View Full Version : Drill Dr.

02-09-2004, 02:14 PM
What has been your experiance with this piece of engineering? I have tried several times to sharpen bits and not yet gotten a bit sharp enough to drill a hole.

02-09-2004, 02:29 PM
TOTAL piece of crap, Excellent marketing.
Must have been invented by Ron Popiel's brother, the dumb one, and Ron gave him the marketing.

fla jim
02-09-2004, 02:30 PM
What model do you have?
I have the 750. and have had good luck with it.
There is a bit of a learning curve.

wood-n steel
02-09-2004, 02:47 PM
I have found that the time spent learning how to sharpen by hand is time spent more wisley than learing how to use any drill sharpening devise

02-09-2004, 02:50 PM
I got the cheapo DD100 that requires a drill on the back end. it took me several walk-throughs to get the depth adjusted but still working on getting something sharp.
thanks for the feedback.

02-09-2004, 04:36 PM
I know a few folks that have the 500 model and the 750 model. Supposedly they are junk till you get to that level. I don't have one, but will eventually.

02-09-2004, 05:21 PM
I have the 750, and it is basically the same design as the $1000+ unit we use at the shop (OEM). The thing is great! Only thing you really have to pay attention to is the alignment deally; if it's out of alignment you'll wreck a bit pretty quick. :(

02-09-2004, 08:07 PM
Ive got a 750, & ive had no problems with sharpening 118 & 135
point bits, after the aforementioned learning curve. of course, this is with a hand drill, & not a mill or anything super accurate wish the 'wheels would last longer. (apprentice problem?)
Im still trying to get the jist of the split point feature. Prob just take some time.

Hey Frans, why the negative review??? give some feedback!


big rig guy
02-09-2004, 08:23 PM
I've got the 750 pro model as well, it came with an video and I had to watch the video a couple of times to get it figured out. It does work good, on bits larger than 1/4. The wheels tend to wear out as mine is right now, but apparrantely you can turn them upside down to get more life out of them, wish I could do that with my carbide tip blade I wrecked this morning on the chopsaw.

Anyone know of a really good drill bit sharpener up to 1500.00 I would pay that for a expert model. Would have to handle up to 1 inch bits.

Dave Haak
02-09-2004, 09:05 PM
750 Here. Works great. I agree with the learning curve comment. I don't recall wheel cost but it was way less than I expected. I'm guessing less than $15.

02-09-2004, 10:51 PM
take the time to learn to do it free hand. much more accurate. just get a drill Gage and practice. much faster and you can change angles for aluminum and SA

02-09-2004, 11:13 PM
Why the negative review, you ask?
Cause after I waited 20 minutes on a damn ladder for somebody to sharpen a friggin bit with one of those POS contraptions, I climbed down, sharpened the damn drill by hand, and then climbed back up and drilled the damn hole.
If I can see the damn drill, I can sharpen it freehand, so it will CUT. I only need my trifocular welding helmet to see the ones under 1/4".
There is only so much equipment you can carry, and I'd far rather have a decent bench grinder on the truck than 6 drill doctors.
Drill Drs are more worthless than those damn little shelves on bench grinders that are never properly adjusted, so dummys can get a friggin tool jammed in there and wreck a wheel and bend an arbour.
Learning to sharpen a drill ain't hard, if you want to learn. Hell, I learned from an old ******* who would look at every drill I sharpened, and jam it into a wheel so I had to redo the drill if he wasn't satisfied. After a few times of his doin that, I got smart and tried the drill without showing him first, and they worked just fine.
With a bench grinder, you can mount a wheel on one side for Carbide drills and save a fortune replacing them too.

wood-n steel
02-10-2004, 03:29 PM
Free hand -----
Go-franz Go
My Dad showed me how to over 40 years ago
I have sence taught 100's
Learn to do it by hand before you learn to do it with power

02-11-2004, 01:01 AM
i don't know but i need a drill dr.

now i carry titanium bits

but.when i do need to sharpen.hey man,i just get out the dang bench grinder.hah

02-11-2004, 01:01 AM
I have been sharpening drill bits by hand for 50 yrs but now I finally found out about the drill Dr. I got the model 250 handyman model. It sure works good for me. It's so easy to use if you just follow directions. I never had my bits in as good a shape as they are now. I gave one to my son and son in law and they both like them.

