Esab

[van37725]

Hi All, new here. I picked up a lightly used "heliwelder 251 AC/DC plus". I would appreciate any pros/cons on this machine. I haven't set it up yet, but will soon.
Thanks
Van

[soutthpaw]

Found an interesting image of the PT27 torch for my PCM875 that actually lists the orifice diameters for the torch.
30 amp=.037"
50-70 amp=.047"
80 amp=.052"
Gouging Nozzle= .093 which translates to 3/32". the reason this is useful is that I have been saving all my used tips to drill them out and make gouging nozzles but never knew the correct size to make the hole until now.


My other question is that it says the 30 amp tip has a stand off built onto the nozzle for drag cutting. So am I supposed to only drag cut with the 30 amp nozzle? I only have the chicom 30 amp nozzles I never even use. mostly just use the 50-70 nozzles because i am changing material thickness so often...
The cheapo China 30 amp does not have any built in stand off. I have done drag fine with the 50amp though I stand off most of the time as I find drag does not work well on used/ dirty metal.

[soutthpaw]

So I checked my chicom tips and they were undersized so just drilled them out to .047. Also drilled out a few for gouging to 3/32. I did find a few of the 30 amp Esab tips in my box. The stand off is only about 1/16 inch.

[Brand X]

Originally Posted by soutthpaw

So I checked my chicom tips and they were undersized so just drilled them out to .047. Also drilled out a few for gouging to 3/32. I did find a few of the 30 amp Esab tips in my box. The stand off is only about 1/16 inch.

Did you try them as is????

By the way, the new Esab PT-37-38 torches are killer. The design of the tips is very interesting, in that they have a step built into them. They are as good as anything I have used. PM-85 comes to mind.. It's speed is awesome, along with consumable life, edge angularity. Here is a 90 amp cut on 3/4 steel.. Build quality on the machine is top notch.. (Poland)

[soutthpaw]

Originally Posted by Brand X

Did you try them as is????

By the way, the new Esab PT-37-38 torches are killer. The design of the tips is very interesting, in that they have a step built into them. They are as good as anything I have used. PM-85 comes to mind.. It's speed is awesome, along with consumable life, edge angularity. Here is a 90 amp cut on 3/4 steel.. Build quality on the machine is top notch.. (Poland)

What machine did you cut those with? cuts look great. Wonder if its the machine or the torch? did you upgrade the torch or is it the one you got with the machine? unfortunately they do not list that torch as compatible with my machine. so I am guessing there are some machine improvments/ changes specific to that torch...

[Brand X]

Originally Posted by soutthpaw

What machine did you cut those with? cuts look great. Wonder if its the machine or the torch? did you upgrade the torch or is it the one you got with the machine? unfortunately they do not list that torch as compatible with my machine. so I am guessing there are some machine improvments/ changes specific to that torch...

Thermal one torch would be a good retro to your Esab.

Just a plasma machine upgrade (Powercut 1600), and PT-37 torch machine torch off of Ebay. Came with a PT-38 hand torch.

[Brand X]

Yes,
they changed the torch on the Powercut round top models. That was high freq like yours but it still would not work with the older machines. (PT-32) My PT 37/38 have a drawn-arc start, so totally different. Did a few more cuts tonight Plasma marked the center, and punched it out. 40 amps 3/8 steel Old consumables and they cut real straight. I could of had a Hypertherm, but this thing is flat out awesome. My friend has a 85 on his table, and it's a nice machine too. Just like this setup better for me. It impresses the heck out of me.

[akdan747]

Im looking for parts for my esab pcm-875 if you have an old plasma cutter (any esab) that don't work let me know. Also I might be able to use parts from a welder.

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2

[twelvexs]

Hi all,

Have an Linde MigMaster 225 that I bought supposedly 'working' at an auction...wasn't allowed to plug it in-an 'as is' deal...I know, should have passed, but got a deal.

