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steve loving
01-23-2009, 12:00 AM
boring a la bounty shear with a 8.750 dia bore burnout is t1 welded on. The burnout is 5 inches thick

Brainfarth
01-23-2009, 12:40 AM
That looks like a real beast to lug around. We do a bit of work for climax from time to time. It looks like they have some pretty nice machines.

spiral-cut-bevel
01-23-2009, 02:04 PM
slick looking machine..very cool

specter
01-23-2009, 02:12 PM
What did you use to do the welds?

The vertical welds in the 2nd picture cross brace appear runny and the one side appears like the brace kicked out of place during welding instead of being flush with the surface as the other side appears.

Joker11
01-23-2009, 02:13 PM
Not being familiar with the tool. I have no idea what I am looking at and what is being done to what.
Can someone elaborate?
It looks as thought the tool is welded to the project.

specter
01-23-2009, 02:24 PM
Not sure on my end either Joker. But it appears only a slight edge of the cross bar/support is welded. Unless its suppose to look like that.

Brainfarth
01-23-2009, 02:32 PM
Here's what they do http://www.cpmt.com/videos/bm/BB5000.wmv
You true the machine up to your hole, attach it to the piece to be bored out and drill your hole. Just gotta make sure your alignment is true.

MikeD74T
01-23-2009, 02:34 PM
The hole is being trued with a portable boring machine. The base is welded to the piece of equipment needing truing, adjusted for alignment, then the rotating bit holder is advanced thru the piece. For work too difficult to bring to a milling machine. Used a lot on construction equipment articulating joints, buckets, booms, etc. Also used to ensure multiple holes are exactly sized & aligned. Look up line boring. MikeD74T

http://www.yorkmachine.com/

steve loving
01-23-2009, 08:15 PM
its a lug but it assembles in peices. There was 1 inch of metal removed from this hole a york or climax would take a year to cut that much in a t1 burnout. The welding shop should have been closer but that is life and that is what this boring machine does well it will cut 1/4 per side in one cut.

daddy
01-23-2009, 08:20 PM
What did you use to do the welds?

The vertical welds in the 2nd picture cross brace appear runny and the one side appears like the brace kicked out of place during welding instead of being flush with the surface as the other side appears.


Specter, I do believe that the "runny" weld is just the slag coating that has not been chipped off. Probably looks nice underneath.

Before and after.

daddy
01-23-2009, 08:22 PM
its a lug but it assembles in peices. There was 1 inch of metal removed from this hole a york or climax would take a year to cut that much in a t1 burnout. The welding shop should have been closer but that is life and that is what this boring machine does well it will cut 1/4 per side in one cut.

Steve, are you saying you can increase the dia. by a half inch at a time?

Joker11
01-23-2009, 09:24 PM
Ok...what is a T1 burnout?

I don't ever get to work on crap that big anyway.....but I want to know.

denrep
01-23-2009, 09:40 PM
Joker11 - T1 is a high strength steel alloy.
A burn-out is a steel shape that has been flame cut, (burned), to an accurate shape and size by a mechanized torch or burning table.

Steveloving - Nice post of a nice rig on a nice job!
Does the feed have a separate motor?

I'll bet you know lots of center finding tricks. :drinkup:

Good Luck

steve loving
01-23-2009, 09:54 PM
i can take a 1/2 cut on a 36 or welded up bores this t1 hardend and was tough to cut but i did take about a 1/4 at a time. the first pic is a centering spiders for this bore i have set up cones for bores 2- 6 i usally dont do bores this large myself. i have pulled string and everthing else over the years to find center of bent arms etc.

steve loving
01-23-2009, 09:56 PM
forgot no it dosent have a feed motor ive been geeting to that for about 10 years. i just feed with a ratchet but i need to update.

specter
01-23-2009, 10:15 PM
Sorry about my assumption on that running weld that is why I asked what method was used for the welds. I wasn't sure if that was slag. :blush2:Guess I need to get my vision checked.

chenry
01-23-2009, 11:58 PM
put a servo feed from a bridgeport mill on there , @ 135.00 dollars.


built a few machines for everyday work using hollow shaft gear boxes and vfd drives for speed control. built a couple of single use machines for specific jobs.


do you ever use the brazed carbide bits for boring ( BR ) or just regular lathe bits ?

steve loving
01-26-2009, 05:20 PM
boring a la bounty shear with a 8.750 dia bore burnout is t1 welded on. The burnout is 5 inches thick
here is a few pics i forgot and i use brazed carbide tooling for cutting

shott8283
01-26-2009, 06:05 PM
so you have to true up the axis of the machine to the hole so when you drill it, it doesnt oblong you original hole right? what are your tolerances? we talking 1/8" 1/16"? reason why i ask is because it looks like you true the machine up and then weld the struts on to the housing so it dont move.. i would be worried about the heat moving the peice a smidge.

Oldiron2
01-26-2009, 08:33 PM
If you look at the shot showing the cutting end of his machine, you can see adjustment bolts for moving the bearing to center it. It appears he has centering bolts for the outboard bearing too, the one on the back side of the cutout. He stated earlier that he holds to 0.001" although that might have been in the other (almost duplicate) thread on this subject.

chenry
01-26-2009, 09:38 PM
http://www.newmantools.com/cttb.htm#blink


i have had real good luck with the BR & BL style, , just grind alittle flat on the tip to keep it from chipping, they have an increased top rake.

steve loving
01-27-2009, 01:05 AM
shott oldiron knows you just center the bearings then weld the machine on including drive then after cool you line up everything with your adjustments one last time. you can make slip fits press i have welded washers on to set up final cut before i got to the bore itself. Chenry seems like boring hard stuff a real sharp with to much rake chips like you say. i use ar/al and slightly round the point on harder stuff with maby 3 degree rake works pretty good i havent used the br/bl ill try them

chenry
01-27-2009, 01:30 AM
i ahve afew pieces of cleveland mo-max and some old stellite bits that would last forever.

i dont think i ever bored anything as hard as you have there.

we built a custom set up to true the bore of a 60" single ended cylinder ( large injection molding press) we used it to bore the cylinder and to hone it to final size.

never once thought to take pictures for posterity.