Cracked hydraulic valve

[Boostinjdm]

The last few days I've been chasing down leaks in my bender. I think I've got most of them cured now and ran into another problem. Upon reassembly I found one of the work ports cracked on this valve. A new valve will set me back about $100 which I don't have right now. So I am tempted to try and fix this thing.

The plan is to grind out the crack, braze it back shut, chase the threads and reinsert the fitting. Then fillet braze the fitting.

Think it will work? I have my doubts, but the money for a new valve is a few weeks off and I already have everything to attempt a repair. The valve is guarded and pointed toward the ground. So if it fails I'll only be out some time, some fluid, and some floor dry.

What do you think? The red line is where the crack is.

[LawsonWeldingLLC]

is it cast steel ?

[irish fixit]

My concern here is warping the bore for the spool. That's a super precision bore for the spool to work in and any change will cause the spool to bind. You will also need to get the o-rings out of the same bore before doing anything. I'd be tempted to try nickel rod instead of brazing just to keep the chance of warping down.

[LawsonWeldingLLC]

I was thinkin if its cast steel open it up with a cut off saw and tig weld it back together

[Boostinjdm]

O-rings and spool are already out. As close of a fit as it is, I'd think the spool would bind if the bore warps. I'll know that before installing it in the bender. I was planning on Tig brazing with sil bronze. I just got done grinding it out. I think I'll give it a whirl. It may end up in the scrap bin, but it's headed there anyway if I don't try. Did I mention I hate working on anything cast?

[LawsonWeldingLLC]

worse that can happen is u will be waitin a week or two to use your machine check here for a replacement www.surpluscenter.com

[tanglediver]

Yeah, burn it. Then stand well clear when you turn it on!

How do you clean all the oil out?

[LawsonWeldingLLC]

If the spool warps you might get away with honing it out before scrapping it, just a thought.

[Boostinjdm]

Originally Posted by LawsonWeldingLLC

worse that can happen is u will be waitin a week or two to use your machine check here for a replacement www.surpluscenter.com

That's where I found the replacement. They have ready made hoses cheap too.
The cost isn't that big of a deal, just have to wait for the $$$. I'm not sure I've even used the bender in the last year. Just got tired of the growing puddle underneath.

Got it brazed with enough reinforcement to cut some threads in it. I had so much fun I ground it out and did it again. Just have to wait for it to cool so I can chase the threads and braze the fitting in. Actually, I'll see if the spool still fits before I braze the fitting in. No point in finishing it if the spool gets stuck.

[Boostinjdm]

Spool still fit so I went ahead and snugged up the fitting, then brazed it. Done! I think....

[Boostinjdm]

Originally Posted by tanglediver

How do you clean all the oil out?

I'd tell ya, but I don't think we need several pages of people saying it isn't safe....

[NVW]

Originally Posted by Boostinjdm

I'd tell ya, but I don't think we need several pages of people saying it isn't safe....

It must involve heat

Looks like a nice repair.

[Johny5]

Maybe Uh Brake clean and a striker? just guessing LOL!!

[duaneb55]

Awesome fix not Jim and your cleaning secret is safe with me.

[Rbeckett]

Darn nice repair. Looks solid and well fused so it will probably last longer than the bender now. Always seems to go that way. Quick rig to make something go a bit longer and it outlasts the equipment. Great pics too, not jim.
Bob

[irish fixit]

Great looking repair. Glad it worked for you. I was thinking torch brazing rather than tig thus my warping concern.

[Boostinjdm]

I got a little paranoid and ground half of it back out. I found a few little air pockets near the edge so I filled it back in with a little reinforcement. Polished the spool (didn't really need to), and reassembled with new o-rings. Works smoothly, but is a little snug. I can't tell if it's the new o-rings or what. I don't think is bad enough to worry about. If it doesn't leak I'll be good to go.

Last pic.

[NVW]

New "O" rings will make it feel a little tight.

[Chuck]

Tig brazing is on my list of things to try... Looks like you got it to lay down nice.

[TozziWelding]

I would have done the same, fix it and plan on ordering a new one when the $$$ is available.

[killdozerd11]

A good job looks like it will work until a replacement is available

I weld a lot of hydraulic parts for heavy equipment

[zapster]

That will hold...

What caused it in the beginning?

...zap!

[castweld]

I'm with Zap- its good to go. Reason it broke? I see it all the time, not a lot of material around bore and the tapered threads when over tightened splits bore. I fix crap like that often.
Peter

[Boostinjdm]

Originally Posted by zapster

That will hold...

What caused it in the beginning?

...zap!

I'm thinking a combination of teflon tape and excessive elbow grease. I don't know if it cracked this time or has been cracked since I first installed the pipe to JIC fittings over a year ago.

It may be a bit before I can test it. I need to order some "bite" type ferrules to reassemble the hard lines. Found what I thought was a good deal at less than $0.50 each so I tried to order twice as many as needed just in case. Got to the checkout and found out shipping on a dozen or so ferrules was $20. Then I found out I had to make a minimum order of $20. I'm not going to spend $40+ to get $5 worth of parts. Half of which I don't even need. So I will have to keep up the search.

[Boostinjdm]

Originally Posted by castweld

I fix crap like that often.
Peter

Is this the way you would have done it? Or is there a better way?