Plugged it in and the fan comes on and there is a slight 'ticking' that increases in frequency as the wire speed dial is turned up. Pulling the trigger on the gun does nothing-no wire feed, feed motor does not engage, wire not energized, no gas solenoid clicking-nothing. Took all the covers off and it's clean and there's no loose wires.

Is it worth diving in and fixing it? Cut my losses and sell for parts? I have the manual and haven't dug in yet, but maybe someone has had the same experience. I have read that it could be a good machine if it works...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks....

[akdan747]

Call Esab for technical support. Hopefully you wont have to buy parts as Esab seems very proud of their parts.

[Tucka]

Has anyone here used a ESAB MobileMaster IV CVCC wire feeder?

I was thinking about getting one to use with my ESAB 252 Heliarc at work- found a deal on a brand new in the box unit- hoping to get some feedback here-

[Brand X]

Originally Posted by Tucka

Has anyone here used a ESAB MobileMaster IV CVCC wire feeder?

I was thinking about getting one to use with my ESAB 252 Heliarc at work- found a deal on a brand new in the box unit- hoping to get some feedback here-

I had one, came with either a euro ot Tweco front end. Same type drive as a MM-260/300.
You could spray-arc with the 252 Seemed to work fine, although I prefer the low-end cv use of my LN-25 pro. Won't matter running spray on CC with the 252, It's auto sense CC-CV, and if the price is right grab it..

[ccawgc]

Be careful when removing the cover on the power cut 1600. There is a screen glued to the inside of the cover. They do come loose. I have had to glue them back on.
Just don't try to power them up with out air connected or consumables removed from the torch. They will display an error 13 and the older units will lock up. You have to remove the cover and switch a switch on the power pcb on power up unit wait a minute then turn off. set switch back and put cover back on. The current made machines they fixed that and all you have to do is power down then back on.
Very pricey to fix.

[Brand X]

I found out about the screens. Mine is the latest model unit. It will not show a error with the PT-37 torch installed, and after it boots up. Meaning you can change out consumables without turning the machine off. I find that much nicer, then having to turn a Hypertherm or Thermal off to change or check the consumables. I believe it's the same with the PT-38 torch. Just have to be Careful in what you are doing. I know my friend did a bunch on hand cutting with his Hypertherm 85 with his 50 ft hand torch, and it was a PITA to run back to the machine to change out consumables. It worked great otherwise. This was a old barge, and covered with a 50 year old coal tar paint. Thermal 82 had all sorts of issues cutting through the same stuff. Although really about as powerful as a 65 hypertherm.

[soutthpaw]

Originally Posted by twelvexs

Hi all,

Have an Linde MigMaster 225 that I bought supposedly 'working' at an auction...wasn't allowed to plug it in-an 'as is' deal...I know, should have passed, but got a deal.

Plugged it in and the fan comes on and there is a slight 'ticking' that increases in frequency as the wire speed dial is turned up. Pulling the trigger on the gun does nothing-no wire feed, feed motor does not engage, wire not energized, no gas solenoid clicking-nothing. Took all the covers off and it's clean and there's no loose wires.

Is it worth diving in and fixing it? Cut my losses and sell for parts? I have the manual and haven't dug in yet, but maybe someone has had the same experience. I have read that it could be a good machine if it works...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks....

I had the wire feed control board go bad mon my migmaster 250... had same symptoms. Got it repaired by innovat corp for about $100 inc shipping.. worked good after that. On the 250 its a small pc board mounted vertically on the center support sheet metal panel

[wwunkypeet]

I bid on two esabs on an online auction hoping to get one. Turns out I won both. Oops.

I'm now the proud owner of an esab 350mpi and an esab svi300. both came with linde/esab mig 31 wire feeders. I was hoping to use one of these multiprocess machines to learn steel mig, stick, dc tig and use a mig spoolgun to learn aluminum for now. (I took an adult ed welding class this summer--7nights over 2 months.)

