Mill/Drill Basics

[Sandy]

My lil woman just bought me a Jet mill/drill. Where can I get info or research material on the basic operations and tooling?? I've got quite a few twist drills for my drill press but the milling part is all a mystery to me.

Thanks.

[Weldordie]

You might find some useful information here...

http://www.khake.com/page88.html

[Sandy]

Originally Posted by Weldordie

You might find some useful information here...

http://www.khake.com/page88.html

Sure looks like it has bunches . I'll be looking them over .

Thank ya sir.

[MAC702]

www.practicalmachinist.com

[gnm109]

Originally Posted by Sandy

My lil woman just bought me a Jet mill/drill. Where can I get info or research material on the basic operations and tooling?? I've got quite a few twist drills for my drill press but the milling part is all a mystery to me.

Thanks.

If it's like most, it has the R-8 (Bridgeport) taper to hold its tooling. You will be needing to get a set of R-8's to hold end mills and other similar tools. Harbor Freight used to sell those out of their showcases up near the cash registers. I was lucky and got an almost complete set including some of their larger ones a few years ago.

It is helpful if you can find a store that sells used millng machines and lathes. they generally have boxes of used tooling.

Happy Mill-Drilling.

[Ries]

Get yourself a catalog from MSC- www.mscdirect.com
Everything you ever could want for machining.
A good book is
Milling Machine Operations by Richard Kibbe, John Wiley and sons Publisher.
Or, the full on machining book by the same author,
Machine Tool Practices, also from John Wiley.
these are the textbooks for machine shop classes at tech schools, they cover everything, step by step, with lots of pictures.
They are pricey new, but often availabe used from abebooks.com
or amazon or ebay.

[Sandy]

It is helpful if you can find a store that sells used millng machines and lathes. they generally have boxes of used tooling.

What I've got is the Jet JMD-18 and it does say it is R-8 taper. It came with a face milling cutter, about 2 1/2 or 3" and the spindle it fits on. Not sure what I'll do with that yet . Looking at the online info they call for a set of collets so those must be the R-8's you're talking about. There's only one place in town and the boys at the counter are good but young and don't have a grip on all aspects of machining naturally.

Right off I need to get 230 vac to it to even fire it up to see it spin. Then I need to get a dolly under it to move it to it's final resting place. Cracked joist yesterday just lifting it up on the stand.

Thanks a bunch guys. Thanks for the link mac.

[SSBN727]

Hi Sandy!

The other day, I came across a website: www.technicalvideorental.com
This place will let you rent DVD's & video's for $9.99 a week on the topic you're referring to so, give it a look see and I know that you'll find what you need to learn in order to make that machine "SING" for ya! Btw, I do'nt have anything to do with them or any of their affiliates...

Respectfully,
SSBN727

[Tailshaft56]

I recommend Machine Shop Practice Vol I and II. Amazon has a good price.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/se...Go.x=14&Go.y=7

There are couple of magazines geared toward the hobbyist. Machinist Workshop and Home Shop Machinist.
Don't forget you will need a milling vise, hold down clamps, Various indicators and mikes. A surface plate and height guage are handy and the list goes on. Start checking pawn shops for Starrett stuff but be aware of new prices so you don't overpay. Grizzly and Enco carry decent import precision tools that are fine for most hobby work ( unless your planing on building a jet engine for an RC plane.) enough ramble. Enjoy

[gnm109]

Originally Posted by Sandy

What I've got is the Jet JMD-18 and it does say it is R-8 taper. It came with a face milling cutter, about 2 1/2 or 3" and the spindle it fits on. Not sure what I'll do with that yet . Looking at the online info they call for a set of collets so those must be the R-8's you're talking about. There's only one place in town and the boys at the counter are good but young and don't have a grip on all aspects of machining naturally.

Right off I need to get 230 vac to it to even fire it up to see it spin. Then I need to get a dolly under it to move it to it's final resting place. Cracked joist yesterday just lifting it up on the stand.

Thanks a bunch guys. Thanks for the link mac.

The R-8 is the design of the Bridgeport-style taper that fits your drive column. R-8 tapers are found on collets, end mill holders, drill chuck holders and many other tools.

My little Harbor Freight Mill Drill will run happily on 110 or 220. I just left it on 110 and it's fine.

[Sandy]

Don't forget you will need a milling vise, hold down clamps, Various indicators and mikes. A surface plate and height guage are handy and the list goes on. Start checking pawn shops for Starrett stuff but be aware of new prices so you don't overpay.

That's what scares me about this thing. It appears as the mill drill is only a home plate for big $'s worth of tools .

I don't have any plans for anything elaborate or where precision is required. Just some of the basics for myself.

[Sandy]

R-8 tapers are found on collets, end mill holders, drill chuck holders and many other tools.

Collets and end mill holders have the same basic function ??

Actually I should go do my homework before asking..

[gnm109]

Originally Posted by Sandy

Collets and end mill holders have the same basic function ??

Actually I should go do my homework before asking..

Hello again. A collet with an R-8 taper is shorter than an end mill holder and has a hole in the center. They come in all sizes. The business end, where you insert a cutting tool or drill, is slotted so that when it is inserted into the drive column on the milling machine or mill drill and tightened, it will squeeze the tool and hold it firmly.

Collets are used more commonly in lathes where they hold parts to be machined. I use them all the time on my Mill drill to hold drills and end mills however. They have the advantage of being a quick way to change tools.

On the other hand, the R-8 end mill holder has the same taper but does not have the slots. Instead, it has a solid end with a hole and either one or two socket head set screws to hold the cutting tool. Like collets, they also come in many sizes. They are a more heavy-duty way of holding end mills and so forth.

For a nice milling vise, check out the 5" one that Harbor Freight sells. They are about $100 when they have them. They weight about 60#! I got mine at a discount because it was a shop-worn demo model and the crank was missing. I made a crank and it's been working ever since. It's a copy of an American one. Those can cost $1,000 or more!!!!

You're right about tooling. It's an expense. Keep your eyes open at garage sales, used machine tool shops and you'll soon get a nice collection at reasonable prices. If you buy new American stuff, you'll soon go broke.

Hope this helps.

[zapster]

get a 48" table bridgeport with a proto-trax set up on it if you want to have lots of fun


j/k


...zap!

[ZachMN]

The indicator is the number one thing any machinist/toolmaker needs for setups on any machine or so I would recommend getting yourself an "Indicol" holder which will lock onto the spindle and an indicator something like an Interapid or Brown & Sharpe or a Fowler then learn how to sweep the head to see if everything is square. A good drill chuck, (preferably an Albrecht) that doesn't require a key is damn nice. An intro class at a vo-tech or a video would probably go a long way (never seen one but hope they would show you the basic concepts). Some of the previous posts mentioned websites that can get you this stuff.

Here's a link with pics for the Indicol:
https://www.emachinetool.com/tooling...512&Source=PTC