work for them. They are in Nashville TN but are distributors on several varieties of lifts. They are part of the TN farmer's CoOp. They have and stilll do deal with TCM. But they are distributors and sell to many different people. They are easy to deal with. Ask for Mark Posey. He handles most of the lifts. If you need a good used one, he is the man to call as well. I almost bought a toyota diesel from him for 3k...that had come from one of the Co_OP stores...fleet maintained. They can ship...no problem.

[Hammack_Welding]

Originally Posted by David R

They taught me in college

"Most of your carburetor problems are in the distributor"

But now the carb has been messed with, so who knows.

David

David, I think you are correct! I played with it today, and it wants to backfire out of the carb when trying to crank so I'm guessing the timing is off. Any idea where I can find out what motor is in this thing?

[steve45]

Or a stuck valve...

[Hammack_Welding]

Originally Posted by steve45

Or a stuck valve...

I thought about that, but wouldn't it show when i ran the compression test?

[Dualie]

On forklifts most of the time if its low hours and gas powered and having carb problems I just convert them to propane. If you have a propane tank that's usually the most expensive part of the conversion.

I have an old baker York towable forklift 8000lbs at 30' its a beast. A carb rebuild kit was $400 bucks and a propane conversion was $375 without the tank. that was a NO BRAINER.

[Hammack_Welding]

Ok, progress today, I put new plugs wires etc... attempted to crank, and nothing. After getting frustrated I pulled the plugs cleaned them again. (They were wet) Turned it over a few times, and then sprayed a quick shot of starting fluid in each cylinder, and reinstalled the plugs. Floored the pedal choked it and hit the key and it busted off, and ran like a top for about 30 seconds. After that, back to the same old spell of turning over, and sputtering every so often. I removed the carb, and discovered that it was a "Nikki" carb which I am not familiar with. It almost looks like a modified two barrel to run as a single barrel. different than anything I have seen before. After inspecting the carb I can see parts that "may" have been rebuilt but also areas that don;t look like they have been separated or cleaned so I am honestly not sure the carb was rebuilt properly or at all for that matter. This got me to thinking of my options:
1. Have this carb rebuilt and hope it works, not knowing if it's the original, complete, or will even work considering it's been "fooled" with previously.
2. Possibly buy another new or rebuilt carb and install it?
3. Convert to propane as Dualie had suggested.
My camera was destroyed a month or so ago, and I haven't replaced it yet, but I will try to borrow one and get some pics of it all. The good news is that I know it will run so, but not sure of what my best option at this point is. The carb had a governer mechanism under the carb, so replacing with a difference carb could open up another set of problems. If I do replace the carb can I remove the governer, and install a simple one barrel carb and run the engine that way? It seems like that would be alot less complicated. anyway any advice or opinions is appreciated. Thanks ~Jackson

[David R]

Originally Posted by Hammack_Welding

David, I think you are correct! I played with it today, and it wants to backfire out of the carb when trying to crank so I'm guessing the timing is off. Any idea where I can find out what motor is in this thing?

Firing order is 1 & 3 opposite of each other and same for 2&4. Once you get it running and warm, floor it, hold the tilt against full relief and turn the dist till it runs the fastest. Power timing by the seat of the pants. It works every time as long as the governor is working.

It has electronic ignition right?

Make sure there are no pecker tracks in the dist cap first.

Backfire out the carb could be too lean or incorrect timing, WEAK spark, OLD fuel, or bad dist cap.
Spark should be blue and jump a minimum of 1/4"

A compression test would have shown a stuck valve.

David

[denrep]

Originally Posted by David R

Firing order is 1 & 3 opposite of each other and same for 2&4. . .

David R - You probably meant a firing order of 1342, which would group 1&4 and 2&3 as opposites.

[Hammack_Welding]

David it has doesn't have the electronic ignition I am pretty sure. It has the old cylindrical coil. I grounded each plug once I pulled them, and turned it over to check for fire. They all sparked, but they didn't seem like it was as strong as it should have been. I honestly didn't think about checking points and gap etc... after it cranked up, and ran smooth with the clean plugs and ether I assumed the carb was the culprit. now I'm thinking I might need to go back and check the ignition.

