Thermal arc Dragster 85

[ramblerx15]

Somebody try and explain to me why low hydrogen electrodes are not recommended for use with this machine? Is it just to scare rookies from trying to use them or does it affect the machine in some way ? I have burned a few 3/32 7018 with mine, and they seem to work just fine to me. Any comments / insight on this is welcome.

[riley mcmillan]

Is that an AC machine? 7018 is dc positive electrode (reverse polarity).

[ramblerx15]

Originally Posted by riley mcmillan

Is that an AC machine? 7018 is dc positive electrode (reverse polarity).

No, its DC only, inverter style. Runs on 110V.

[riley mcmillan]

Doesn't make sense. Is that what it says in the manual? Is it difficult to change the polarity on it?

[ramblerx15]

Originally Posted by riley mcmillan

Doesn't make sense. Is that what it says in the manual? Is it difficult to change the polarity on it?

The manual doesn't specifically say not to, but they are not listed in the recommended rods to use list, and I read on the sale listing 'no low hydrogen electrodes'. I think it is BS myself, I was wondering if somebody knew something that I didn't. Maybe its a case of 'I read it on the internets, so it must be true' Anyway I wil carry on, its a sweet little welding machine. When I get the money together I am going to get a foot pedal,for remote amperage control. I already have the plug and panel / remote switch wired in.

[GWallace]

Does anyone know how he wired the remote connector? Is this an option for this welder? This welder would be perfect but I cant find any with the remote connection. Please let me know if anyone knows how this was done or if it is an option/kit that is available.

[Brand X]

Originally Posted by GWallace

Does anyone know how he wired the remote connector? Is this an option for this welder? This welder would be perfect but I cant find any with the remote connection. Please let me know if anyone knows how this was done or if it is an option/kit that is available.

http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/...light=dragster

[ramblerx15]

Originally Posted by Brand X

http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/...light=dragster

Yes that's where the plans came from. Thanks Brand X

[ramblerx15]

Originally Posted by ramblerx15

Yes that's where the plans came from. Thanks Brand X

For the electronics people: I have been studying this schematic and wondering if it is possible to put a remote contactor for on/off into this pedal circuit? My theory is shown in the picture that I have 'paint' ed. Will this idea work without frying something? Which leg of the pot should the switch be in (A,B,C)? Will this make the output terminals dead when the switch is open?I have a microswitch that I will be using that will work out for this, and a wiring cable plug assembly with 5 conductors to match the connector that I have already installed using this diagram. This is the place to get answers and I know that someone will know. Thanks

[ramblerx15]

/\~/\~/\



My bad, the green leads should be together on the right side Foiled again by the "magic eraser"

[ramblerx15]

Got the pedal today and hooked it up. Wow what a difference, it made this thing into a really good tig welder. The pedal came from SSC controls, and it was fairly easy to install, just cut and splice, add a little solder and plug and play

[David R]

Originally Posted by ramblerx15

Somebody try and explain to me why low hydrogen electrodes are not recommended for use with this machine? Is it just to scare rookies from trying to use them or does it affect the machine in some way ? I have burned a few 3/32 7018 with mine, and they seem to work just fine to me. Any comments / insight on this is welcome.

I just got a TA 185 yesterday. I welded with some 1/8 7018. It did work, BUT the weld looked like it cooled too fast. The bead was ripply instead of smooth like when I use my Ranger 250. Slag did not peel right off because the texture of the bead. The surface of the bead almost looked like I used 6010. Kind of "dry" in apearance. I think I had good penatration. The puddle was fluid and the slag stayed back away from the puddle. The bead acted as if I had the arc force turned way up on the ranger for fast freeze of the puddle. It did weld nice overhead.

The surface of the bead looked like ^^^^^^ if it was magnafied a little instead of nice and smooth.

I doubt it will hurt the welder, but the output is not optimized for 7018. Probably better with 6013 which I don't even have any of.
Hope this answers your question.

David

[ramblerx15]

OK, here it is, the wiring diagram and parts list for the Dragster. It is easy install, and the parts are readily available. I would highly recommend this mod, it makes a quality poor mans tig. My concerns with a having a remote contactor are not an issue, as yeah it will arc at pedal up, but it just barely lights. Makes scratch start electrode contamination a non-issue also. I like it!



I hope you enjoy my embellished how to sheet. Please Paypal donations to ramblerx15@verizon.net I am for sure going to enjoy using this welder, and I am sure y'all will too!

[TIGBOY]

How Thick Can It Tig In Mild Steel

[ramblerx15]

With proper joint prep, 1/4 is weldable in small amounts, if you have to. If I were doing a lot of thick stuff, I would get a bigger machine with more power.

[ChamferTrode]

A member of the Hobart board posted his TA85 'improvments'

Finally found the time and stuff (Mama calls it junk) to do this using member RICH vSB's schematic.
only bux spent was 50usd for the SSC Controls pedal, (cheap, as it's cord got cut in an accident, new she goes for 180bux) it WAS a Miller 14 pinner.
connector plug is a DIN (can't recall why i had them)
connector socket, DIN (naturally)
solenoid (24vdc) was sitting in the shop
"B" size gas fittings (who amongst us does have these?)
brick transformer for solenoid (HP scanner)
side gas Dinse connector (don't leave home without it)

So now it's a scratch starter w/gas solenoid, next I gotta figger out how to hi-frequency start it. Hmmmmm, neon light PS? (relax that's a joke)

[iWeasel410]

Very cool, I'm gonna do this to my Invertec V100. Instead of having a switch on the front panel for panel/foot control, I'm going to integrate it into the pedal as a momentary switch whenever the pedal is pushed down (something like a DP-DT momentary limit switch if I can find one). That solenoid is pretty cool, but I wonder if I'll be able to integrate post-flow time with something like a timer IC.

[ramblerx15]

I found another source for the circular connector, Magnets and Kits Unlimited. They sell Riland stuff in their E-bay store.
I bought an older Dragster 80 for cheap, and if I ever get it back from my brother, plans are to "tigify" it.