02-11-2004, 01:53 AM
i been doing it by grinder since 1973 :cool2:

02-11-2004, 06:19 AM
any tips on bench grinder sharpening??

02-11-2004, 11:02 AM
yeah,just sharpen where the angles on the drill bit are,common sense will tell

02-11-2004, 11:02 AM
if worn they will appear round in shape if sharpened they will be angled and sharp looking

fla jim
02-11-2004, 11:34 AM
My kids got me the Drill Dr for Christmas a couple of years ago.
a couple of quick comments
I think Franz's helpers just wanted to leave him on the ladder, while they took a break.
when I use to have good eyes I could sharpen passable bits by hand. I think the kids got me the drill dr, after trying to use bits that I sharpened freehand.
After I played around with it for a while and figured out how to use it, I'm real happy with it. It's no Darex, but a hundred and change, beats a grand and change.
I even sharpen Tapcon carbide drill bits, that I used to throw away.
The bits that I sharpened with it drill real good holes, pretty close to the desired diameter, a lot closer than my freehand attempts
If any of you'all have access to "HOME SHOP MACHINIST" the July/August issue had a good article on it.
Here's a link to their webb sight

02-11-2004, 12:45 PM
Careful there Jim, first it's a Drill Doctor, and next them kids will take the car away from you down there in the land of the hanging chad.
Join Parents Against Children NOW, before it's too late.

fla jim
02-11-2004, 12:49 PM
They'll need to start worrying if I trade my truck in on a Grand Marquies, And move up to Beverly Hills with ole Marcopolo:cool2:

Mike W
02-11-2004, 04:13 PM
Here is a 1" drill that I did on my modified General Tool device. I use the Drill Dr for 1/2" down to what I can hold in a pin vise. :)

Mike W
02-11-2004, 04:18 PM
Trying this again.....

02-11-2004, 05:55 PM
Free hand here, we had a drill dr, tossed it in the trash

Id like to find a way to do them on the surface grinder like i do the mill bits.

02-11-2004, 05:57 PM
WOW! that looks like a neat project...what angle do you set the grind to?:cool:

Mike W
02-11-2004, 06:17 PM
The standard one........what the heck is it....59 1/2*....? You can adjust it to whatever you want. The top piece of angle is hinged. I had a more elegant clamp made then found out that a hose clamp worked better. :rolleyes:

I got a piece of 5/16 key stock so I can use the original feed screw to advance the drill.

02-11-2004, 11:58 PM
Originally posted by fla jim
They'll need to start worrying if I trade my truck in on a Grand Marquies, And move up to Beverly Hills with ole Marcopolo:cool2:

kids?.liar.your only kids are your cotton puppets.lieing sack of cow manure:blob3:

fla jim
02-12-2004, 12:19 AM
Didlysquatt, Bigolguy, mrimpact or what ever you want to call yor self,
Or I guess just Troll will do
Why don't you go back under your bridge, or bird shop, or what ever. And leave normal people alone:nono:

02-12-2004, 12:57 AM
Hey Jim I got a 750 for Christmas from my daughters. I haven't tried it out yet , do you have any pointers on how to use it or set it up? Can't tell yet if its our old Troll,but he usually gives himself away pretty quickly with his attitude and non-typing skills. David

Mike W
02-12-2004, 05:04 AM
echo8287, watch the video and you shouldn't have any problems. I got the 500. No matter what they say; I think it works great. I use a Starret pin vise to get under the 3/32 bottom limit. You have to align the drill by eye with the pin vise.

02-12-2004, 01:35 PM
Here's another review on the Drill Dr. Since I don't have an old timer to show me how to do it by hand I might just buy one and see if it works.


