Stick electrode recommendation please.

[ANVIL]

Please keep this simple. I'm new and I'm fully aware that an experienced welder should perform the task that I'm about to ask. I'm well aware of the possible "dangers" etc..... It's nice being an adult that gets to make his own decisions in life, so please I don't need the comments about "danger" etc...

Here's the question. An old '83 Ford Ranger with broken shock absorber mounts off the frame. Vehicle is used 100% on gravel road in a Forrest on private land. It hasn't been registered in about 16 years, nor will it ever be. It's strickly a "motorized wheel barrow" now.

In the hands of a skilled welder, to fix the suspension, would 7018 rod be the choice??? I'm thinking the low hydrogen rod would help eliminate cracking. If not 7018, is there a more suited rod for something like this? I figure 6011 would not hold out as well as 7018.

Also, the welding would be almost all vertical due to the position of the mounting hardware for the shocks. All surfaces will be hit with a grinder for that high super clean weld surface. Also, additional metal will be joined for added mounting hardware support.

Is the rod selection here good or bad? Would a 60xx or even an 80xx electrode be better?? Thank you.

[jbmprods]

i'd use 7018. make sure it is fresh.

[Scott Young]

find a real weldor and have him fix it.

[Fat Bastard]

Any of the 70XX electrodes would do just fine. Find the one(s) that will work best for your position and experience.

[ANVIL]

Originally Posted by Scott Young

find a real weldor and have him fix it.

I forgot to mention that I don't need to hear this c@$! either. The answer is not germane to the question. Seems like there's always "one" in the classroom.

To those that came back with simple answers, I thank you very much. One guy pm'd me and also suggested 7014, thanks.

I must add, I know about the 70xx series and an open root, that those rods don't work to well in that instance and 6011's for open roots etc.... . Also, it's not like I'm welding a trailer hitch or a broken truck body frame for that matter. It's a shock mounting bracket that broke. Worst case scenario if it breaks again is that I limp home at 20mph just like the last time.

Thanks again all.

[soutthpaw]

what model welder are you planning to use, I am guessing the metal is rusty, dirty even with grinding and cleaning so 6010 if your machine will run it or 6011 are both deep penetrating rods that work well on rusty or dirty metal.

[DSW]

You don't want to hear it, but I'll toss it out anyways. There's a reason things like this are attached with rivets or bolts to frames when they are built at the factory. I'm betting you will find that's how it was done originally. If so, do yourself a favor and do it the same way. One reason is that most likely you can simply build your bracket on the bench and therefore weld in the flat position where you will most likely get the best weld possible for your skill level. Second is the fact you will not damage the vehicle frame itself. I doubt the "frame" is all that thick, and trying to run vertical without the right skills probably means you will either have a very cold weld or lots of undercutting. Frame damage is very hard to repair properly.

Since you say "frame" I'm guessing this isn't a model where the mounts are part of a sheet metal unibody. If they are, stick is the wrong process to go about this with. Mig would be a much better choice to do thin material like this. I seriously doubt, even with small rods, you are capable of doing stick welds out of position on sheet metal.


You are cranky because people are telling you facts you probably know and just want to ignore. That doesn't change reality or the facts just because they don't fit what you want to hear. You sound like any number of guys who come on here simply wanting someone to tell them the same things they want to hear and nothing else. Why bother to ask questions then? Guess you already know everything and don't need to learn. I'm not trying to be a smart azz. I'm asking you to look at what you are saying and determine if you are here just to have someone agree with you, or if you are really here to learn something. If you want to learn, then listen to all the answers. If the majority say to do it one way, or that this is a bad idea, then maybe you should listen to this advise. There's usually a good reason why it's being given to you, and it's not just to tell you no.

[BD1]

hi. I too would go with 6010 first and if needed cap with 7018.

[ANVIL]

Originally Posted by DSW

You don't want to hear it, but I'll toss it out anyways. There's a reason things like this are attached with rivets or bolts to frames when they are built at the factory. I'm betting you will find that's how it was done originally. If so, do yourself a favor and do it the same way. One reason is that most likely you can simply build your bracket on the bench and therefore weld in the flat position where you will most likely get the best weld possible for your skill level. Second is the fact you will not damage the vehicle frame itself. I doubt the "frame" is all that thick, and trying to run vertical without the right skills probably means you will either have a very cold weld or lots of undercutting. Frame damage is very hard to repair properly.

w
DSW, no offense taken. You're absolutely right regarding the above comment you made. Here's the problem that some people simply don't understand.

1) I'm typing and reading from an iPhone. I can't get into details too much with my questions and explanations of what type of advice I need. It would take me an hour to do over my iPhone.

2). In a very brief nut-shell, this truck is a Frankensteined-out vehicle to begin with. It has more foreign parts on it than a Chinese aircraft carrier. It's simple a farm tool that is a rusted out "chitty chitty bang bang" vehicle before restoration. It's held together mostly by duct tape and bailing wire. When it finally "dies" it will probably be buried in a ditch on my property.

3) Having this "bomber" junked out truck that moves hay and salt licks along a fence line is all this vehicle does. It doesn't even have a roof because the top was chopped off with a Sawzall years ago.

