The Ultimate Fabrication Table

[TigWiz]

Well I've been using subpar welding surfaces ever since I started at age 13, and have decided to build my Ultimate Fabrication Table!!!! I have a list of features that I would like to incorporate into the table, but would like a few opinions about certain areas.

Here's the list:
Table dimension of 8' long x 3' deep x 3' tall
Adjustable Base Feet
Two under table storage shelves
C-clamp storage rod
Pedal storage box w/cable holder
Fixed ground to TIG machine
Two accessory receivers at each end of the table
A single low profile drawer for small tool/welding accessories
Under mounted 120v outlets
Under mount grinder storage box
Filler Rod Storage rack
Adjustable lighting

As you might be able to tell, this will be a stationary table and I will be placing it against a wall. My current dilemma is which frame design to go with. I've built tables out of 2x2 tubing and angle iron, but I've also seen a bunch of different materials being used by all of you guys. I will not be salvaging any material for free, and will purchase the steel from the local yard so just about anything is available. I'm just looking for input from you guys that have built your own. What did you use and what would you have done differently.

[oxy moron]

i built two in 8 months. first one was my first project, second one was just finished last weekend.

things i learned
draw it out (cad or paper) dont rely on the "design as you build" method
measure twice then check the drawing, measure twice more, repeat, then cut.
drawing it out will allow you to have a material list, which makes ordering material easy, and you wont have to run back to the metal yard for stuff.

and the most important advice in my opinion, if you're tired, stop. dont be in a hurry to finish, this is a table you'll be using for a long time.

what do you make? 8x3 is a very wide table.
good call on the 36" height. mine is 41" high so i dont have to bend over so much.

[CheneyKid]

Posibly a removable vice.A trailer hitch reciever mounted vertically and a 2" square tube welded to the vice to easily be slipped in and out for more room.

[DSW]

Frame design will have alot to do with the top you decide to go with. 1/4" doesn't require as heavy of steel, but you need more support to prevent warping. Lightweight tube won't carry the weight of 1" + steel so that has to be done different. Warping will be less of an issue there.

I agree 3' wide seems a bit much against a wall. The back half of the table won't be much good for welding, only support for larger projects. Thats about the right width for a free standing table for me so I can work from both sides. Also I find deep wall mounted tables are hard to access for storage and cleaning. Stuff gets pushed to the back out of easy reach and forgotten or never gets cleaned because you have to crawl under the table.

If what you want is an occasional wider table there are several other possibilities. Roller or jack stands to support the item in the room while the rest is on the bench. Receivers with sliding tube supports. A friend of mine had the sides of his free standing table done this way. He had a long length of 3" tube that ran down both long sides of his bench. The tube "rail" was connected to 2" slide arms that fit in receivers under the table and could be locked. All this was set so the tops were flush with the table. He could slide the sides out about 2 feet from the table to support items he was working on. One side was split into 2 lengths, the other split into 3 sections. He had receivers on the ends that would hold his vise or if he pulled the side rails, would take them also to lengthen the table. A screw jack under the rail would support heavy items and he had a small removable adjustable leg that he could use to get the sides exact to the top.

[200mphbusa]

You might want to put one of these one and use for various attachments, sort'a like the receiver concept:

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=31180

[Brainfarth]

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=26227
That's one that I made over last winter. The customer ended up mounting storage under it along with electrical outlets. I dont have any pictures of it with the new additions.

[Freelance Fabber]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-table.html

check out this table. Its mind expanding aparantly.

Its also $12 000

[TigWiz]

Well I've taken what everybody has had to say and this is what I've come up with thus far.
The table dimensions are 72" x 30" x 36" tall with a 1/2" table top. The frame itself is used
as the receiver for the tool adapters, and I've incorporated a rotating function into the tool
adapter. The area lined with expanded steel is for fast access tool storage (my grinder and
porter), the box to the lower right is for pedal storage, and the drawer on the left had side is
30x24x4 and will be used for mics tools and welding accs. Let me know what you think.
There is still more to come.

[SpyGuy]

I like it so far ... you're doing a nice job of designing it. (Google SketchUp?) May I ask how you plan on doing the turntables, and locking them in place for where you want to grind/clamp/etc.?

2x2 should be good on the framework. It'll also make doing the receivers easier.

Suggestion: receivers pointed to either side of table to accept additional accessories, such as extra supports for long projects. Putting that third receiver in the middle of the table is a good idea, too.

Another suggestion: One of your original "must-haves" was a storage bar for your c-clamps. Any way to make a second "ladder" drawer-pull underneath that drawer, and hang your c-clamps from it? Pull it out to find the clamp you want, push it back under to get it out of the way.



Hey guys, maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see a place for the mini-fridge incorporated in the design. The trailer-hitch BBQ would fit in any of those three front openings easily, though .....

