Installing gates.

[TPnTX]

When I put my double gates up I payed close attention to details in an effort to align the two gates perfectly. I used heavy duty barrell hinges. I have a 4" pipe posts with a 4" pipe overhead. I think the posts are 14" tall.

I even welded the gates together and hoisted them into place as one unit. After the hinges where welded on I gut them apart. Still after a while the gates have settled or something because the are about 1/4 inch off. I have a solid bar that slides like a dead bolt and it no longer fits.

The only thing I can attribute it too is the posts settleing.


So now I have my 1st job installing gates. and here they are

[TPnTX]

The customer had these made and they arrived yesterday. I couldn't move them so I didn't get good pics.

Problems, Questions and Concerns.

1) Transporting and lifting. I always had in my mind useing a forklift or possibly the tractor to set these gates. Now that I see them I have no upper member sufficient enough to use. The only thing I can think of now is man power.

2) Posts. I have another thread somewhere that addresses this but I ask it again. The customer wants single stand alone posts. He said if I need to I can attach to a pillar that will be erected in front of the post. So I'm thinking 4" square post and as mentioned early a real deep big hole with a bunch of concrete.

Definately more to come...

[tapwelder]

Use a fork lift. Attach straps to the sides at the middle, around the lock box and middle hinge. You'll be able to push the bottom of the gate to upright position. Use a third strap at the bottom to tie it upright. Make sure the top doesn't bend inward (Close).

I really like to use ratcheting tie-downs. Place properly you will be able to use the ratcheting action to level and square the gate for welding to the hinges.

I wouldn't suggest to man-handle it. Though I have done a couple of 500 lb gate installations alone--much more efficient and safer with help.

[Joker11]

Is it just me or did this customer pick a gate that looks like @$$?

[Sandy]

2) Posts. I have another thread somewhere that addresses this but I ask it again. The customer wants single stand alone posts. He said if I need to I can attach to a pillar that will be erected in front of the post. So I'm thinking 4" square post and as mentioned early a real deep big hole with a bunch of concrete.

A lot will depend on the type of soil you have and annual moisture and frost. Things like that. Basically what you have is leverage at the tip of the gate against what ever weight or anchoring you have at the post. Depth is good. What you get out of that is contact with undisturbed soil at a depth below heavy moisture penetration. Concrete in this case doesn't do much in the weight arena, just reaches out to fill that void between the post and the soil. Takes compaction out of the equation, and it does increase the effective diameter of the bearing surface. It's probably the most reasonable solution most of the time.

The other method would be just like you were going to set this on top of the ground===big flat base. Big footprint and lots of weight. Backhoe work, clean up and the price of concrete would have to be considered here. But in sandy soil or loamy soil or extremely wet conditions it's the better choice. Keep in mind that when pouring pads there cannot be any loose soil at all in the bottom of the pit. It's going to settle by weight alone if it isn't on something solid. Of course it has to be below frost line if the weather is cold enough.

[Sandy]

1) Transporting and lifting. I always had in my mind useing a forklift or possibly the tractor to set these gates. Now that I see them I have no upper member sufficient enough to use. The only thing I can think of now is man power.

Looks like they were transported once without real problems but I think just for peace of mind I'd sandwich them between a couple of 2x4's bolted through to each other. Use blocks for spacers where you bolt through. Sort of like providing your own crate.

[TPnTX]

transport may be a strong word. I only have to get them to the entry from the barn/shop. About 300' feet concrete drive.

Mounting the gates to the posts. with 4 hinges I'm thinking just to get it mounted I'll only weld a top and a bottom of the other halves. Then once in place let the gate down on the hinges just enough and then weld on the other two.

Any got any tricks or advice on lining up the two gates. Like I said on mine I welded them together and hoisted them up as a single gate then cut them apart. I'm trying to work through some steps and make a plan.

[rvannatta]

Originally Posted by TPnTX

transport may be a strong word. I only have to get them to the entry from the barn/shop. About 300' feet concrete drive.

Mounting the gates to the posts. with 4 hinges I'm thinking just to get it mounted I'll only weld a top and a bottom of the other halves. Then once in place let the gate down on the hinges just enough and then weld on the other two.

Any got any tricks or advice on lining up the two gates. Like I said on mine I welded them together and hoisted them up as a single gate then cut them apart. I'm trying to work through some steps and make a plan.

I think you are trying to hard. Heavy gates will ALWAYS shift and settle.
A mandatory design feature is an adjustment to compensate for that.

Either the hinges on the gate need to be made with a slip joint, or the hinges
on the post needs to be a long bolt that goes all the way through the post in such a way that it can be adjusted to 'trim' the gates.

[TPnTX]

Im sorry but I've never seen anything that appeared adjustable on any gate of this type. Typically on high end gates you see a barrell hinge welded to both the post and the gate.

This gate has four hinges (female) welded to it already. So they would all have to be adjustable.

[Sandy]

TPnTX are you going to have the luxury of havng this driveway closed off while you set the posts with the gate in a mock-up position or are you going to have to set the posts first then hang the gates??

Being nosey.

[TEK]

QUOTE=TPnTX Mounting the gates to the posts. with 4 hinges I'm thinking just to get it mounted I'll only weld a top and a bottom of the other halves. ------------I would not weld the lower hinge sect. to the post. Weld the top one at the right height and then shim the bottom barrel until the gate hangs straight. That way, all the forces are in effect at time of set-up.If your hangin off the front of a sq. post, its easy, the weight of the gate keeps the shim in place. If your on the side, you have to block or jack the end of the gate till the post@ center is plump. There is enough play in the hinges to allow that and then you get it right.

[TPnTX]

Sandy I'll set the posts well in advance. There is going to be a lot of concrete that will have to set.

TEK, thats good. The hinge will be perpendicular to gate so a shim should work fine.

[rvannatta]

Originally Posted by TPnTX

Im sorry but I've never seen anything that appeared adjustable on any gate of this type. Typically on high end gates you see a barrell hinge welded to both the post and the gate.

This gate has four hinges (female) welded to it already. So they would all have to be adjustable.

The alternative that is common around here is an arch of some type over the top which will hold the posts a afixed distance apart.

We deal with this issue with 'security gates' in the forest industry where the effort is to make a gate strong enough that some dude with a 4x4 and winch will have to 'work for it' to get through. they usually weigh a ton or so and are made out of multiple railroad irons or something similar. to latch and lock they have to swing precisely.

the post is usually a piece of well casing set in concrete about 6 feet deep in an augered hole for if it is an excavation done with a backhoe, the entire excavation is filled with about half a truckload of redi-mix, but still they make a way to adjust them.