02-12-2004, 02:50 PM
59 1/2 degrees is the standard, unless you're countersinking. 82 degrees is fairly standard for that, unless you're dealing with countersunk aircraft fasteners. Most of them are 100 degrees to improve bearing properties in thin aluminum sheet.

02-12-2004, 03:27 PM
Thanks olpilot, time to get out my protractor and do some checking. I might try to build an angle iron jib like Mike's; my hands aren't very steady anymore.

Mike W
02-12-2004, 04:19 PM
Ryel, it will be easier if you can get the entire General Tool unit. It will do up to.....9/16? as is. I just made a new top out of 1" angle welded to 5/16 keystock so you can still use the advance wheel assembly to feed the drill to the grinder.

I also made a new pivot for the base. The old one worked but had more spring to it then I liked.

02-12-2004, 05:09 PM
Mike said: it will be easier if you can get the entire General Tool unit...

OK, which "General Tool unit" would that be? What do I call it? Would you be willing to walk through what you did under the "Projects" part of the list?

Mike W
02-12-2004, 06:39 PM
Look for a drill bit sharpener attachment for a bench grinder. General Tool was one brand, I know of one other that wasn't built as well. I bought mine many years ago so I don't know if they are still around.

You could duplicate the whole works if you had to. I will take some more pics. Regards, Mike

Mike W
02-12-2004, 06:43 PM
Hey, I found one, $28.99.http://www.tools-plus.com/woodworking-mach---access--sharpening.html

02-12-2004, 06:56 PM
Thats pretty slick. Is the footing slotted to bolt onto the grinder tool mount?

Mike W
02-13-2004, 04:54 AM
Yes, I think it is a good idea to use a cup wheel and mount it on the side of the grinder.

02-13-2004, 01:40 PM
I've got a 750, and I love it.

I don't bother sharpening small bits, 1/4 down, because the seem to break or get lost all too quickly.

They make a coarser stone, geared towards the bigger bits, and I think I will get that when the need arises, as I find myself sharpening a fair bit (pardon the pun) in the 7/16 to 3/4 range.

Anyone sharpen drill bits on a belt sander instead of the grinder wheel? Thats how I do my 3/4 and up bits, I seem to do allright.

02-13-2004, 02:33 PM
Just a note on the cheap one...the sharpening wheel is a sandpaper cylinder whereas on the 750 it's a diamond cutting wheel. Big difference.

Bob Sigmon
02-13-2004, 06:47 PM
I just got a 750 and it works very well. It does have a diamond wheel and it took all of 15 seconds to set up.

Franz, I think your crew was giving you some S..T. You should place the Drill DR up their butts and sharpen up their attitude. If they did have the cheapy, it's crap.

The 500 and the 750 with the diamond wheel seem to work very well 118deg, 135deg and split points with no problem.

I was actually quite surprised when it was so easy to operate and did such a great job.

As a side note - Enco has the 750 on sale for $119 Model #890-9007

Bob Sigmon

02-14-2004, 11:00 AM
I have the 250 Handyman model and it does have the diamond wheel. It does an exellent job. It makes a very fine precision cutting edge. When I sharpened them by hand on even a finer grinding wheel they were not near as smooth as with the Drill Dr. I heard that the older ones did not have the diamond wheel.

02-14-2004, 03:51 PM
My 250 Handyman has the diamond wheel, too.
Other than being a little bit underpowered, it does a good job, especially considering what I paid for it.
I mainly use up bits 3/16th's & smaller, rarely anything over 1/2 inch.
There is a re-seller store a few blocks from my house called the Handyman Depot. They buy truckloads
from Menard's out of Wisconsin - store returns, overstocks, damaged merchandise or whatever
Menard's decides to dump.
Sometimes they throw away half the stuff, sometimes they get amazing deals. I paid $11.96 plus tax.
Don't think it was ever used. Otoh, sometimes I get burned. A year or so ago they were going
to throw out one of those little 90 dollar pressure washers; I brought it home to see if it was fixable,
or to see if there was anything useful inside it; it worked just fine. They must have plugged it into
a bad outlet or something.