Are you getting the picture??? This vehicle is NOT my '10 Chevy Diesel 3500HD truck!!!

Sometimes a simple questions just needs a simple bottom of the line answer. I don't care about the shock mount rivets. If I did, I'd take the truck to a pro. There are some things left in life that should just be left alone. One thing is not to assume anything because you know what they say about ASSuMEing, right?

Again, I got my answer from some that simply didn't read so "deep" into my question. Sometimes, us new guys here just want a simple answer to a simple question. It's nice because then these darn lengthy speeches don't have to be typed out like I'm apparently doing now.

You are cranky because people are telling you facts you probably know and just want to ignore. That doesn't change reality or the facts just because they don't fit what you want to hear.

Thanks for the advice, but please don't read too deep into a new fella's question next time, nor assume that you know what the full and complete details are of anyone's "welding project."

[DSW]

I understood your ideas exactly. If I thought otherwise, I probably wouldn't have bothered to answer the way I did. Many of us also think about others who may read the thread either now or in the future looking for information. It's often why simple answers sometimes are better and why at other times simple answers can be more damaging than either no answer or a much more detailed reply. Also keep in mind with a "new fella" we usually don't know what their skill levels is and what sort of understanding they have about what they are doing. Lots of this has to be "read into" the post to try and give good information.


Good luck with your project.

[Matt_Maguire]

S'pect you have some serious rust, salt or not...

In the salt world of Illinois the first go-to is usually mig, Co2, vertical down. If you have only stick then 6010/6011. Try to stick the bracket back together and leave the frame alone. Use junk to bridge things if you have to.

It's prolly going to take some time filling a bit, grinding edges some more and going again. It's the world of mostly rust and little iron left in the parts your trying to weld.

I have an unlicensed '84 toy with snow plow that has a frame 5/16" to 3/8" thick where it "hasn't been fooled with... And at 50 cents an hour labor prolly worth a fortune... "YEA Right"!

Good Luck,
Matt

[Stick-man]

I still agree with what DSW said. Trying to weld on car steel with a stick is hard enough. But when you add in, out of position and if there is any rust, it will be very difficult. I have tried to patch dump trailers that started off as 3/16" & 1/4" steel. But over time it turned paper thin and I couldn't even use .035 wire without blowing holes in it.

If you have access to a wire feed welder, I would definately use that with lite wire.

[HOBART]

if ti is just the hay hauling fenceline beater, do you need shocks? take the old shocks off of the axle and drive it. not being sarcastic, just a thought.

[SquirmyPug]

If its a farm truck you don't need shocks anyway

[Scott Young]

Anvil, it doesn't matter what you weld it with.

1. you admitted you don't know what you are doing thus running any electrode out of position is out of your skill set.

2. you admitted it is just a glorified wheelbarrow, so go sans shocks. just put stiff springs in it.

3. a crappy 60xx weld is as unreliable as a crappy 70xx or a 80xx weld.

I know it sounds like I am downing you, but I am not. you would be better served to find a welder who can weld while laying under a truck in a most awkward position while holding a 14 inch live wire in his hand and doing it in pitch black until he strikes an arc. good luck doing this while slag and BBs are falling.



I didn't mention any "dangers" as you requested. I am just being realistic. if you want to glob enough metal on it so that it will stick I would weld it with a 6010/11. it is unlikely once you get your bracket to stick that you will have adequate access to get a wire wheel in there to knock all the slag out so the 6010/11 rod is best due to the light slag.

Good luck.

[WelderMatt]

I second the 6010 root with 7018 cap. The 6010 will burn in deep...the 7018 will run nicer over the top of it. You could do it all with 7018....the first pass will pull a lot of junk out & the slag will be a bitch, if the metal isnt really clean. My 2 cents...

[GBM]

DSW hits nail on head again. Or rivet in this case. Rivets are underappreciated big time.

Anvil, You look silly and myopic complaining about or thinking that on an OPEN FORUM you can avoid these old hands speaking up on safety issues they think they might be witnessing.

You have to understand that they are speaking to third party readers of the thread also... not just to an original poster... and they have a moral obligation to speak up when they think they see something potentially dangerous.

So, learn to ignore the safety warnings ( EEEEEEKKKK) and just take from a thread what you want... but don't think you can stop ... or should you be able to stop ... the posting of safety warnings from these very experienced guys....

[Katcracker]

AC sucks.....Lincoln 6010 DC+ Lincoln 7018 DC+ out of a fresh can or from the rod oven is what I do on any critical welds period. If you are not a good welder then you can forget making a critical weld in a funny position period. It is a pipe dream to think otherwise. Wire welders make some great welds but if I can stick it then I do. I hate mig

[astaindsoul5446]

3/32 6010 down hand(50-60 AMPS) to pin in and burn crap and rust out, hit it ith a wire wheel and 3/32 7018 up hand(80 - 90 amps dc).

Do at your own risk.

[David R]

3/32 7018 80 amps.

CLEAN IT FIRST

David

[ANVIL]

Thanks guys. Got what I needed. I appreciate the help.