I also ended up with two miller 30a spoolguns with w-24 controllers in another auction--same bid/win situation.

Anyhoo, Does anyone have an opinion on which welder I should keep; can one or both be set up to use the miller spoolgun? The manuals for both the power supplies are not clear about what voltage they supply out to the accessory wire feeder/spoolgun.

I assume the miller controllers- w24(acdc?) and w115(ac?) are used to convert a power supply's accessory voltage to the proper one for the spoolgun? If this is so, what is the input and output for each controller- do they just run the spool motor or is there a contactor for welding voltage too? the spoolmatic 30a manual had no schematic.

Should I email miller or esab about this mixed marriage?

I noted other posts mentioning justarc.com and mouser.com as sources for plugs etc--are these ok sources for making/getting a conversion harness?

Finally, the esabs came only with the mig whips on the wire feeders, I have already made a new ground clamp and stinger. Will either power supply need a special tig connector. My spoolgun auction win also included about a dozen miller mig guns and several tig torches with thumb switches. Is a tig a tig or does each manufacturer have a proprietary male/female connection?

thanks for any input

pete

[Brand X]

Originally Posted by wwunkypeet

I bid on two esabs on an online auction hoping to get one. Turns out I won both. Oops.

I'm now the proud owner of an esab 350mpi and an esab svi300. both came with linde/esab mig 31 wire feeders. I was hoping to use one of these multiprocess machines to learn steel mig, stick, dc tig and use a mig spoolgun to learn aluminum for now. (I took an adult ed welding class this summer--7nights over 2 months.)

I also ended up with two miller 30a spoolguns with w-24 controllers in another auction--same bid/win situation.

Anyhoo, Does anyone have an opinion on which welder I should keep; can one or both be set up to use the miller spoolgun? The manuals for both the power supplies are not clear about what voltage they supply out to the accessory wire feeder/spoolgun.

I assume the miller controllers- w24(acdc?) and w115(ac?) are used to convert a power supply's accessory voltage to the proper one for the spoolgun? If this is so, what is the input and output for each controller- do they just run the spool motor or is there a contactor for welding voltage too? the spoolmatic 30a manual had no schematic.

Should I email miller or esab about this mixed marriage?

I noted other posts mentioning justarc.com and mouser.com as sources for plugs etc--are these ok sources for making/getting a conversion harness?

Finally, the esabs came only with the mig whips on the wire feeders, I have already made a new ground clamp and stinger. Will either power supply need a special tig connector. My spoolgun auction win also included about a dozen miller mig guns and several tig torches with thumb switches. Is a tig a tig or does each manufacturer have a proprietary male/female connection?

thanks for any input

pete

Keep the 350 MPI. It was designed to be more reliable. Esab's own design, and also changed the the way is sucks air/dirt through the machine. It welds great, and as nice as anything out now. Probably better then anything out now,in arc quality. One of the loudest fans on any welder. Way louder then a Migmaster 250. Those scream too. At least it shuts off once, and awhile. The MPI supports pulse, and you can upgrade the tig with a high voltage tig box. Gives you pre flow/post flow, and non-contact arc starting. Killer stainless unit if you understand the slope settings, even a stainless slope setting. That's not the setting I am taking about though..

Standard dinse cable on your tig torch. Just use a two piece hose. cable. one for gas to your regulator .Can use lift-arc without a foot-pedal, because there is a setting for both. Great stick welder too.


42 volt, and 120 volts on the 19 pin for the feeder. The 14 pin on the Esab is for your tig foot control/etc..

[Scott Young]

Scott, I had to turn my 250 off to read what you posted about them being loud. I never have to worry if the fan is working. Use to use a Miller that had a fan on demand that was a dream, but always worried that it wouldn't come on when needed. We were welding miles of .045 dual shield with it pushing the machine harder than it was really meant to go.

