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Planet X
01-20-2004, 03:48 PM
Mild steel parts and 1/8 filler rod .

Junk
01-20-2004, 11:06 PM
Looks pretty good, can you provide any details?

Planet X
01-21-2004, 12:48 AM
Junk this picture shows practice pieces that started out as two separate tee-joint horizontal position practice pieces that became one piece turned into a Fillet weld outside corner joint flat position w/filler, practice part.
The tig bead in the middle is the outside corner joint.

Planet X
01-21-2004, 12:51 AM
Here is a close-up of the 'outside corner joint' showing that I used filler-3/32 e70s-2 I think.

Planet X
01-21-2004, 01:01 AM
This picture shows same practice part, but shows closer view of the two tig beads. The one on the bottom was done in the T-joint horizontal position with smaller filler electrode than the corner joint. Notice the bead quality-yep too bad I cant' design fabbed stuff that only has outside corner joints:o

Junk my machines controls are really simple-and since this is just steel you only need one main control that is Amperage. Everything else comes down to the weldor- that is why I am practicing, I want to use some tig on a couple of projects, but the beads are not where I want them .

Planet X
01-21-2004, 01:18 AM
Originally posted by Junk
Looks pretty good, can you provide any details?

Sure, I meant to take a picture of the round tube showing the 'vee' groove that is left when you cut with a pipe cutter,but I did a bad job about that.
All materials are 1/8" wall thickness did not have exhaust tube handy.
If you look at the square tube part and follow the bead you will see some sunken areas of the bead. Well I had never used 1/8" sized filler rod before and my rod was sticking. So where those sunken areas are is where I goosed the machine (getting into my pedal) well the weld dropped into the inside of the tube .Putting mass heat into your part on the outside edge of your tubing is bad. If you start from the inside and work out like I did on this part, that is the last thing you want because the tubing has already been superheated and as you get closer to the end of tube the heat has no where to go and your puddle will either burn through or get really wide and you will lose control of it.

Mike W
01-21-2004, 03:45 PM
Looks good. Can you post some aluminum ones? I am still fighting too large a bead on a fillet weld. :)

Planet X
01-21-2004, 04:20 PM
Originally posted by Mike W
Looks good. Can you post some aluminum ones? I am still fighting too large a bead on a fillet weld. :)

I could if I had a Precision tig 275....but I don't,so I won't :(
The machine used here is an I200STL Arc one dc only 200amp inverter. Now if some of you fella's with the amazing T/A185 would put some up I for one would surely like to see the beads made on aluminum with an inverter- it is supposed to be the bomb:D

Planet X
01-23-2004, 12:26 AM
More practice: T-fillet
Horizontal
3/32 tungsten
3/32 er70s-2
1/4 mild steel material

Planet X
01-23-2004, 12:28 AM
All tig pics posted are done with air cooled torch, gas flow-20-25/ argon 100%.

redlineracer
01-23-2004, 11:29 PM
Looks pretty good! I haven't been able to get my beads as uniform as that yet but as they say "practice, practice, practice"

Dan
01-23-2004, 11:42 PM
Originally posted by Planet X
All tig pics posted are done with air cooled torch, gas flow-20-25/ argon 100%.

PlanetX,

It looks like you were running a tad bit on the cold side. Increase your current a little bit and the weld puddle will flow a little better, which in turn will make the addition of your filler rod smoother.

BTW, Im refering to the 1/4" mild steel Horizontal T joint.

Planet X
01-24-2004, 12:15 AM
Originally posted by Dan
PlanetX,

It looks like you were running a tad bit on the cold side. Increase your current a little bit and the weld puddle will flow a little better, which in turn will make the addition of your filler rod smoother.

BTW, Im refering to the 1/4" mild steel Horizontal T joint.

Yeah, I'll give it a go, these t-joints give me fits with tig. Undercut is my norm on the horizontal plate. Did you see the pic I put up a few days ago "some tig beads" post? That first picture though blurry was with filler I know it looks like I was just fusing metal , but that joint got nuked- got impatient and had the 'edge' working against me both there.

Could you post up some tig beads on some steel parts? I like using your pictures as a sorta target acquisition thing.:D

Planet X
01-24-2004, 12:27 AM
Originally posted by redlineracer
Looks pretty good! I haven't been able to get my beads as uniform as that yet but as they say "practice, practice, practice"

Thanks. That Dan fella who also replied to this post, is known to run a 'fair' bead- keep an eye out if he posts some pics.;)

Dan
01-26-2004, 07:07 AM
Originally posted by Planet X
Yeah, I'll give it a go, these t-joints give me fits with tig. Undercut is my norm on the horizontal plate. Did you see the pic I put up a few days ago "some tig beads" post? That first picture though blurry was with filler I know it looks like I was just fusing metal , but that joint got nuked- got impatient and had the 'edge' working against me both there.

Could you post up some tig beads on some steel parts? I like using your pictures as a sorta target acquisition thing.:D

PlanetX,

Here is a picture of horizontal T joint. I copied everthing that you used in your posted picture meaning: 1/4" MS, 3/32" tungsten ,and 3/32" filler.

Dan
01-26-2004, 07:12 AM
Here is one more with the same set up.

Planet X
01-26-2004, 11:20 AM
Originally posted by Dan
Here is one more with the same set up.

. Dan aka 'steady freddy'. Thanks for going out of your way to do these (beads).:cool:

Butt-jointed a couple parts yesterday and gave the part more peddle- as advised,worked good.