[Jack Olsen]

One thought: you're going to want the edges to overhang for the sake of both clamping a ground easily, and (more importantly) using clamps while you're working. Opening up a C clamp to fit around the square tubing every time will get old in a hurry.

Also, make sure the tool adapter locks down tight and strong. If you ever want to use a bender in your fabrication, you'll want a rigid (but rotatable) base.

[TigWiz]

SpyGuy, I'm going to be locking the rotating table with a large pin. The shaft that rotates will have multiple holes drilled through it to allow the pin to completely pass through. I'll add it to the design by my next posting. I also REALLY like your idea about having the c-clamp in a pull away rack of sorts underneath the primary drawer. I haven't been able to figure out a good solution, so thank you.

Jack, thanks for the response. I will primarily be working on the right side of the table and there is 7 inches of clear space directly in front of where I will be working to easily clamp things down. I'll just have to deal without overhangs at other points due to my space limitations. The table will also be permanently grounded to my primary welder, but I'm going to add a grounding tab into the design somewhere else for other equipment. I'm still working on how i'm going to secure the tool adapters to the table. I'll probably end up trying a few different options.

Ohh yea, the table is made of 2.5"x2.5"x1/4" square tubing, and I'm designing this in solidworks.

[Jack Olsen]

I'm not sure I understand the size limitation part. Can't you just make the frame smaller, so that the top has overhang?

Is that a drawer or just a catch down below the left side? Either way, you might want to think about dropping it down 8 inches, so -- again -- you can clamp bigger pieces to the whole table. Maybe you'll only be working on small stuff, but I'd guess that sooner or later you'll have something you want to clamp to each end of the table.

Another possibility is to concentrate less on the frame and more on the top. I bought a second-hand heavy duty cabinet (1,900 pound capacity, per shelf), and bolted a 1" thick piece of steel onto it. It was sturdy and quick -- although you've got to shop around for a good price on the steel.



Even with a 1/2" thick piece, you're not looking at something that's going to bend much. A 30x60 piece is going to be over 250 pounds.

[TigWiz]

I'm going to draw up a table with overhang on it and see what I can do with it. I build turbo manifolds for a number
of different companies which then sell them as their own product, so the table is designed with that in mind. My
work area is 8' x 16' and after all of my equipment i'm left with just enough room for a table of this size. This will
be my only workable surface, which is why i've built it as large as possible. I'll get some pictures up of my garage
soon.

Btw, that is a drawer, I just didn't mock up any hardware for it

All input is welcome!

[mccolld]

One thing I would add to your table is I would add shelves where you have the blacksplash.

[CHainline]

One item I would really look at is the height of the table. I am tall, and kitchen countertops, sinks, the bar where I moonlight as a bartender, etc. are a pain in the backside for me, literally! When I built a worksurface, it is great for me, but someone short would have problems looking over the top.

Look at some of the things you do now, try putting a few blocks under the surface and raise it up, or try something lower before you actually build it. Also, look at how far everything is from your touch, nothing worse than having to reach and bend for coomon items.

[dougspair]

.........Jesse James.....Hmmm......well.... back in 1980....when Mr. James wasn't even riding motorcycles yet.....I had a friend with a bike/frame shop.... that showed me his Motorcycle Frame Straightening Table he'd made...2" plate...4X6 feet...Blanchard ground one side to make it flat...then he'd drilled and tapped about 700 holes (by hand)....5/8"-11...on 3 inch centers both ways....for clamping the stuff to the table....3X3X1/4" square tube for legs and under frame...with a diagonal brace to support the center in case of any real heavy stuff on there...
This guy was so good at his frame straightening work...that there were a couple BMW bike dealers that sent him all their frames, from the East Coast...(and this shop was here in N. California)......in addition to the locals with Harleys, and British stuff....the Japanese bikes were usually not economical to straighten back then....most often, insurance company 'totalled' them...but he'd buy a few from the insurance companies, and get 'spare' parts offa' them.
Some guys that raced, even sent him their brand new frames to get them straighter than the factory had made them....
I'd go with 1/2" at least if you can afford it....and if 8 feet long...a center support/leg...don't weld the top to the frame...it can cause distortion (and you might want to lift the top off later for some reason)....drill some holes, countersink and bolt to the frame underneath....
At the time I mentioned above, I had two tables...both 4X8 feet...one was 1 inch plate....for most of my work...the other was 2" plate, had been drilled in a few places for a heavy-wall tube bender, and a couple big vises....and also a smaller table....3/4" plate top...30"X60", with locking metal caster-wheels on it......for TIG work...I bought them all from a guy who had retired....from owning his own welding business for many years...
Both of these 4X8 tables had the tops just sitting on the base....the 1" plate weighed around 1250 pounds...it wasn't going anywhere...but the guy had drilled and tapped some holes on the bottom....pieces of angle bolted on under there to hold the tops from moving around....

