Dumb question # 2

[etonline]

OK so the thought was that I should OA weld before attemping to TIG.

AND the thought is that the Econo TIG etc. aren't worth the money cuz for a little more you can get a better machine and I agree with that idea.

BUT>>>>>>>>>>> what about buying a HF DC TIG machine on sale for $199 and learning on it?

Oh been MIG welding for about 2 years but really the last 6 mos daily.

And dumb question # 1 is in the General forum in case you wanted to know.

Thanks #2

[zapster]

if its only a d.c. welder..
then you can kiss goodbye doing thin aluminum...

...zap!

[etonline]

Yea I understood that Zap, thanks.

But what do you think about it as a learning tool? Will have to buy an Argon bottle sooner or later any way.

[riley mcmillan]

If you are going to tig weld without getting regrets and aggravation, I respectfully suggest going for at least 250 amps ac/dc high frequency. If you look around you can probably find a used machine for six or seven hundred dollars. I have a miller 330 a/bp over 30 years old and it still works great. So if you buy major brand that works ok you will be ahead of the game.

[bigdaddy]

Unless you've got a strict budget of $200 I'd spend a few more bucks on a used ac/dc stick welder (a good name brand), something around 150dc/225ac. Then for $100 you can get a scratch start tig torch like a Weldcraft WP-17V or similar model with a built in gas valve. You can always sell the used stick machine if you get a good tig, the HF machine has no resale value. You'll need to share your MIG gas regulator, or buy a new regulator.

OR, Sears clearance currently has a Thermal Arc 85 amp scratch start tig/stick kit for $265. This is normally a $450 kit.

I was considering the TA kit but decided to go with the bigger stick welder and weldcraft torch instead.

[MotoFab]

Since you are asking, I think it is a great idea to spend $200 for a functional tool.

The HF TIG has an internal gas valve and a fixed post flow timer.

It also has 'lift arc' starting instead of scratch start.

And according to some recent manufacturer sell sheets, 'lift arc' is a spectacular development that is better than high freq start because it causes no local RF interference.

It's common knowledge that lift arc has been around a while, so the advertising copy may be reflecting that high freq start power supplies are having some difficulty in passing FCC emissions regulations.

And as 'square-ish wave' AC inverters do not need high frequency to maintain the arc during the zero-crossing portion of the AC polarity shift, maybe high freq start will become less prominent as inverter power supplyes become more the rule.

The Harbor Freight has no foot pedal though. But as your initial drills/skills will prolly consist of moving a puddle along a flat plate, you'll have a free hand to set/adjust the amps with.

I am no welder by any stretch, but I have been reading many of the posts from the experienced people here. I am an excellent scrap metal maker though.

- Jim

[MicroZone]

Not sure who told you the EconoTIG isn't worth the money but my machine does alot that other welders scoff at and say the same crazy thing, " oh that machine probably can't do that material". You know what...it does every time.

Everyone wants BIGGER and BETTER, that's what started the SUV craze. So, let's not keep up with the Jones'. Get a decent machine that is affordable and something you can practice with and enjoy...without breaking the bank.

[MAC702]

Originally Posted by etonline

AND the thought is that the Econo TIG etc. aren't worth the money cuz for a little more you can get a better machine and I agree with that idea.

This is entirely different than saying that the EconoTIG can NOT do a job well.

For a very good deal on the used market, an EconoTIG may be worth considering. But honestly, for a new machine there's a much better VALUE in the Syncrowave 180/200 class.

[fun4now.]

i think you will find lerning on a good quality welder is easyer than trying to on a cheepo. find a used good one or some thing you can aford in new, if you have the power to run it a syncro180 should be easy to find now that the 200 is out. the TA-185 is an excilent value in an inverter if power and size is a consideration.
as for the lift arc, i dont care for it myself. it take a bit of playing with to get the tecneak down to alow a good start, the HF is the way to go, i use it exclusivly. its simple all you need do is hit the foot control and you are welding, no special tuch and go teckneak, just go.
a cheapo welder without a foot controle will likely have a les than stedy arc that can be agrivating and having to turn the gas on and off at the torch is just a pain i dont even want to think about, much less the waisted gas involved wile you turn it on and off or forget to do so causing the masive los of gas or a fryed tung and work pice requiring regrinding and posible los of the work pice.
take the time to save up and buy a good welder, no need to buy it 2 times buy a good one once and you will have it for many years as well as having the advantage of lerning on a good one. you will also have a much better resale value should you decide to get rid of it later.

[Joe H]

I'll have to say that I like my econotig too. I've never had a need for more than 160amps so far. My only complaint was the low side, trying to weld thin stainless was a pain. Since I learned from the guys here that AC would work ok on SS I have been welding 22ga and even 24ga with no problems, so I'm happy now. I bought mine new, the difference in price is pretty big between the econotig and a synchrowave. I just couldn't justify an extra $400-$500 for my hobby needs.

[pulser]

As Joe H points out, this was also my understanding, that the EconTig does not go low enough in current for some thinner materials.

Very cleaver Joe H, use AC to get lower heat on thin stainless!

How about DCEP for super low heat? The charts say 1/16" tungsten can carry 10-20 amps DCEP. 3/32" can handle 15-30 and 1/8" 25-40 amps.

[Joe H]

Originally Posted by pulser

Very cleaver Joe H, use AC to get lower heat on thin stainless!

Wasn't my idea. I started a thread about how to decrease the output amps, and AC welding was suggested.

[Joe H]

DCEP may be worth trying too, with a 3/32 tungsten. It would be kinda cool, because AC gets on my nerves a little.