5/32 7018m

[Big65mopar]

Working with the above rod on 3/16 angle and flat bar set up to make the main backbone of a cable raceway using an old two welder output stick box with a 50ft extension and a 10ft lead at the end with the temp set at 140amps. This rod burns different from 1/8 and I've had marginal luck with push and pull and constant whip but so far whats worked best has been a J weave to prevent undercut and roll along with a 40degree work angle on a fillet weld. I'm working with two seasoned vets at work but I'd like to get additional advice on working with this rod from others so that I can move away from having to weave.

Not fully related but just wanted to update everyone that I've been working 7 days a week for the last 4 months now and will be working through the holidays as well. I'll update about job openings soon.

[welds4d]

Just my opinion, but 5/32 7018 seems waaaaay big for 3/16 base metal.

[tenpins]

you should try using 1/8' because 140 amps is too cold for 5/32. 150 or more.

[ironmangq]

5/32 is a pretty big rod for anything under 1/2". Drop down to 1/8 and things will go better. Getting fresh rod will also help if yours has been open a while, never seems to burn right unless its been stored in an oven

[weldbead]

or try 3/32 at 90 amps..undercut may be resolved by slowing travel speed a little and letting more metal flow into the bead..watch the puddle get full.. 5/32 id be at maybe 175 amps..way much for 3/16 metal..

[SuperArc]

Originally Posted by weldbead

or try 3/32 at 90 amps..undercut may be resolved by slowing travel speed a little and letting more metal flow into the bead..watch the puddle get full.. 5/32 id be at maybe 175 amps..way much for 3/16 metal..

I agree and will add.......... I don't "whip" 7018 rod like I would 6010/6011. For me, whipping 7018 has never produced a descent weld.

[lotechman]

I suggest more amperage and travel speed fairly fast. If you are welding the toe to the flat bar just lay the rod over so that it is pointing into the toe of the angle. With lots of heat you can save a lot of time.
You don't have to weave since the leg of the angle is only 3/16 thick. If you are welding the heel of the angle to the flat bar you still can travel fast since your rod is nice and big and it will easily put down a 3/16th fillet..

[Big65mopar]

Sorry the angle is 1/4 thick. I had a feeling the travel speed was off but the heat is dead on given that its an old old dual welder box with the long springs inside of it. I could go with 1/8 but 3/32 is to small and would require to many passes for whats being done and the time line required to get the work done.

[BlueArc]

Originally Posted by lotechman

I suggest more amperage and travel speed fairly fast. If you are welding the toe to the flat bar just lay the rod over so that it is pointing into the toe of the angle. With lots of heat you can save a lot of time.
You don't have to weave since the leg of the angle is only 3/16 thick. If you are welding the heel of the angle to the flat bar you still can travel fast since your rod is nice and big and it will easily put down a 3/16th fillet..

Agreed.

[Big65mopar]

The weave was killing me, had it happen on cres plate same thickness using 3/32 308L rod. I've been so used to doing a weave to combat the mounding I would get from trying to run a stinger but I didn't realize the heat was off. One of the long term welders I'm working with helped me out and now it looks better.