ATV Walking Trailer ( 3D model )

[then3wguy]

I want to eventually make a Walking Trailer to pull behind my ATV like the ones previously displayed on this forum.

I decided to model one in 3D first to figure out the lengths, different options i could think up, extra accessories .. etc

I was curious to know if anyone thinks this is Over / Under Engineered. Safety is #1 of course and constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated.

The model is not finished, I still want to model
- Tie down locations
- Gas can holder
- Walls

And not sure what i should use for the walls, expanded metal? wood?

I was wondering if anyone had more ideas?

Again, constructive criticism is greatly appreciated and wanted, so feel free to make a comment

Ty for viewing


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[then3wguy]

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[badtexasz28]

Interesting setup for the wheels, I like it. Makes for easy dumping if needed.

[trailgoose]

Looks great, I may have missed it but what size material are you going to use for the trailer? I see the weakest link of your design being the area where your axle goes into the trailer frame, thus I think i would oversize the axle diameter and the pipe that they are inserted into. Looks like you got a real good design and cant wait to see it done. Thanks, Nick

[MattK]

Looks pretty good. Just curious, why the walking tandem for an ATV trailer?

[then3wguy]

why the walking tandem for an ATV trailer?

here is the original post
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=35815

what size material are you going to use for the trailer?

Was going to use (all which are subject to change)

2x2x1/8 angle
1x1x1/8 square tube for the height
2x3x1/8 tube for the walking beam


Modeled to scale for
6 feet long
2 feet high

Haven't decided what to use for the axle/pipe yet

any opinions about expanded metal for the sides? or wood bolted on ... or i think i may tweak the design a little so sides are not totally needed

[Sandy]

Was going to use (all which are subject to change)

2x2x1/8 angle
1x1x1/8 square tube for the height
2x3x1/8 tube for the walking beam

Just an opinion but that 1x1x1/8th tube is sort of disproportionate. If that's the diretion I was going for the side risers and tacking I'd think of a thinner tubing and more of them. Maybe something in the .070 to .090 wall range.

[regularfella]

I like this design but I'd wonder if the tubing that holds the hitch assembly wouldn't be overly-stressed if it got shock loaded. ie: the weight of the loaded trailer bending the tubing just in front of the basket. You may consider gusseting that tube so it won"t bend very easily. An ATV will see many up/down transitions that would vertically stress on that tube. I've bent one this way and it wasn't fun. For all I know the tubing is plenty strong but this may be something to consider.

[MattK]

Originally Posted by then3wguy

here is the original post
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=35815

I get it now, sorry. I thought you were building it for pulling an ATV behind a pickup. I need to read closer next time.

[Brainfarth]

That is going to be a heavy one. Expanded looks great, but you will dent it up pretty easily.

[wannabe_welder]

I would think you'd want to consider adding gussets to the frame for your wheels on the underside, opposite where you bevel cut the tubing. That 90° attachment looks like it might be a weak spot when you start running into logs or other obstacles with your cart.

[then3wguy]

Originally Posted by regularfella

You may consider gusseting that tube so it won"t bend very easily.

Would you mean something like this


(original post by JDH239)
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=41977

And Thank you for all the comments and much appreciated. I think im going to re-evaluate the layout with these comments in mind

Ty, more ideas are welcomed

[jdh239]

Originally Posted by then3wguy

Would you mean something like this


(original post by JDH239)
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=41977

And Thank you for all the comments and much appreciated. I think im going to re-evaluate the layout with these comments in mind

Ty, more ideas are welcomed

LOL... I'm famous now (that is my cargo carrier with the gusseting). I feel honored you would use my pic as an example.

[benc199]

This is the trailer I built.

Length - 1.9m
Width - 1.2m
Upper body height 0.6m

Independent walking beam axle (picture of the axle is on the other atv trailer axle post)
Electric Tipper with 2 stage ram powered by 220 bar hydraulic pump, controlled by rocker switch on the ATV or remote handheld rocker switch.

The sides can all be removed and turned into a normal low sided trailer or a flat deck trailer.

It looks heavy and is a bit alright, but have tested it on rough terrain with a full load on it.

Will post more photos of it when I get a chance.

[Bigwheel]

very nice.................good job.

