7018 Questions

[stevenstilts]

I've been using 7018 for about two weeks, mostly for practice, but have welded a few projects with it, and I have a question.

Striking an arc with it seems pretty easy and making a good looking bead is also not too much of a problem with some practice. The problem I'm having is that when I stop welding and then try to start again, I have to file the end of the rod to strike an arc. It seems that a film of flux forms a shinny film over the electrode and, unless I re-strike when the rod is still hot, I can't get the arc to start unless I file the end.

Is this normal for this type of the rod or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks; Steve

[Lanse]

Its completely normal... 7018s are hard to restrike, it just has to do with whats in the flux. I find its faster and way easier to hit the end of the rod on the tabletop and knock that piece off, but this can also take off a chunk of flux..

How do you like the rod?? Got any pics??

[tanglediver]

It always does that. I know if you shake off the last drip when you pull away, some of that goes away, otherwise you have to break the slag off the tip. That's what it is, slag.

[Big65mopar]

I'm working with 5/32 7018M on fillet T and now going to flat butt welds. Restriking is easy so long as I the raw flux not extend past the end of the rod where the slag has formed a thing layer. If that happens I just give it a brush with a finger ( glove on ofcourse ) and scratch the rod tip once.

[weldbead]

i pinch it between my gloved left thumb and forefinger and enough slag breaks off to allow contact to start the arc....

[MadMax31]

I drag em on the concrete floor, quick whip, like Im striking a match.
If Im up in the air, welding pipe, as soon as Im done with said weld, I rub the tip between fore-finger and thumb, that limits the slag that solidifes on tip. Tears up gloves, but makes re-starts easier.

[stevenstilts]

Originally Posted by Lanse

Its completely normal... 7018s are hard to restrike, it just has to do with whats in the flux. I find its faster and way easier to hit the end of the rod on the tabletop and knock that piece off, but this can also take off a chunk of flux..

How do you like the rod?? Got any pics??

I like the rod, other than it's hard to re-strike, it makes a pretty bead and is easy to weld with. I don't have any pictures right now of my 7018 welds; I'll try to post some soon.

[stevenstilts]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I've been keeping a file handy and filing off the tip, but some of the other suggestions are worth a try. I'll post some pictures of my welds soon as I get a chance.

[RaptorDuner]

I also pinch the the flux off with my thumb & finger but I usually tap the end of the rod with the side of my slag hammer. Doesn't take much force to get rid of the slag layer left on the tip of the electrode and with the flux pinched off, it doesn't break off chunks.

[Stick-man]

I use a my file. A couple of quick drags and it's gone. And I hardly ever chip the good flux.

[CEP]

Steven I take it as you're using your PowerArc 200? If so what brand of 7018 are you using?
I'm a big fan of ESAB's Atom Arc 7018, and my Dynasty loves it too. But I found my PowerArc 200 really likes Lincoln's Excalibur 7018, as does all my SA-200s.

It may not matter to you at your level, but doing critical work with 7018 you'd be better off not to break the flux off before starting. A better way is to start your weld 1 to 1 1/2 inches in front of your direction of travel, and quickly drag the rod back to the start point. This helps get the rod up to temperature, which helps with nicer tie ins, and will be less chance of getting porosity in the weld pool.

[stevenstilts]

Originally Posted by CEP

Steven I take it as you're using your PowerArc 200? If so what brand of 7018 are you using?
I'm a big fan of ESAB's Atom Arc 7018, and my Dynasty loves it too. But I found my PowerArc 200 really likes Lincoln's Excalibur 7018, as does all my SA-200s.

It may not matter to you at your level, but doing critical work with 7018 you'd be better off not to break the flux off before starting. A better way is to start your weld 1 to 1 1/2 inches in front of your direction of travel, and quickly drag the rod back to the start point. This helps get the rod up to temperature, which helps with nicer tie ins, and will be less chance of getting porosity in the weld pool.

Yes I'm using the PowerArc 200 and I'm using a brand called Techniweld I bought from a local welding/tool/work clothing store. I'm actually having fair luck with it, but I want to try another brand for my next batch. The Lowes sells Lincoln but it says 7018 AC; does that mean it's only for AC welders? As far as my "level" goes, I think that's the main factor.

[RaptorDuner]

I love the Excalibur but most of the time I use 3/32". Got used to using it when I was doing maintenance on boiler systems.

[GWD]

Originally Posted by stevenstilts

Yes I'm using the PowerArc 200 and I'm using a brand called Techniweld I bought from a local welding/tool/work clothing store. I'm actually having fair luck with it, but I want to try another brand for my next batch. The Lowes sells Lincoln but it says 7018 AC; does that mean it's only for AC welders? As far as my "level" goes, I think that's the main factor.

Lincoln 7018 AC runs just fine on the PowerArc 200. In fact, restarts are much more willing, at least with 3/32" @ 90-100A. Try a little of it and report back.

Excalibur runs fine and seems to put down lots of metal compared to other brands (1/8", 120+A). It wants to use a bit more amperage. Hobart 1/8" welds very well for a lot less money in the 7018 category.

[stevenstilts]

Originally Posted by GWD

Lincoln 7018 AC runs just fine on the PowerArc 200. In fact, restarts are much more willing, at least with 3/32" @ 90-100A. Try a little of it and report back.

Excalibur runs fine and seems to put down lots of metal compared to other brands (1/8", 120+A). It wants to use a bit more amperage. Hobart 1/8" welds very well for a lot less money in the 7018 category.

Will do and thanks for the advise.

[gwiley]

I have foudn the fastest way to handle this is to tap the end on the table to break the slag off before restriking - if good flux chips off I just strike the arc 1/2" into the weld then move back to the start point and weld over the restrike point.