Stuck bolts

[llamafur]

I'm currently in the process of replacing the u-joints on my aerostar. I'm having trouble with these bolts. I've soaked everything in PB-blaster for the first half of the day and haven't made any progress. I tried using a breaker bar and a scissor jack + a wrench. Nothing is working for me. Is there any tips or tricks I'm missing here?

[Supe]

Heat and an air ratchet!

[welds4d]

Heat the flange that the bolt threads into. Use an O/F torch, a bernz-o-matic won't get hot enough.

[hp246]

Heat, then cool quickly with a wet rag. Repeat 4-5 times. Then try the pb blaster.

[turk]

heat the bolt, then touch a crayon to the threads on the backside. the wax will draw up the threads.

[Bistineau]

I agree with the heat treating process described above. If that doesn't convince it to turn loose, try hitting the flange several times with a BFH while aplying torque with a wrench. You may need to jack and block the rear wheels off the ground so you can rotate the shaft to hit the flange at each bolt as you loosen it. Use plenty of penetrating fluid after the heating. If that doesn't work, get a bigger BFH. Heat and Beat should make it come loose. I find a few choice cuss words seem to help alot in extreme circumstances. These may need to be a string of multi-syllable words as your garden variety plain ole four letter words may not be sufficient in this case. Just make sure the younguns aint around if you have to resort to these measures.

[Mondo]

Originally Posted by Bistineau

...... I find a few choice cuss words seem to help alot in extreme circumstances. These may need to be a string of multi-syllable words as your garden variety plain ole four letter words may not be sufficient in this case. Just make sure the younguns aint around if you have to resort to these measures.

Make certain the wimmin folk are distant also.

[ed l]

get it nice and hot with torch. dont cool it with wet rag your not trying to shrink the metal after you get the bolts out let it air cool i've been working on cars 20+ years

[llamafur]

Got it fixed. Just heated the round part with a rose bud then used a no name wrench an a mallet to knock them loose (Didn't want to ding up my craftsman set)

I had to make a trip back to the store, autozone sold me the wrong repair part. Thanks for the advice.

And here's the old POS part.

[denrep]

Ford flange bolts are just TIGHT.

Start with a "real" USA top quality wrench, turned so that the "overhang"is towards the flange. Put heavy pressure on the wrench and then hit the wrench with a "slugger" to break the bolts loose. Then go after the bolts with a "real" 12-point USA socket to turn ‘em out.

Yeah, you could apply some heat at the flange, or at least strike it there a few times.

Good Luck

Edit - Never mind, reply #9 posted while I was typing.

[Mondo]

Originally Posted by llamafur

Got it fixed. Just heated the round part with a rose bud then used a no name wrench an a mallet to knock them loose (Didn't want to ding up my craftsman set)

I had to make a trip back to the store, autozone sold me the wrong repair part. Thanks for the advice.

And here's the old POS part.

When you install the replacement, clean the bolt threads on the wire wheel on your bench grinder, then apply a liberal coat of Neverseize, or Antiseize, or similar compound to the bolt threads before threading them in. Don't be concerned about the lubricant causing them to loosen up, just apply the torque specified for the bolt size and strength (probably SAE grade 5) and thread pitch (NF?). They will not loosen on their own, but ten years from now when you need to R&R the spyder again it will come apart with only a small amount of biceps power.


- Mondo

[Scott Young]

As this is as good a place to give this tip after the fact as it may be, store it up for future use. some places you can't use a torch, but you can still heat with a arc welder and a carbon rod. Set your carbon on the bolt and place you ground near by. you can put it on the other end if you can get to it or you can latch it on close. you get things hot and stick beeswax to it and thing will near fall out on their own. well that last part might be a tad stretch, but not by much.

[ASE_MasterTech]

Originally Posted by Mondo

When you install the replacement, clean the bolt threads on the wire wheel on your bench grinder, then apply a liberal coat of Neverseize, or Antiseize, or similar compound to the bolt threads before threading them in. Don't be concerned about the lubricant causing them to loosen up, just apply the torque specified for the bolt size and strength (probably SAE grade 5) and thread pitch (NF?). They will not loosen on their own, but ten years from now when you need to R&R the spyder again it will come apart with only a small amount of biceps power.


- Mondo

I disagree..
Applying anti-seize products on fasteners in driveline components is not recommended.
Buy new bolts & apply loctite (blue).
'cause losing a driveshaft really sux...

BTW, anti-seize compounds are NOT lubricants....

[llamafur]

Originally Posted by ASE_MasterTech

I disagree..
Applying anti-seize products on fasteners in driveline components is not recommended.
Buy new bolts & apply loctite (blue).
'cause losing a driveshaft really sux...