02-22-2004, 09:15 PM
We make the wheels at the plant where I work. They are CBN not natural diamond. We keep one at our bridgeport, the line up jig is the key to get it right. And it it STILL made in USA!!!

Mike W
02-23-2004, 12:41 AM
What is CBN and how do you make the wheels, thanks. :)

03-15-2004, 06:25 PM
Had an ole timer teach me by hand 30 years ago. Need a good star wheel dresser to make your bench grinder smooth then practice rolling bit same on both sides, don't get too much angle on the gland or it will catch when going through the hole. Once you get it only seconds to dress up, don't wait till bit is in bad shape. Also go slow and don't let it get too hot, it will take the temper out of it and won't stay sharp very long, good luck

03-15-2004, 11:13 PM
I wonder if the Drill Dr. Franz had the problem with was one of the early ones. When they first came out, they put out a whole bunch of defective ones. I'm not sure which model, but there used to be an article about it on their website. Unless I heard wrong, Drill Dr. is made by a subsiary of Darex, which is one of the bigger makers of industrial sharpening equipment. A friend of mine used to own a tool sharpening service, before he retired and sold it. He had a bunch of money tied up in a lot of equipment. He had Darex equipment for drill and mill sharpening. I ended up buying a 750 on his recommendation. He said the Darex rep gave him a 750 and he still has it at home. He always said it was really hard to tell the differnce between a bit sharpened on the Darex versus one done on the Drill Dr. He did say the DrillDr. was more technique sensitive than the Darex, but he said watching the video would show you what to look for. Years ago, my Dad showed me how to sharpen bits by hand on the bench grinder. I could always get a bit sharpened - after several unsuccessful tries. With the DD750, I can do it in much less time and they drill better too. As I've stated before, I had a box that had several pounds of mine and my Dad's old drill bits. I spent almost a whole day just playing with the DD and sharpened a bunch of bits. The thing has probably paid for itself many times. Yes, it's another tool to keep track of, but I would consider it almost as valuable as my cordless drill. How did man live before cordless drills? :D.

Allen T.

03-15-2004, 11:41 PM
I got a 750 and it works well. I did get corse stone but havnt used it yet. Its slow when bits are damaged but great for touch ups. I would say its worth it.

03-16-2004, 01:11 AM
The Drill Dr is like most doctors I meet, overinflated ego and totally underperforming.
I actually picked one up that got thrown at a block wall, and looked it over, and Drill Dr ain't no Darex.
All that is in there is a tiny wheel that follows whatever you shove in there. If the drill is improperly angled when it goes in, it will be wrong when it comes out.
I'd far rather have the bench grinder on the service truck than a drill doctor. Of course, back in my younger days, I'd just lock the weld grinder into the pipe vise and sharpen drills on the job to piss folks off, but that got tired fairly quick, so now I use the bench grinder. Hell, it pisses off most folks when I pull that out of the compartment and plug it into the generator on the truck anyhow, and if the drill is busted, I might just pull the chop saw out to square it up. Naw, I'm too old to sharpen drills on a chop saw blade, might need my trifocular welding helmet for that.

03-16-2004, 04:14 AM
I can sharpen a bit with a 4 1/2 too, bit in one hand and grinder in the other,, dont need no damm vise,,, hahahahahahahahahahaha

03-16-2004, 02:04 PM
4 1/2, that's a kid grinder S, try doin it with a 7" in one hand and the drill in the other hand.

03-16-2004, 11:43 PM
S & Franz,

No cheating while you're doing that - the grinder has to be unsupported, you can't rest it on a table or something to steady it. That would be fun to watch :D.

Allen T.

03-17-2004, 12:57 AM
'Bout as much fun as the belt sander races down the hallway. Guy with the longest extension cord usually wins.

03-17-2004, 03:08 AM
OP that could explain a lot of those lost shipment storys about FedEx, but how in hell do you guys manage to loose tires?

