6G Test Stick Weld?

[pipeline'em]

I need some advice. Like a step by step process on how to approach this test from start to end with specifics. The tools being used are a 1/8 E6010 for filler and a 3/32 E7018 for cap. The pipe to be welded is a 2" Schedule 80 Pipe at a 45 degree angle. Now I want detailed step by step instructions on how to do this. For example the tacks, do you need to set the amperage higher for the tacks, and then bring it down when you are going to begin your filler? The weld will be made going uphill. Since it will be made going uphill, should the travel speed be a little faster? Also, should there be a little waiting period between welds so that the welds have time to cool down? When putting the 7018 cap should the amperage be higher or lower? Should "walk the cup" be used in this type of welding test? I just want thorough in depth absolutely super specific detailed description on how to have everything set up perfectly for this test and the proper techniques to do a really great weld. Thanks!

[Bob the Welder]

Asking questions like this prove that you ARE NOT ready to take this test! Asking about walking the cup on a stick only test and pipe beveled at 45 degrees gives further proof of your lack of knowledge. Makes me think you have not been welding very long, if at all.

Take a welding class at your CC and learn the basics, then practice, practice, practice. Sounds like you need to learn how to swim before jumping into the deep end of the pool.

[Bob the Welder]

pipeline'em, I went and read a few of your previous posts and it appears you are doing this for your dad. Please accept my apology for being so abrupt with your questions regarding a 6G weld test.

Here is a website that could be very helpful for him. It gives some great tips in the bottom third of the site. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...e=story16.html

Ask more questions as needed and we will try to help him. All we can do is give advice, he's the one that needs the hood time. Tell him we're rooting for him and remember, if you get thrown off the horse, get back on and ride the SOB again. Don't ever give up. Good luck, Bob.

[cajun welder]

If you go to rigwelder.com under general welding questions, rodburner gives some good info on the 12 on 12 branch.
Also on the AWS forum there's a lot more pipe welding professionals. Use the search feature and do a search and there's a lot of info there as well. Its nice to see a son willing to go out of his way to help his father! Please don't hesitate to ask, and we will help.
In an earlier post you wanted to know what kind of tools he might need, well if doesn't have any lay out tools get him some, such as contour marker, angle finders, center finders, wrap around, torpedo levels, templates for the 12 on 12 and so on.
Hope this is helpful.

[pipeline'em]

Originally Posted by Bob the Welder

Asking questions like this prove that you ARE NOT ready to take this test! Asking about walking the cup on a stick only test and pipe beveled at 45 degrees gives further proof of your lack of knowledge. Makes me think you have not been welding very long, if at all.

Take a welding class at your CC and learn the basics, then practice, practice, practice. Sounds like you need to learn how to swim before jumping into the deep end of the pool.

I'm not the welder my dad is.

[CEP]

If nobody else is going to take the time to type out their settings, I'll do it.
Remember what works for me may not work for someone else.
What I like.
37 1/2 degree bevel.
A heavy 1/16 to 5/64-inch land.
I use a 5/64 or 3/32-inch drill bit to set the gap.
Make four tacks, 3, 6, 9, 12. About 1/4 to 3/8-inch long.
Thin the tacks for depth with a die grinder, and make a ramp on each side of the tacks.
For the root 1/8-inch 6010 I like 65 to 70 -amps.
Hot pass, 1/8-inch 6010 75-amps.
3/32-inch 7018, 75-amps.

[CEP]

These may help too.

[Bob the Welder]

pipeline'em, read post # 3.

[gordfraser]

my opinion is pretty close to CEP's

I like 1/8" gap 3/32" to 1/8" land. 37.5 degree bevel.

beat the flux of a rod and bend in a sharp "u" to set the gap.

i like 3 tacks in 2" , but its not that important,
what's important is putting the longest tack that you can get a way with in the 6 O'clock position.
(if 3 tacks then they would be 10 and 2 o' clock. i like this as i can make it from 6 to 10 in one go and then re position for the 10 to 12 easy)

"travel speed" is determined by watching the puddle and experience. but yes when you get to the verticle then you cant stay in the same place , you have to lead it up ot it will all fall out on you.

dont forget a tight arc with 7018.

i set the amps for 6010 at @65, but will go up 5+ amps if the gap closes.
i havn't done 6010 hot pass in this situation so i wont comment.

the cap is 3/32" 7018 at 80A after i let the pipe cool.

Hope this helps

G

[snoeproe]

I like a strong 1/8 land and strong 1/8 gap for 1/8 6010 root pass. 80-85 amps
Strong 3/32 land and strong 3/32 gap for a 3/32 6010 root pass. 60- 65 amps
The least tacks you can use without ending up with a dogleg in the pipe is what you want.
Ss already said. largest tack goes into 6 oclock position when you get your piece up to 6g.
Watchg the key hole putting in your root pass. Watch for changes in the size of the key hole as you go around the pipe. If it chamges in size, you need to adjust acordingly to compensate for changes in penitration. You want to the same amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe joint, all the way around.

When your root is in, if your happy with the amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, call the inspector to have a look.When he says carry on, run your 6010 hot pass down .If you need more reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, run your hot pass up with maybe 5 more amps.
You will want to grind down your 6010 root pass and hot pass before welding over top of it.

3/32 7018 all up 80-85 amps. Allow your pipe to cool before capping.

[pipeline'em]

Originally Posted by Bob the Welder

pipeline'em, I went and read a few of your previous posts and it appears you are doing this for your dad. Please accept my apology for being so abrupt with your questions regarding a 6G weld test.

