Home built tubing roller.

[krisk1233]

Hello everybody! I am new to the site and here is a project I have been working on for the past few months. It is coming along pretty well, but I am having trouble keeping the middle roller, which applies pressure, to stay straight when pressure is applied. The guide tollerances are pretty tight and I am not exactly sure how to fix this problem. any suggestions appreciated. I will try to get a closer picture of exactly what I am talking about. thanks everyone!

[dave powelson]

You say having trouble keeping the middle roller, which applies pressure, to stay straight when pressure is applied.

?by 'staying straight', do you mean the shaft is bending?

?or is it moving out of the plane of the 2 drive rolls?

It appears that proportionately the shaft size is small, relative to
the size of the rolls and the amount of unsupported length you have.

[krisk1233]

Yes, it is moving out of plane with the two drive rolls. the shafts are 1 inch and the machine is 7 inches wide. the movement comes from the rear take-up bearing.

[MarkBall2]

Are your front/rear bearings connected solid? I'm thinking there is enough tolerance in the bearings the misalignment is exaggerated at the roller.

If you have the means, make a bearing support piece that's solid that the shaft can run through. That should take the flex out of the upper bearing. Either that or create something where you can have tapered roller bearings similar to a spindle/front wheel bearings on a car.

[aevald]

Hello krisk1233, I believe you are having issues with your design because the load isn't centered on the pinch roll shaft. This will be very difficult to describe in words, a sketch is probably the best way to "show" you what I am speaking of. in lieu of that, you are working on one end of the shaft so you have a load being applied to the topside of the bearing nearest to the top roll and the load on the other end of the shaft is being applied to the opposite side or the underside of that bearing. Having an adjuster screw on the topside of the bearing nearest to the top roll and another adjuster screw on the underside of the bearing on the far side of the shaft would allow for the load to be supported evenly. A little cumbersome from an adjustment standpoint, yet a functional fix that might provide the alignment that you are looking for. A little something to consider, best regards, Allan

[Broccoli1]

1. rebuild with all the dies centered in the Middle of the Housing.

http://www.hawkebender.com/


2. rebuild with tension Screw attached right behind the Center die.

Take a look at this one

[krisk1233]

I am hoping that when I move the adjusting screw as far over towards the front, it will fix the problem/ thanks for all the help

[Boostinjdm]

It won't, those are self aligning bearings blocks you got there. I have a very easy and proven solution to your problem. Just got to sketch it up....

[Boostinjdm]

OK, my sketching abilities suck tonight so we'll go with paint...
You need to make a threaded collar that fits very close where the GREEN is. Then you make a threaded shaft (Red Arrow) that goes through a welded nut at the top (like your current setup) and into the threaded collar. Once they are threaded together, you insert a roll pin where the black dot is. Now do the same for the other side. This collar setup will allow the adjuster closest to the roller to push down, and the one farthest from the roller to pull up. If you get everything really close fitting, you could even tie the two adjustment shafts together with a chain.

I have seen that tensioning setup personally with that style bearing holder on a much larger scale at my old job.

[Boostinjdm]

I just noticed you got two threads running. That makes it kinda hard to follow along....

[krisk1233]

yea it was my first post, I didn't think it worked the first time. I am a little confused on what you are saying. If I understand, then I will have two acme threaded rods sticking out the top? Not exactly sure what you mean.

[Boostinjdm]

Originally Posted by krisk1233

then I will have two acme threaded rods sticking out the top?

Yes, that is the only way to do it with the current parts and arrangement.

[jackalope]

I know I replied to this thread but cannot see anything I posted!?!? WTH

[jackalope]

Krisk,

You need to delete one of these threads! I found the other. VERY difficult to follow with two identical open threads!

[krisk1233]

Hey everybody, sorry for the confusion of the two threads going at the same time!! New to the site and can someone tell me how to delete one? I went to my threads and posts and I didn't see anywhere that said delete post? thanks again everyone for helping! I am a college student and am figuring a lot of this by trial and error and by talking to everyone.

[tapwelder]

When I built my roller, I had the same problem on heavy hardway bending. I added another tension screw at the rear to keep the roller level. Pretty simple.

As Boostin described.

Is that a cast iron bearing housing you will need to weld to?

Good luck

Nice build.

[Boostinjdm]

Originally Posted by tapwelder

Is that a cast iron bearing housing you will need to weld to?
.

Weld where? The threaded bushing I was describing with the roll pin through it allows the threaded shaft to rotate within the cast housing. I have to go pick up some steel today, If they have one of the pieces of equipment I got the idea from in the shop for a refurb, maybe I can steel some pics.

[metalmeltr]

Originally Posted by Boostinjdm

OK, my sketching abilities suck tonight so we'll go with paint...
You need to make a threaded collar that fits very close where the GREEN is. Then you make a threaded shaft (Red Arrow) that goes through a welded nut at the top (like your current setup) and into the threaded collar. Once they are threaded together, you insert a roll pin where the black dot is. Now do the same for the other side. This collar setup will allow the adjuster closest to the roller to push down, and the one farthest from the roller to pull up. If you get everything really close fitting, you could even tie the two adjustment shafts together with a chain.

I have seen that tensioning setup personally with that style bearing holder on a much larger scale at my old job.

or use right and left hand thread rod and link it together with two gears

[hawkebender]

You Could Add a second set of rolls to the chain driven side and roll two pipes at one time? Makes sense but only if you need two pieces! Would make a great production machine! Your center slide bearing surface is rather short if you made the machine a bit taller and made the sliding surface full length this might help. Also Heat treatment of parts will help keep things from flexing under load. Any questions email me.

brian@hawkebender.com