Beginning Welder!

[Groomy]

Hi there! I recently purchased a Harbor Freight Easy Mig 100 flux core welder ($75) as a cheap way to start learning how to weld for a couple little projects and the fun of learning! I've dinked around with it a few times on a few pieces of scrap 1/8" material, laying down beads, and joining a couple pieces together which has been cool! But here's what I'm looking for!

Whatever I do, I like to make sure I understand it as best as is possible, so I can do as good of a job as is possible. That saying, I'm looking for some direction that could give me some assurance as to whether or not, the work I'm doing, is proper or sufficient!

I'm not sure when I'm done laying the weld, if what I've done is "acceptable" or "proper"! I don't like doing crappy work, and I'd like to know where I'm headed and what the goals are for making a great weld, both functionally and visually! I'm sure there are some generaly wleding basics that I need to learn, but can anyone reccomend any good books or videos, maybe geared towards flux core. In the future I do want to get a better machine, maybe a couple, so any info would be great! I'm looking for a local class to see if anythings available.

Also, my welder I believe is a 90 amp MAX, on the high setting, and I think somewhere around 80 on low (the only two options besides wire feed speed). Is it possible to work on material like sheet metal on auto bodys, or is it to hot? And if not, what would be an inexpensive option (for the near future) for a welder that could accompish that?

And lastly, where's the best places to look for practice material? Do metal recyclers also sell scrap?

Thanks for any and all help!

[DSW]

Best way to learn is to take a real class. Check out local tech schools or comunity colleges for nite classes. There's only so much you can learn by reading. You will learn much faster with someone to correct you as you go. Most places the consumables and steel you use will be worth the class money, the instruction is a bonus. Having your own machine to practice with will help. Spend time at home practiceing, spend the time in class asking questions and learning rather than just running practice beads.


FC isn't the best for sheet metal and auto body. You really want a machine that uses solid wire and gas. I'd go with a bigger machine, 220v if at all posible. 110V is limited to sheetmetal at best. You can turn down a bigger machine but with a small one your stuck if you need more power .

[weldbead]

you have come to the right place. post ssome fotos. try to break the weld you made to see if you got any penetration.
enjoy.

[Groomy]

Thanks for the reply! Yeah... I figured that taking a class would be the best route! When I find one, I'll probably be the most annoying student asking a trillion questions! Having professional feedback would be great in helping me understand what I'm doing! For example, knowing what speed to set the feed rate at, what power setting for different applications, exactly how deep should a penatration be, how I'm holding the gun, how fast I'm moving the gun, what size wire for which application, and probably a trillion other questions!

Another question... When I'm done laying a bead, I notice that all around the bead, there's kind of a brown residue and it actually seems to interfere with the wire when it touches the metal, it seems to make the arc a little more inconsistant as I'm moving along. Is that normal, or is there way to deal with that? And as a side note, I upgraded from the stock HF wire to the Lincoln Innershied .30!

And lastly, any great books or videos to start really getting an idea of what's going on (for before I get into a class)?

Thanks again!

[annunaki]

I just joined today.
I live in White Springs, Florida just north of Lake City (I75 ex 427)
Don't know how to weld, but want to.
I inherited two chop saws- Craftsman 14"x1" 3.5 HP (1995-6?).
Makita 2412N.
I have a 220V outside outlet in my driveway.

So I'd appreciate some mentoring on which type is best and most reasonable
in flexibility, learning, and cost.

[DSW]

Hello annunaki. I dive right around that area in the springs some times.

Your question is a bit hard to answer. Each process has it's good and bad points making it good for some and bad for others. Cost is another tough thing. New vs used, how much power, what types on metals do you want to weld and how thick, all effect the price.

A quick over view.

Stick, good for heavy metals usually, 1/8" and up. Thin materials are tough for beginners. Steel predominantly, but you can weld some other metals with a lot of practice. Good for work outside. Simple AC or AC/DC machines are cheap and for most basic machines theres not much to go wrong so used are easy to test. If it welds, it works.

Mig / Flux core wire. Good all round machine. Can do thin or thick. Mig (uses shielding gas) is cleaner and works well for thin metals as well as thick. Isn't great for outside work as the breeze blows away the shielding gas. Fluxcore is messier, and good for outside work. Inside it's smoky so not the best. If you get a spoolgun attachment you can do alum. Alum requires more power than steel so you need to go big if you want to do alum. The 110v units are good for sheet metal up to 1/8". 220v units will do thin or thick and alum. wide range of prices.

Tig. Precise welds. Great for super thin metals up to medium thick metals. Can weld almost any metal with an AC/DC machine. You need an AC/DC machine to do alum. Steel and SS require DC. Metal needs to be really clean to do good welds. Most machines are more expensive than the other methods. You can stick weld with most Tig machines so you can do thick metals on this using stick above.




This is an investment. Get a good quality name brand. Get a bigger machine than you think you will need. Once you start you will find more and more things to weld and you usually will want the extra power. Look into the classes like stated above. There's a ton of threads on all this info. Do some searches and read, and read, and read...

[MoonRise]

Originally Posted by Groomy

Another question... When I'm done laying a bead, I notice that all around the bead, there's kind of a brown residue and it actually seems to interfere with the wire when it touches the metal, it seems to make the arc a little more inconsistant as I'm moving along. Is that normal, or is there way to deal with that? And as a side note, I upgraded from the stock HF wire to the Lincoln Innershied .30!

Groomy,

That brown residue is the 'soot' from the flux (in the flux-core wire).

Yes, if you try to weld over the top of some flux residue the arc will be inconsistent, the same as if you try to weld over any other sort of contaminant.

Remember, you weld METAL not paint or rust or oil or flux residue or other crud. Clean the metal, and you get better welds.

For more info about welding, you can just go to the 'big' guys' websites and read TONS.

www.lincolnelectric.com

www.millerwelds.com

www.esabna.com (surf through to the "Education" section, and then the ESAB University section especially)

[lilredex]

I would second the advise to seek out some instruction, it is always easier to grab on to the techniques that way. But failing that, Miller has an excellent DVD that they ship with their wire feed welders. I started off with a similar type wire feed but after a lot of frustration, I added "gas" to it..........totally different welder. But with 90 Amps you are not really going to do much other than sheet metal.

In addition to that "Dud" I have a Miller 135 and it will do a decent job on 1/4" material if you take your time and crank it up. For the heavier stuff there is always my Lincoln 225 buzz box.

[annunaki]

Thanks DSW !

[allthumbz]

I am also looking to begin welding- I know absolutely nothing about it, and searched the forum and found this thread.

Is there a book or books I can read to get an idea of the underlying principles and terminology?

Thanks.


Nelson
(LI, NY)

[prop-doctor]

go to millers site and buy the student pack 25 of the best money you can spend
you might want to start your own thread rather than bring a 2 yr old thread back