[Brand X]

Originally Posted by Scott Young

Scott, I had to turn my 250 off to read what you posted about them being loud. I never have to worry if the fan is working. Use to use a Miller that had a fan on demand that was a dream, but always worried that it wouldn't come on when needed. We were welding miles of .045 dual shield with it pushing the machine harder than it was really meant to go.

Many Esab 250 machines over the years were pushed way harder then they should of been. Top voltage tap, and large wire production welding, It will kill them at some point, but not before the machine has made them lots of money..

[wearetheromans85]

my caddy 160 not workin right. it's like not getting enough voltage. the weld just balls up and spatters everywhere. wire speed/voltage knobs don't seem to work or change anything. It worked perfect the night before then the next day it went to ****. anyone had this problem?

[Bobbes]

Look to the relais on the PC board. Maybe the contact are burned

[ScubaSteve]

I wonder what you folks might think about the SVI 450i? I've got a line on one, and can't find a whole lot of opinions on it in the various welding forums. I'm flirting with getting a MIG for general hobby use....already have a Maxstar 150 STH stick/TIG....so I don't really NEED a mig...but we all know how that goes...

I figure I could either get a Millermatic 211...OR for the same price....a very gently used 450i with Mig 35 feeder. I don't really have a need for welding aluminum, but I can see the need for doing thin sheet for bodywork, maybe some basic fab work with square tube, etc...possibly some stainless.

I would really like the ability to do TIG and stick on this unit...possibly sell the Maxstar and have an all-in-one unit with industrial capability/reliability.

BUT, I understand you can't even use the stick function without a controller? Any opinions on the performance of these units? I have no doubt a unit like this can handle big stuff, but will it provide excellent control at the low end (like a Millermatic)?

[bad67z]

I worked as a territory manager (salesmen) for ESAB from 2001 to 2010. I sold a number of these units, as for reliability and functionality the Svi 450i was one of the most trouble free multi process pieces of industrial equipment that we or any other manufacturer produce in that time period. And there are still quite a number of these units in operation.

Fortunately by the time this model was manufactured the industry had worked most of the bugs out of inverter power sources. As for the Mig 35 feeder, it may not be the the most appealing to the eye feeder, but you could tie the thing to your ball hitch and drag it around for a mile or two hook it back up and it would be willing to bet it would feed wire for another 20 years. I sold many new yellow powersources only to have the end user not buy a new feeder but put the old green L-Tec Mig-35 feeder on the new unit. They are the same unit, the green feeders were made from the late 70's thru the mid 90's and many are still running today.

If you do decide to buy the unit and are in need of a FC-5B foot pedal, I think I have a new one in the box. If you have any questions let me know, if your the same ScubaSteve from the HBT forum you can pm me there also.

[ScubaSteve]

LOL! My reputation precedes me

Thanks for the info!

[ScubaSteve]

Well....decided to go with the 450i. It seems to be in really good condition...relatively gentle use in a prototyping shop, and the seller bought it at auction when the employer switched over to all Miller equipment. Seller mentioned that it had recently been serviced (basic cleaning inside/out, inspection). I got to try it out on a 30A circuit with FCAW...it welded okay, plenty of power, but I need to play with the settings. I suspect it will improve with solid wire and gas. I've really only ever done stick and TIG, so MIG is new to me.

It's missing a ground clamp though and did not come with any other accesories except for a Binzel Alpha 2 MIG Gun. The seller seemed to be reluctant to let the gun go, but finally went with it. I got it for $1100, which I feel was pretty reasonable. It was this or a new Millermatic 211, and I feel like this is a whole lot more machine for the money. But, I need to put some money into it for a stinger and TIG torch, as well as a tank and regulator for C25 (only have argon). I think I'll put it on a 50A ckt.

Seriously considering selling my Maxstar 150 STH Stick/TIG since this is a multiprocess machine. I know the Maxstar is a handy little machine, but I don't weld enough to have multiple machines (actually have an O/A rig too), and could use the cash to accessorize this welder.

Here's some pics!