[UP BRETT]

Nice modeling, I've decided to build a walking beam axle for my atv trailer also. After seeing so many and thinking about the terrain I will be going over it will be best suited for my needs.

[Schimms]

What did you use to make those 3D images. I want to whip up my trailer idea as well.

[thumper_abn]

I've been lurking the better part of 6 months. I've picked up a wealth of info from you guys.
Now I have a question.
I was building the walking beam trailer in the drawings(with some minor mods to better suit my needs).Everything was going fine right up the the wheel selection. I got a set of wheels/tires at Tractor supply that I thought would work. Turns out I'm not happy with them. No big deal. I was able to pick up a full set of wheels and tires for a polaris sportsman really cheap. I couldn't pass them up they were so cheap.
Now the problem...I'm going to scrap the walking axle for now and just use the fronts from the polaris. How do I make the polaris wheels fit any of theoff the shelf hub/spindle sets or even a complete axle?
I was thinking of maybe a doughnut shaped adapter plate. Put 4 holes to match the 6" 4 bolt pattern of the wheel and then 1 large hole in the center to allow for the hub center and 4 holes to allow for the hub bolt pattern. Maybe something in 3/8 steel.
How far off am I?
I'll listen to any reasonable advise. Fire away and thanks in advance.

[ironmangq]

I know a guy who built a few of these things, He puts this gooseneck type hitch on it so you dont lose ground clearance around the draw bar. Really nice for going through the woods if you have fallen trees around.

[BHere]

Tandems ride so well!
I had a tiny truck once that used a torsion bar for the rear suspension. It worked - much to my amazement.
I wonder if you could use either one or two (for independent suspension) torsion bars as axles (or attached otherways) to allow the walking beam to transfer the weight to the rear axle when the front dips into a hole. On the other hand you can get 4 torsion axles but for a cost and I don't see how those would let the two axles on the same side transfer weight.

I'm sure you'll have a grand time making a trailer that does just what you want.

It is neat that since you've modeled the design on something other than a napkin that you can share and discuss it with the board and sift through all the opinions to integrate the ones that appeal to you. I really should take the time to learn Google's Sketch Up(free) or SolidWorks ($) but everything comes down to seat time.

[akpolaris]

Picture #8 displays the shaft attaching the bar that the tires are attached to. How is that shaft secured in / on the base of the trailer. Does this have a bearing or bushing in there?

[ThorsHammer]

From the post on this thread and the original, it appears to be done in a couple different ways. some just use DOM tube in DOM tube with a solid rod inside the inner tube. They add a grease zirk to allow for lubrication and debri prevention.

Others use trailer spindles, bearings, etc.

Budget is always a factor. but if you read the posts noone has said that the DOM way is bad. just simpler.

KISS is a theory to live by if you ask me. saves $ and less to go wrong.

[Hardware]

Bumping this thread as I'm looking to start buying materials for my ATV trailer.

The SketchUp drawings above indicate angle iron. I have more than enough old bedframe angle but I guess the consensus is that it may be too brittle for dynamic loads???

I also priced some components at Princess Auto (I guess Canada's version of Harbour Freight)

The 18.5" trailer turf tire assemblies I want to use are $114.99 each (there'd be four needed).

The stub axles are $79.99 each (also x 4).

So, before we even start on the steel or any other hardware, with tax in, we're at $881.30.

I may consider just doing a Red River cart style ATV trailer, two hubs, two large diameter ATV tires and call it a day. That would run me $519.73 before buying steel.

[ThorsHammer]

I would look into the ones with sealed bearings already. that way all you need to do is get solid rod for the axle. you'll save yourself $300 easily. Post a link for the tires/wheel combo you're looking at.

I did a quick google search for trailer axle hubs and found many online suppliers of spindles in the $20-$30 range. thats some savings right there.

I also found this http://goodoutdoors.theshoppe.com/tires_and_axles.html. It's a reduction in cost from what you've got if either way you go.

[ThorsHammer]

I also found this. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...bber-_-Grounds Maintenance>Lawn + Garden Utility Trailers-_-250820

law of superior tunage, you'll never be able to buy everything for 1 trailer and get it for less than it would cost to buy one. simply because he who can buy more tonage, pays less. Personally, I'd probably buy that one and modify it to do what you want it to. you'll save money in the long run.