Newbie

[LJL]

Hello, Been surfing this board, for several months now, and have found it very informative. Only been welding (or trying) for a little over a year now. One of my problems appeared to be not being able to see the "puddle". After reading several post, I realized that my lens shade (12) was way to dark. Switched to an 8 and I'm seeing the puddle good now. I always thought that the higher the number, the better the eye protection. Correct me if I'm wrong, but as I understand it now, all the lenses have the same uv protection and the shade number allows for better sight of the weld puddle.

Most of my welding is with 1/4" or less angle and tubing. I presently own a Miller T-bolt ac/dc 225/150. Eventually I would like to get some type of mig. Any suggestions appreciated.

My present rod selection consists of 1/8" 6010 (red), 3/32" 6013, 3/32" 6011 and some 3/32" 7018. Does this seem to be a good selection. Most of the material is new.

One other question: When the current is listed as ac or dc+ is it assumed that the primary current to use is ac?

Sorry for being so long, wanted to say hello and thanks for all the great information.

[Franz]

The #8 lense is dangerous, and too light unless you normally walk accompanied by a dog wearing a harness.
If a 13 was too dark, why didn't you try an 11?
There is a lot more to witch lense you use than UV protection.

I'd humbly suggest you fully master the stick process before you try MIG, but if you simply can't wait, go with a minimum 175 class 240 volt machine.

Rods that are listed as AC DC+ will simply work in either of those currents. Neither AC or DC is a preferred current for the rod.
Welcome to the zoo.

Second the filter, # 8 is too light for general arc welding & is for heavy oxy/fuel welding. The starting point for arc is 10 and goes up to 12. Check the following link for a lense guide.

http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/at...237/tab2-1.gif

PS Welcome to the forum and the rod you have make a well rounded selection, master those and you'll have a good start to welding.

[DDA52]

Ditto on the zoo welcome
Have you tried a gold lense? Much easier to see with, even in the darker shades. I use a #11 gold.

Your rods are a good mix. You like the red 6010's? When you get more, try the 6010 plus (gray), you might be impressed, I was.

I agree with Franz, don't get a mig under 175a / 240v, unless you'll do nothing but sheetmetal with it.

[revpol]

I use a 9 for tig and a 10 for light stick, like what you have. Bigger rod like 1/8 or larger I'll use a 11. The main thing you are looking for is to not have your eyes in a strain. It's just as bad having to light or to dark. You don't want eye strain after 20 or 30 minitues of welding. If a 12 was way to dark a 10 is probably what you need. Don't get the plastic filters get glass plastic tends to warp and is hard to clean. Use the plastic clear lens tho on each side of the dark lens. Keep them all clean and change the clears when they start to get bad. Dirty lens is as bad as improper shade of lens. revpol

[LJL]

Thanks guys for all the responses. I'm going to buy a 10 this evening and see how it does. I tried the 8 because it was given to me by a friend of a friend. Guess I better watch those friend of a friend deals!!!

Thanks Franz for the ac/dc question. I thought I had read or heard from someone that the first listed was the primary.

Thanks Paychk for the link to lens shades. I've got it printed out and hanging in the garage.

DDA52, haven't had time to mess with the 6010. But I'll get some
grey ones and try them.

Is it better to learn to weld with ac first before switching to dc? It seems I've seen here somewhere that if you can weld with ac it is much easier with dc. Can someone straighten me out on this?


Thanks again for quick responses!!!

[DDA52]

LJL

Dc is more stable than ac. IF you learn to controll ac on a consistent basis, then dc will be a cakewalk. Don't ignore dc to learn ac. Sometimes frustration with ac can discouraging. I don't like ac because I get hit ( zapped, fried, shocked ) so much. I also learned on a straight dc machine, so I'm prejudiced. Ac however is better on BIG 7018's, say 3/16 and up. Never did know why, just know it is.
If you still have trouble seeing the puddle with a green lense, try the golds. They take some special handling,yes, but they're worth it. They allow you to see in a more "natural" light. In 20 plus years, I've never had one break from dropping or warp from the heat. ( I've had plenty of that- majority of my work in '86 to 94 was overhead, say 90% ) Ask questions and experiment and have fun.

[DDA52]

LJL and whoever else cares
If you try gold, make sure you get a VERY GOOD cover plate. I've tried dozens of brands and the best so far has been Comfort brand with the CR-39 monomer. They are tough and resist burns better than any other I've found. ( if anyone has a better one, let me know ) Make sure you get one for both sides and spares ( good idea for any lense ). Golds are plastic and require special care, but many weldors think they are worth it.

more two cents
Don

[LJL]

Thanks again DDA52 I'll check into them.

[Franz]

Been lookin thru gold for over 20 years, and I like them. You do have to preinspect for flaws that may develope when the lense gets scratched, but that don't take long.

Originally posted by DDA52
Golds are plastic and require special care

Some gold filters are plastic, they are also available in glass and also require care.

[DDA52]

Originally posted by Paychk
Some gold filters are plastic, they are also available in glass and also require care.

Really? Who makes them? Never seen a glass one. Cool

https://b2b.puritanmedicalproducts.c...ec=7&catID=431

There are others too, this was just a quick search on google.

[DDA52]

Thanks Paychk
Airgas, huh? Might take a looksee one day.

[revpol]

Been using glass gold, glass silver & glass supervisions for over 30yrs now. Personally in my line of work as a boilermaker tube welder I wouldn't use a plastic filter unless there was nothing else available. When they start to warp 2 or more puddles tends to get distracting. I do use plastic clear tho. revpol

[DDA52]

Rev
Glass and heights don't mix well sometimes. Crawling around the outside of bldgs, you get bumped, dropped on, dumped on, drop your stuff etc. Like I said, I never had a lense warp with all the overhead and the heat here, sometimes over 115 deg in the shade. I guess it depends on what you're preference is and the application.

[hankj]

LJL,

Got on the bus late. Sorry.

Welcome again. Don't sell the 135's short for MIG work - pretty versatile. You need to do multi-pass welds on stock over 3/16", but all it takes is time (yeah, and wire, and gas...). Ilike my MM135 just fine, but if you can afford it, go to a 210 - aluminum at your door with a spool gun.

Be well.

hankj