[Dualie]

UM what about the fuel pump? someone might have put an electric fuel pump from a fuel injected motor on it. might be overwhelming the floats in the carb. something to check.

[Dualie]

Oh and if you need parts try these guys

Parts R Parts

PO Box 702, Oakley, CA 94561

Office: 925.679.9396
Fax: 925.679.9199
Mobile: 925.899.6528

info@partsrpartsonline.com
www.partsrpartsonline.com

Best forklift parts place on earth. Prices are reasonable and they KNOW WHAT THEIR DOING. Not many parts houses do when it comes to forklifts.

[Hammack_Welding]

Originally Posted by Dualie

UM what about the fuel pump? someone might have put an electric fuel pump from a fuel injected motor on it. might be overwhelming the floats in the carb. something to check.

Dualie, the pump is working great. It's a block mounted mechanical pump. I took the line (steel line) loose from the carb and turned the engine over, and gas shot out every where. So the pump IS working fine, lol Thanks for the help guys ~Jackson

[David R]

Originally Posted by denrep

David R - You probably meant a firing order of 1342, which would group 1&4 and 2&3 as opposites.

Denrep you are right!

Sorry Jackson

David

[denrep]

Hammack - Pump some fuel into a clear glass jar and look for separation or filming - signs of contamination.

Put some fuel on your finger and then blow on it; good fresh gasoline evaporates quickly and completely, without leaving residue or any droplets.


Good Luck

David R - By the way, if you split most common firing orders in half, you have the cylinders that share common piston positions, "paired-up" above and below each other. This can be handy to know for troubleshooting.

Such as:
13
42

Good Luck

[William McCormick Jr]

Originally Posted by Hammack_Welding

Guys, I picked up a TCM FG25 5000 lbs forklift today on a deal. (You haul it out of the warehouse and you can have it type deal) It has carb problems, and you have to play with the gas to keep it running, but no oil leaks, and everything works. The compression is tight in the engine which is a good thing as well. The origianlly overhauled the carb, and it hasn't been right since so I am planning to just replace it with a new unit. I can't seem to find out any info about it as far as engine size, etc.... I know it is a 4cyl nissan gas engine, but that's it. I'm gonna replace the carb, as well as plugs, wires, cap an rotor, and probably go ahead and change all of the fluids. Anyone have any idea where I can find out some info and specifications on this lift? I'm not new to lift trucks, but it is the first I have owned. So is there is anything else that I should check out while I'm working on it? Thanks, Jackson

Fan belt, and battery and or battery terminals. Those are the most annoying problems you can have.

Sincerely,


William McCormick

[Hammack_Welding]

Well, I had some spare time this afternoon, so I opened up the the gas tank and steam cleaned it out, and replaced all of the fuel lines. Put some fresh gas in the tank, and bumped it over a time or two and the fuel pump is pumping good clean gas. I took the carb part of the way down to see if I could see any dirt trash in it anywhere and everything seemed to be clean. I even removed the jets and shot a little air thru it to make sure it was nothing in the way of any passages or jets. The only thing that got my attention was the float. The didn't look like it was set to allow enough fuel into the bowl. At this point I did not change it as it is simple to get to on this carb even if installed on the engine. Put everything back together, and tried it again with the same results as before. After attempting to crank it for a bit I pulled the plugs and they were wet. The only time I could get the engine to crank is when i clean plugs and gave a shot of ether in the cylinders before reinstalling them and cranking it. Then after 30 seconds or so it dies and back to the original scenario. So if the plugs are getting wet then that tells me I am getting gas to the cylinders. I checked spark again today, and all four plugs are firing, but the spark doesn't appear to be as bright as or stong as I feel it should be. Tomorrow I have a new coil, and all new ignition parts and will see if it helps. I'm starting to wonder if the ignition is weak, thus causing the problem. As it won't crank even with starting fluid sprayed in the carb unless I remove the plugs and clean them. I have found a propane conversion kit, but I'm hesitant on buying it now because I don't want to shell out the cash for it, and still have the same issues. If the new ignition parts don;t help then my mechanic is going to come take a look at it for me this weekend as I have a job next week that I could really use it on.

[Magnetic Mechanic]

Make sure it does not have the wrong plugs in it.