03-17-2004, 01:05 PM
Franz, I think it has to do with differences in international spelling and the bill of lading. We ship 'em out as "tires" but when they get to the UK, their warehouse guys are looking for "tyres". Same thing with "al-loo-min-ium". Or maybe our paperwork is the wrong color - or colour.

Seriously, I'm glad I'm not in that end of our business. For 20 years, in Aircraft Structures Engineering, I was the "King of Kracks and Korrosion" and supported our jet engine shop on welding repair issues. Now I do special aircraft projects - sorta' the FedEx Skunk Works. It's a lot more fun. Right now I'm doing studies of the Boeing 777 configured as a tanker. I'll have to leave it at that.

03-17-2004, 01:16 PM
OP, there was some serious FedEx bashing goin on the dodgepowerwagon site last night cause FedEx lost 1 of 4 tires shipped.
All I know is after too many years of United Parcel Smashers makin my life hell, I switched to FedEx Ground, and the stuff don't get smashed. The frightening part is when I drop something at the counter the employees are polite, and helpful. That would NEVER happen at United Parcel Smashers.
777 tankers, hmmm, since we both worked as mercenarys for the same outfit in the past, and given the diminished capacity of your former branch, as well as the worn out 141 tankers, could there be a contract coming? Seems like most of the flight crews already work for FedEx, at least the ones I know.

03-22-2004, 04:00 PM
I've managed to sharpen twist drills on the grinder. I just taught myself from internet articles, and so far I've managed to sharped dull and broken bits so that they cut well and make as round a holes as the brand new ones.

I'm sure the old hands would look at my work and laugh, but I'm going to stick to my method. I can do it anywhere there's a stable grinding surface, and I can't pick pockets or float coins so I need some type of fancy trick to impress the ladies.

03-22-2004, 06:23 PM
If you can learn to lick your elbow with your toung, like S does, that'll impress a lot of wimmen.

Charles Sand
03-23-2004, 09:41 PM
you are going to sharpen a bit by hand so that both cutting edges are completely symetrical . If you want to kid yourself into thinking otherwise, go ahead. It's a free country.:o

03-26-2004, 11:31 PM
All it takes is a drill guage - just eyeballing it I get round holes after sharpening by hand.

All I did was read an article and voila - 1st time was a charm.

04-01-2004, 11:22 AM
Originally posted by Charles Sand
you are going to sharpen a bit by hand so that both cutting edges are completely symetrical . If you want to kid yourself into thinking otherwise, go ahead. It's a free country.:o

A Drill Dr doesn't create completely symmetrical edges though. The test is, are the holes round, and can you make more than one a day? :p :waving:

04-09-2010, 09:12 AM
750 here and works great, But just like any other tool you need to learn how to use it and work within the tools limitations (yes EVERY tool has limitations). Yes I do know how to hand sharpen a drill from my tool room days, and yes it is quicker than setting up a machine, but I do think accuracy suffers. If not why do tool rooms have drill sharpners costing $$$$$$$$.?

04-09-2010, 10:30 PM
I bought a drill doctor about 7-8 years ago. I watched the video and still struggled a bit to get it to work right - as soon as I finally figured out the trick to it (which is really not a trick at all, I just didn't understand how it was telling me to set up the bit) then the thing works like gangbuster.

That said - I've got another problem with it. I've used it maybe 3-4 times in 8 years. It's really a tool that a hobbyist doesn't use all that often. And each time, I have to spend a few minutes figuring it out again. If I know what I do now, I would just borrow one from somebody. When I first got it, I sharpened an entire box full of old dull bits. It took me probably 2 hours to get the first bit right - the about another 2 horus to do almost 100 more. Every one of th bits that I've used worked like new

04-09-2010, 11:20 PM
-the web at the end of tha bit is very important , u can feel it dig and want to pull/dig/cut against the tip of your finger with just a little quarter turn. NOT HOT AFTER U SHARPN IT , 1. light pressure 2. and the speed of the grinding stone , both together sharpen and keep it cool at tha same time.

as said above and before in this thread , after alot of experience you end up sharpening by hand/eye....and your very happy

i know im just a painter , but im really good at some shiiiiiit

04-10-2010, 12:31 AM
anyone notice this is a 6 yea old thread? almost to the day?