[markfuga]

Looking good so far. Here's a thought: do you stand mostly while assembling the manifolds or sit? I've seen some of your work (which is outstanding) and I picture you sitting while tig'n to that level of detail. If sitting is a consideration I would move the wire mesh basket to under the drawer, opening up the right half of the table to be setup as a "sit down" work station. Another point, you mentioned building the frame out of 2.5" x 1/4", I would use 1/4" only on the top three braces for your receiver and use 1/8" for the rest. There will be no compromise on stability, it will save weight and money. The table will be plenty heavy enough with 1/8" tubing. If the left side of the table is accessible (not into a corner against the wall) I would also leave that side of the wire basket open so you can get to stuff from the front and side. I would make the basket the width of the drawer and length of the table front to back. You keep the tools you use often at the front, and tools you use less at the rear. Tools at the rear are accessible from the side, and tools at the front are accessed from the front while you work. Just some thoughts.

[riceburner]

There is a chance that when you are welding on something big and it requires rotating or positioning of parts that the back wall will get in the way.

[wesdavidson]

Great drawings, great frame design.
Didn't notice if you said you were using an aluminum top, I would really advise it. Also don't be afraid to drill and tap it as needed. Bolt down clamps really aid fine work.
I like a good bit of overhang, but then we used a lot of vise grip c clamps.
Your rendering looks good enough to be in a catalog.

[SpyGuy]

Okay ... kinda figured that's where you were going with it, just wanted to check and be sure ... Glad you liked my drawer-pull idea for the clamps, hope you use it..

These guys also brought up a few other interesting points to consider. Jack brought up the overhangs. What about setting the drawer, wire shelf, and that front support piece back a couple of inches under the front of the table? the drawer and shelf are till accessible, but now you have a 2" overhang to clamp to. The receiver tubes would obviously come all the way out to the edge of the table. Solid tool adaptors? Use a real receiver hitch tube from a truck - Harbor Freight sells the 2" for $ 13.00. (Btw, Jack, nice table setup.)

ChainLine and MarkFuga both mentioned height of table. What I would do were I to do this would be to build the table as a "stand-up" table, with enough height to be comfortable while standing, yet easily able to reach the backsplash. (Mccolld, good idea on the extra shelving in the back, but I think it would be better to have more surface space. Shelves and cabinets can always be hung at a decent height over the worksurface.) When you need to do "sitdown" work ... well, guess you may have to build yourself a shop stool as your next project! Mark's idea of relocating the wire mesh shelf is a good one, too - your clamp rack could be on that side, down by your leg. (For that matter, some companies have small filing cabinets that bolt on directly under the worksurface, and hang above the floor. might want to look into a used one for your drawer setup.)

Which side of the table will be against the wall, left or right? If the left side will be against the wall, then your placement of the drawer should be okay - if the right side, may want to consider 'flopping' the drawer and wire shelf so as to give you more room to work in while sitting. I'd put the drawer side of the table against the wall, maybe continue the backsplash around the corner on that side, as well..

Wes's idea of an aluminum top is good, but his idea of drilled/tapped holes for bolt-down clamps is even better. trying to clamp onto something in the middle of the table can be a real pain sometimes, and bolt-don clamps would help remedy this situation.

Anyway, here's what i would do with the table .. couple of different ideas:

[TigWiz]

Well I started with an entirely different frame, and I think I'm onto something here. I wanted to keep the same footprint for the frame while incorporating a lip around the tables surface (As recommended by everyone on here, thank you) and came up with this so far. There is still a lot to be done, but I wanted to show everybody what I've come up with at this point.



Next I'll be working on the drawers on the left hand side of the table followed by the Pull out C-clamp rack. What do you think?

[TigWiz]

In a hurry, but heres another one:

[Bob]

You might consider pipe for legs. Use the next larger size for collars to weld on swing out shelves and clamp racks.

[Jack Olsen]

That's pretty cool. In your shoes, I'd still reduce the footprint in the front. Keeping the legs flush with the front of the table means you're going to hit them with your feet -- it's it's set back, you won't. It doesn't matter so much on the sides or the back, but I recently tore my wood bench apart only to set the front of the legs further back.

On the other hand, if you keep them flush with the front (like a woodworking bench), you could use the legs as a base for clamping.

[TigWiz]

I don't think the legs will be a problem, I think this will help everybody envision my micro garage



Three Shelves full of Mics crap, a small toolbox, the workbench, and the TIG. On the far side is the garage door, and on the near side a door opening. I can barely breathe in there sometimes, but I have to make it work. Having this bench will REALLY help me be more productive.