Tubing Bender

[Wannabe]

I am building this tubing bender:



and I was wondering about what order I should go about putting it together. I do not have a welding table to tack things to, and it definitely needs to be plumb and square.

Material is 2x2" 1/4" wall.

Thanks,

Mike

[kelzweld]

Fabrication order is cut, drill, weld. For the tube bender pictured I would start with the base, then the two vertical pieces and then the bracing.

[Tig sticker]

I agree with the order above but I would weld the little U-brace to the diagonals before welding the diagonals in.

It's a minor thing, but distortion in the diagonal could pull the upright out of plum and since it's the last part, that is where you are going to have your last chance to make everything straight.

[cold_steel_125]

how exactly does that work? ive seen hydrulic tube benders,but never something of that design?

[Wannabe]

Here is a photo:



Basically it bends vertically instead of horizontally.

[runchman]

That looks pretty slick, do you have a link to any more info on it?

Not that I need a tubing bender, but you know how it is when you see a cool tool

Ok never mind I figured it out from the pic:

http://gottrikes.com/

- John

[g-off]

Im building the exact same bender. I'm just waiting for the uprights to get back from milling then I'll be set to finish it. I was able to do all the other holes on my drill press though. I'm also using one of the air hydraulic rams instead of the manual one.

Should be pretty cool when its done.

[runchman]

We'll see a motorcycle frame emerge out of both of you guys that are making these benders, right?

[wannabe_welder]

What is the cost for the dies for this?

[Wannabe]

Originally Posted by runchman

We'll see a motorcycle frame emerge out of both of you guys that are making these benders, right?

Actually I am building mine to bend tubing for my 4x4.

[Wannabe]

Originally Posted by wannabe_welder

What is the cost for the dies for this?

This bender uses Pro-Tools 105 type dies. I paid $240 for a 5" CLR 1.5" die.

[g-off]

Originally Posted by runchman

We'll see a motorcycle frame emerge out of both of you guys that are making these benders, right?

I'll be using mine for a desert/prerunner truck project. I already have 2 dirt bikes, don't need anymore.

Wannabe, this guy has decent prices for dies: www.xtremecrawlers.com

[runchman]

A really stupid question (I've never been a tube-bender) - when you have a bend that is in more than one plane, do you just eyeball it or do you make some type of jig to calibrate it?

Say you are making motorcycle handlebars, for instance....

[Wannabe]

Just get a couple of the magnetic angle finders and use those.

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by runchman

A really stupid question (I've never been a tube-bender) - when you have a bend that is in more than one plane, do you just eyeball it or do you make some type of jig to calibrate it?

Say you are making motorcycle handlebars, for instance....

For attaching a magnetic angle finder to the tube, I make and sell what I call a POB (plane of bend) bracket. I can't seem to find a pic of one on this computer to post.You can see them here http://www.offroadfabnet.com

[lotechman]

Tack weld a temporary brace across the top of the verticals and across the tips of the legs on the floor before welding.

[Wannabe]

Originally Posted by lotechman

Tack weld a temporary brace across the top of the verticals and across the tips of the legs on the floor before welding.

Why do you say that? The material on the bender above is 2x2 1/4" wall, the puller arms are 5/8" thick, 2 1/2" wide. Everything is very beefy, with the die installed I think the thing tips the scales north of 200 #. I can't imagine there would be any appreciable deflection of the uprights, but I could be wrong.

Please explain,

Mike

[Sober_Pollock]

Originally Posted by Wannabe

Why do you say that? The material on the bender above is 2x2 1/4" wall, the puller arms are 5/8" thick, 2 1/2" wide. Everything is very beefy, with the die installed I think the thing tips the scales north of 200 #. I can't imagine there would be any appreciable deflection of the uprights, but I could be wrong.

Please explain,

Mike

I think he's talking about using temporary bracing to keep things straight, square, & plumb during construction (While you're welding).....

Not bracing it while you are bending.

[Robo48]

Originally Posted by Wannabe

I am building this tubing bender:



and I was wondering about what order I should go about putting it together. I do not have a welding table to tack things to, and it definitely needs to be plumb and square.

Material is 2x2" 1/4" wall.

Thanks,

Mike

Thats a cool bender Where do you get the hydraulics from??

[josh930]

Originally Posted by Robo48

Thats a cool bender Where do you get the hydraulics from??

probably harbor freight

[Wannabe]

Yup,

The plans call for a 3-ton manual jack, but I went with the 8-ton air over hydro jack. That way all I have to do is hook it up to the compressor and pull the trigger and watch it go.

[lotechman]

Originally Posted by Wannabe

Why do you say that?
<snip>
Please explain,

Mike

Sorry I was out of town for a couple of days. Yes the reason you want to tack a temporary brace across the top is that the welding shrinkage forces on the bottom tube will cause it to go swayback and as a result move the top ends close together. If you tack a piece of scrap across the top ends the shrinkage will be reduced. don't get crazy wiht your tack welds... just enough to hold but so little that a crescent wrench can twist it off.
If it happens you can duplicate the red heat on the underside of the cross tube, the uprights will shrink apart. These kind of shrinkage problems arise even if the tube is six by six and half inch thick. ( I've been there !)
Another way as mentioned is to tack weld it down to a one inch plate table before welding but the disadvantage with that is you cannot turn the thing over to weld on the flat which produces a superior weld...... Unless you are a "superior " welder :')))

[short bus]

I agree with everyone else, start welding the base/frame first.

You mentioned that a 8-ton jack was used. Is that the air/hydro from Harbor Freight? I am planning on building this bender, and was wondering how this jack was doing.

[Wannabe]

Originally Posted by short bus

I agree with everyone else, start welding the base/frame first.

You mentioned that a 8-ton jack was used. Is that the air/hydro from Harbor Freight? I am planning on building this bender, and was wondering how this jack was doing.

Well, many people on Pirate4x4.com have used the Harbor Freight 8 ton air/hydro with great success. The problem is that the two tangs on the base of the jack are rotated 90 degrees from where they need to be to mount to the base of the bender. So I have mine complete with the exception of coming up with a solution to this problem.

Mike

[DanM]

That is a cool bender ! I wish I would have dont that with mine ! Also if you want to spend a few extra buck. Get a digital level. I swear by mine, Have used the others plenty but really love the digital.