View Full Version : hobart tr 250 hf

08-10-2007, 01:06 PM
i bought a hobart tr 250 hf in excellent condition for $500 with the water cooled radiator and the argon tank from a guy selling out an entire shop. i brought it home and hooked it up and the following things happened
originally the arc was really hot and the high frequency did not seem to be working. then after about a minute only the high frequency seems to be working but nothing else happens, the power for the arc has never come back on.
it has been years since i used a TIG and i dont remember much about them, now the only thing that happens is that it is like welding with 12 volts no matter where i put the settings. the arc looks like what you see at the end of a spark plug but it does not do anything to the metal.

i am not sure if it is hooked up for 220 or 440 but the welder fan and radiator pump works fine.

i installed new tungsten and collets and i had to clear the lines of the original coolant and refilled with tap water

i dont have a manual to check the wiring but i assumed that it was set up for 220 as it had a plug simillar to what is on a dryer when i got it.

i have it hooked up in my garage off of the dryer outlet with about a 20 foot 220 cord

any suggestions on what i have done wrong? or is something damaged?

08-10-2007, 02:30 PM
Mark, welcome to the forum.

It's tough to diagnose something over a forum, especially something as old as an old TR-250. Unless someone has or had a similar problem, then maybe you can work it through.

On another note, you're best bet is to call Hobart technical support. They have an old gentleman there who was great help when I had a few questions, perhaps he can help you.

The other problem you will run into is chasing down parts. I think the old fella' told me Buffalo Welding is now making or has parts for the old Hobarts.

Good luck and I wish you well.

08-10-2007, 03:15 PM
I have an AR-250-HF..

First off the levers that change the power level and the lever That switches it from AC to DC have to "click" when putting them where they belong..

My "Mid range" crapped out a few weeks ago..

It works fine on Low range..High range..

Mid does what you describe..
Not much..:rolleyes:
But that dont bother me because on Hi range it will go down to only 55 amps with the weld current knob turned down..

Have the weld current knob all the way up..
Make sure the Hi freq. switch is on either continous or start..
If that switch is off nothing happens..

Make sure the Remote/Local switch is on remote if your using the pedal..

Take the footpedal plug out of the machine and put it back in..
Bad connection with the pins can make problems also..
Check the ground cable from the machine to the clamp..
Anything loose there will be a pain in the A$$ also..

Let me know what happens..


08-16-2007, 08:34 PM
i just got back from vacation, i will try out your suggestions. thank you so much. i did not know about the clicking in on the AC DC switch
i will let you know how it works

08-24-2007, 11:52 AM
A good thing to do is to measure the 120 vac going to the circulator motor - you can get to this on the front panel of the tig. If it measures 120 vac, you can pretty well be assured the machine is wired for 220 vac. As machines in our industry go, that really is not that old and a schematic can most likely be found. In those days, Hobart built a bullet-proof machine. weldersales