Here is a website that could be very helpful for him. It gives some great tips in the bottom third of the site. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...e=story16.html

Ask more questions as needed and we will try to help him. All we can do is give advice, he's the one that needs the hood time. Tell him we're rooting for him and remember, if you get thrown off the horse, get back on and ride the SOB again. Don't ever give up. Good luck, Bob.

No problem. He was feeling like he was too old to be around all those younger welders, and he hadn't welded in about 15 years, a little here and there, but nothing full time. For the past 3 days he's been out there practicing that 45 degree angle from 8 in the morn to 6 at night and I've been out there every second with him and will continue to till he gets it perfect. He's already improved a great deal, figured out the setting to his old welder and all is left is a little more practice. Thanks for the help!

[pipeline'em]

Originally Posted by cajun welder

If you go to rigwelder.com under general welding questions, rodburner gives some good info on the 12 on 12 branch.
Also on the AWS forum there's a lot more pipe welding professionals. Use the search feature and do a search and there's a lot of info there as well. Its nice to see a son willing to go out of his way to help his father! Please don't hesitate to ask, and we will help.
In an earlier post you wanted to know what kind of tools he might need, well if doesn't have any lay out tools get him some, such as contour marker, angle finders, center finders, wrap around, torpedo levels, templates for the 12 on 12 and so on.
Hope this is helpful.

Thanks, that's what me and my bro have been doing, we bought him a 3 DeWalt grinders, an Auto Darkening helmet because he had one that I swear was like 20 years old. I'll keep looking into what exactly he might need over there. The work he is going to be doing is strictly with oil and gas pipelines. I got mad at him for not taking care of his equipment, it's like I try to find the strongest durable stuff and its still not dad proof. But now he seems like he's realizing that he needs to be a little more gentle even with grinders, and heavy duty tools so that they last longer. He's just old school.

[pipeline'em]

Originally Posted by snoeproe

I like a strong 1/8 land and strong 1/8 gap for 1/8 6010 root pass. 80-85 amps
Strong 3/32 land and strong 3/32 gap for a 3/32 6010 root pass. 60- 65 amps
The least tacks you can use without ending up with a dogleg in the pipe is what you want.
Ss already said. largest tack goes into 6 oclock position when you get your piece up to 6g.
Watchg the key hole putting in your root pass. Watch for changes in the size of the key hole as you go around the pipe. If it chamges in size, you need to adjust acordingly to compensate for changes in penitration. You want to the same amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe joint, all the way around.

When your root is in, if your happy with the amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, call the inspector to have a look.When he says carry on, run your 6010 hot pass down .If you need more reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, run your hot pass up with maybe 5 more amps.
You will want to grind down your 6010 root pass and hot pass before welding over top of it.

3/32 7018 all up 80-85 amps. Allow your pipe to cool before capping.

Thanks for the great info!!! The only thing is I'm not sure exactly what the amps would be on his old Red Face Lincoln SA 200. He kind of figured out by practicing where the machine welds best for the different rods and sections of welding. But I'll let him know about your advice, thanks again!!!

[pipeline'em]

Originally Posted by CEP

If nobody else is going to take the time to type out their settings, I'll do it.
Remember what works for me may not work for someone else.
What I like.
37 1/2 degree bevel.
A heavy 1/16 to 5/64-inch land.
I use a 5/64 or 3/32-inch drill bit to set the gap.
Make four tacks, 3, 6, 9, 12. About 1/4 to 3/8-inch long.
Thin the tacks for depth with a die grinder, and make a ramp on each side of the tacks.
For the root 1/8-inch 6010 I like 65 to 70 -amps.
Hot pass, 1/8-inch 6010 75-amps.
3/32-inch 7018, 75-amps.

Wow, that's a great weld! Thanks for the images and the tips. Hey I had a question. My dad welds up all the time, should he weld down in any part of the 6G test process? He says that welding up is a better quality weld. Any thoughts?

[CEP]

Originally Posted by pipeline'em

Hey I had a question. My dad welds up all the time, should he weld down in any part of the 6G test process? He says that welding up is a better quality weld. Any thoughts?

You / he, has to go by the WPS, = weld procedure specification!

[pipeline'em]

Originally Posted by CEP

These may help too.

I was wondering if you could tell me your technique for welding from the bottom 6 o'clock to the 9 o'clock. The technique my dad says he is using is something like a J he said.

[moneynotfunny]

I picked up a trick from years of taking this test, it really makes that cap slick. After the root and hot pass are in or flushed out on heavier pipe and you have the first stringer ran the whole way around leave the slag on and start the next stringer keep in tight don't try to burn down into the heavy slag just let the rod burn the light slag on the upper edge of the first stringer away. The slag from the first stringer will hold everything in place and give you a nice slick cap. This also works very good in the horizontal.

[CEP]

Originally Posted by pipeline'em

I was wondering if you could tell me your technique for welding from the bottom 6 o'clock to the 9 o'clock. The technique my dad says he is using is something like a J he said.

For 6-G, hot pass I run a “J” motion, with the long side of the "J" on the lower pipe. Same for a 6010 cap. For 7018 cap I still run a “J” but very little movement, other words a real short “J”.

For 5-G, hot pass I run a flat bottom “U”, cut each side of the wagon track of the root pass.
For the cap, be it 7018 or 6010 I run a squished “Z”, or side to side motion.