Playing With Dualshield At Lunch

[welderShane]

It was lunch time at work so i decided to play with some esab 7100 dualshield. It runs like butter! Material was 1/2'' thick, .045 wire. Beveled the edges and ran 3 passes. I think i was around 25 or so volts and maybe 310 wire speed. I forget the actual settings. What do you guys think. I love this wire!

Front Side



Back Side

[transit]

Looks like it's all one casting.

[welderShane]

I forgot to mention this was a t- joint (Fillet) weld. I welded both sides.

[jinkzd]

I was running the exact same wire today AT LUNCH! Yours look nicer than mine though. Maybe some pics later so you can laugh.

[7bicks]

I love dual shield, everything except the price. LWS wants $145.00 for a #30 roll. Couple that with the 350MP I want and it gets spendy

[stamp]

[QUOTE=welderShane;361197] Beveled the edges and ran 3 passes.QUOTE]

not trying to sound like a smartarse here, but why would you bevel the edges on a fillet weld?

[MoonRise]

[quote=stamp;361626]

Originally Posted by welderShane

Beveled the edges and ran 3 passes.QUOTE]

not trying to sound like a smartarse here, but why would you bevel the edges on a fillet weld?

Pretty much the same reason you bevel prep any material before welding:

- filler access to the root;

- better weld penetration;

- complete weld penetration.

Cause unless you are running some gawd-awful monster amps, it would be darn tough to get a whole lot of (never mind getting complete) penetration on 1/2 inch thick plate unless you do some bevel prep.

[welderShane]

Stamp,
Moonrise answered it. To get good penetration. This is 1/2'' thick!

Shane

[jsfab]

I will submit, that two fillet welds, on either side of the thickness of a piece of steel, properly sized, is actually stronger than a similar beveled weld. Simply due to the distance between the welds, the leverage is in your favor.

Similarly to any "T" joint, using common structural shapes, tubing, I beam, H beam, etc. Beveling is important if you want to splice them together, otherwise, properly prepared and applied fillets are just as good, or better.

[stamp]

I agree fully jsfab, you shouldn't need to bevel the root on a fillet joint, it can also be counterproductive as it easier to get slag entrapment and harder to fuse the root, especially with larger electrodes.

for pressure fillet welds on plate I have always been taught to have no root gap whatsoever, and no bevel.
maybe try some destructive testing and compare the root fusion between bevelled and unbevelled runs.

[papabear]

jsfab & stamp, This was posted on another thread by Sandy. It made me a believer. http://weldingdesign.com/blodgett/wdf_78335/

[transit]

Shane, I’m green with envy, I can’t get my beads to flow out so nicely. I’ve juiced up my mig to the point that it will blow holes in 1/4 “ steel if I’m not careful. Penetration is great, heat marks show through to the opposite face and yet the bead will not flow as yours does. I’m beginning to think it’s the nature of the Hobart fabshield 21B, Dualshield is not suitable for my mig. What may I be missing?

[transit]

I think I have it figured out. Looking at the makeup of different brands of shelf shielding flux core wire, the manganese and aluminum content has a great influence on how well the bead flows. Manganese makes the bead “wetter” and aluminum makes the bead stiffer. Most gs-1 and -11 wires have low manganese content, 0.5-0.8 % and aluminum 1.0 – 2.0 %, compare that with ER-70S-6 with Mn 1.4 – 1.85 % and Al of 0%. Than I should be looking for a wire with a higher Mn and a low Al content, maybe a -8. Still the Hobart fabshield is a good wire.