BTW, anti-seize compounds are NOT lubricants....

I didn't use any loctite or anti-seize for the bolts. I put a dab of anti-seize around the holes in in the u joints to make it fit together better. I will probably end up buying new bolts later this week.

[DDA52]

Originally Posted by llamafur

Got it fixed. Just heated the round part with a rose bud then used a no name wrench an a mallet to knock them loose (Didn't want to ding up my craftsman set)

I had to make a trip back to the store, autozone sold me the wrong repair part. Thanks for the advice.

And here's the old POS part.

You replaced those? Shoot...you could have gotten another 15-20 feet out of them.



Drive line components WILL most definitely loosen up and come apart on their own. I have had it happen on class 8 trucks all the time when they don't use good threadlocker.

[NVW]

In place of heat, if it's unavailable or can't be used, a sharp hit on the bolt head while torque is being applied to the bolt will break them free.

[BlueArc]

I agree with using loctite on the way back in.

And I usually use a little heat, but I have had good luck in the past with an impact gun with a shallow 12pt, 12mm socket on an extension. You can usually get the bottom two bolts, then you have to rotate the shaft to expose the other two.

[Boostinjdm]

I'm not sure heating the flange was a good idea. There is a seal near by.....

I usually use a good wrench and a sharp hit with a heavy hammer. It'll either come loose or break it off. Then you go to plan B.

[kustomizingkid]

I have never had then stick so bad I couldn't just use my big breaker and custom shaved down 12 point.

[Nitesky]

Originally Posted by llamafur

I didn't use any loctite or anti-seize for the bolts. I put a dab of anti-seize around the holes in in the u joints to make it fit together better. I will probably end up buying new bolts later this week.

You THINK. Loctite will spread all over. It'll follow you home. You will find it on the bedsheets in the morning. NEVER use it on anything you want to stay tight

[Mondo]

Originally Posted by ASE_MasterTech

I disagree..
Applying anti-seize products on fasteners in driveline components is not recommended.
Buy new bolts & apply loctite (blue).
'cause losing a driveshaft really sux...

Right! What was I thinking?
Red Locktite!

Originally Posted by ASE_MasterTech

BTW, anti-seize compounds are NOT lubricants....

They aren't? You should tell that to Permatex Corporation. Appearantly they don't know.

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm

[ASE_MasterTech]

Originally Posted by Mondo

Right! What was I thinking?
Red Locktite!


They aren't? You should tell that to Permatex Corporation. Appearantly they don't know.

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm

I disagree again (sorry Mondo, no offense intended).
U-joints are a wearable item that require replacement on occasion & red Loctite usually needs heat for removal.
Applying heat will not only weaken the metal & may also distort the flange (shouldn't we know this already, this is a 'welding forum' right??), and also may require nearby seal replacement (as previously stated).
Use blue, blue, blue...

[SRO1911]

KROIL from kano labs. makes pb look like missippi mud. I have used it on many 'impossible' theads including Mauser and 1903 Springfield barrels. Driveline/exhaust components are a breeze compared to 70-80+ year old battle rifles.

[Mondo]

Originally Posted by ASE_MasterTech

I disagree again (sorry Mondo, no offense intended).
U-joints are a wearable item that require replacement on occasion & red Loctite usually needs heat for removal.
Applying heat will not only weaken the metal & may also distort the flange (shouldn't we know this already, this is a 'welding forum' right??), and also may require nearby seal replacement (as previously stated).
Use blue, blue, blue...

Yep! Good plan! I can't argue that but I can defend using the red.
The Locktite Red # 271 softens when heated to 500°F. Kinda warm for seals, but it is easy to heat a small localized area to that temperature with a dinky Bernz-o-Matic pencil torch. 500 degrees isn't going to appreciably distort or weaken the flange. Once heated the bolts break free easily.

[farmersamm]

Unless specified by the manufacturer NEVER USE LOCTITE. The Permatex corporation would lead you to believe you can put Loctite on your scrambled eggs, use it for diaper rash, and erectile disfunction

Proper torque will hold the fastener in place.

You may have noticed that the cap screws in the u-joint were fine thread. Fine thread fasteners are designed for higher torque values, and thus higher clamping power.

On the subject of anti seize compound...................anti sieze is a lubricant! While it won't cause a fastener to loosen with time, it will lubricate the threads causing improper torqueing. You'll apply more torque than specified fpr the fastener because it's lubricated. Your torque wrench won't know it's lubricated, but you'll exceed the force required to properly torque the fastener. and maybe stretch i,t or break it.