Bob the Welder
04-10-2010, 09:02 AM
Yeah, but it is still an interesting read. After all, this was posted before I became a regular reader and long before I joined the board.

That said, I've had a 750 for a couple of years and love it. Just as stated, it has a short learning curve. Once that is mastered, it does a great job sharpening drills. I would recommend one to anybody that has to sharpen drills on a regular basis. Could be a real time and money saver.

04-10-2010, 09:50 AM
Like the others have said, once you learn to align the bit in the chuck corectly, you will always have sharp bits. Mine does the split point too, very nice for drilling holes on unindexted sheet metal. No bit wandering before it starts to bite into the metal. My drill dr mainly sharpens 3/16 bits used to drill holes for pop rivits.

04-10-2010, 06:20 PM
I have the 750X i messed around with it for a day and a half trying all sorts of drill bits. over 100. i really gave it the college try. after all that time im still 3 times as fast and good with a bench grinder and free hand.

I Bought one of those high end drill bit grinders the brand escapes me, at an auction years ago and i still do better by hand.

04-11-2010, 02:30 PM
Got a Dr Doc 750X two days ago. First couple of attempts were terrible. It actually ground the end flat!?!? Finally figured out what I was doing wrong. (RTMF...carefully!) After that it worked perfectly!

Today I needed to drill about 40 1/16" dia holes in a piece of 1" sch 40 pipe (burner for gas grill). Grabbed a crummy old drill from the "old drill box" and ran it thru the Dr. Doctor. Took less than a minute. Drilled really nice. Decided to try the split point feature. WOW! Much better. Nice clean hole, very little effort, no screech or squeel, smooth continuous swarf.

Time will tell but so far I'm very happy with it.

04-13-2010, 05:51 PM
According to this, the same company that makes Darex makes the Drill Dr. See 3:40


04-13-2010, 06:01 PM
My Dr. is also in the trash. Big drills are easy,smaller than 3/16' have to put on the glasses.

04-13-2010, 08:38 PM
According to this, the same company that makes Darex makes the Drill Dr. See 3:40


Yes, Darex makes the Drill Dr. I've got both a Drill Dr, and Darex setup, and the technology is identical. The Darex is made from metal, and the cams work a little differently, but the motion that the drill bit goes through as its ground is the same, and if you're familiar with one machine, you'll be fine with the other. All I use is the Drill Dr (I got the Darex at a flea market, and it sits in a pile in the corner). The only thing I like more about the Darex, is the solid metal chuck that holds the bits.

04-14-2010, 09:39 PM
I picked up a model 300 on a clearance sale for about $30.00 and on 1/4"+ I can get a great sharpening about once in 3 tries. Haven't had much luck on smaller bits

04-25-2010, 09:56 AM
Several people have suggested they have had success with the DR "after they figured it out". I thought I would offer "what I figured out" to possibly shorten the learning curve of others.

I have both the older and the newer style Drill Doctor 750 and love it. The key for me was to spend a little extra time making sure the bit was in the holder correctly. I put the bit in the chuck and tighten the chuck only to the point where the bit is just less than "snug". What I am looking for is that chuck jaws are holding the bit concentric with the chuck but the bit is still free to slide back and forth - allowing the depth to be set properly - and what for me turned out to be the really important part - free enough to allow the metal spring fingers to rotate the bit to index it in the chuck properly. Then carefully tighten the chuck to making sure that neither the depth nor the indexing changes.

Once I figured out that ensuring the metal springs had accurately positioned the flutes - and watching how they worked via the opening and possibly a little manual assist of the bit rotation to help the springs - my success rate went to 100%. I have an inexpensive "115 piece HHS titanium set" from Northern tool plus a couple of pounds of bits in a bread pan inherited from my dad and grandfather. With the 750 all of the bits have become useful shop tools.