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duvlitho
06-12-2006, 10:50 PM
Fellas....

I am new to this forum and welding. I picked up a used Miller wildcat 225g with an Onan P216 motor. It wasn't running when I got it but a good carb overhaul and common maintenance items it's running like a champ. My brother-in-law who is a certified SMAW welder came over to give me some quick tips. It welded fine until I put back all the sheet metal on the engine. The problem I'm experiencing now is after it starts the engine dies when the switch is put to 100% or auto idle. If the start switch if put between start and 100% its runs at 100%. Where is the PCB that controls the auto idle?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your time.

Dustin

duvlitho
06-12-2006, 11:32 PM
Problem solved! :D I disconnected the wires that connect to the rotary switch one by one and cleaned the surfaces and connectors. Fired up just like it should. That was easy....now to figure how to lay a good bead. I got this welder for $350 because the guy I got it from got frustrated on working on it. It sat for about a year. The only items I had to purchase was new plugs, wires, replace all the fuel line, fuel filter, air filter and some nuts that fit onto the coil.

My ultimate goal is to build a pipe fence around my property. I got a 1.25 lot. I need my bro-in-law to give some help on welding fence pipe. Maybe next year my girls could get some horses..... uh.... I shouldn't even think about that yet!

dustin

MAC702
06-13-2006, 12:31 AM
Wildcat or Bobcat?

That's a great deal, considering what you had to do to get it running! SWEET!

Well, since we were so helpful on this one, welcome aboard and keep in touch!

DDA52
06-13-2006, 01:16 AM
I almost got a Wildcat. Don't remember what the differeces are, but there aren't many as I recall.

FWIW, you can download the owners manuals for it on the Miller site. Good things to have, esp on an older machine.:D

MAC702
06-13-2006, 02:29 AM
Yep, Wildcat. I'm too young...

Here's your manual: http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o427_mil.pdf

duvlitho
06-13-2006, 02:29 PM
Thanks for the link!

I figured the price was good enough just to have an 8000 watt generator!

I need to go buy some pipe to practice welding pipe. Do any of you guys care to share your pipe fitting methods? Should I invest in a pipe notcher or will my port-a-band be able to get me close enough?


Dustin

duvlitho
06-14-2006, 11:03 AM
Fellas....I can't find any documentation on this Onan P216 engine. What oil and how much does it need? I'd like to change it this weekend before I run it for any length of time. Thanks.

Dustin

Roy Hodges
06-14-2006, 03:24 PM
IF you don't find out before then, just change it, using the FINEST 100% synthetic you can get . just pour the new oil in a couple ounces at a time , checking the dip stick as you go . I would use a 10-30 or even a 15-40 or 15-50 (if fully synthetic ) . as a side issue , i used pennzoil( full synthetic ) 5-50 in my lawn mower (they are air cooled ,as are the onans ) the SAME oil for 5 years, and it stayed nice and clean . the engine still runs good, even though the rest of the mower is falling apart . an, oh ! i still have some of that SAME quart of oil left . consumption was almost nill. and I'm not even a Pennzoil fan - maybe I should be ?

DDA52
06-15-2006, 01:53 AM
Fellas....I can't find any documentation on this Onan P216 engine. What oil and how much does it need? I'd like to change it this weekend before I run it for any length of time. Thanks.

Dustin

1.8 qts with filter change.....1.5 without. Oil filter is a Onan 122-0645 or Fram PH-46. I run straight 30 in mine. It gets hot here and it will handle the heat well. 10W-30 is OK for temps in the 0° to 80°F range. 30W is 30° to 100°+F ..next is 40W at 60° to 100° + and lastly 50w at 80° to 100°+......100° is as high as the scale went. That is what Onan recommends. I see little advantage in synthetic in these units. The oil change intreval is short...50 hrs. Straight dino juice is good enough for me. Anything but Pennzoil for me. Too many gummed up engines for me to use that stuff. The dino vs. synthetic debate has raged for a long time. These units don't seem to care what you use, just don't go switching back and forth..they won't like that. As for cost...at 50 hrs, the dino will win with economy. I have yet to see any hard evidence that the synthetics extent thelife of the Onans. I have seen them hit 6000+ hrs on dino juice, though. That is good enough for me.:D

duvlitho
06-16-2006, 07:17 PM
DDA52...thanks for the informative post! I couldn't find any capacity quantities anywhere.

Dustin

duvlitho
06-24-2006, 07:25 PM
Any of you fellas know which MIG attachment will work with this machine? Anyone have a used one for sale?

Dustin

MAC702
06-24-2006, 08:14 PM
Does it have a remote connection? Or will you need something like a voltage-sensing SuitCase? Check out the Miller Extreme 12VS. SWEET!! If I didn't already own a Lincoln LN-25 (also a highly recommended unit) I'd have one of those.

Do you need to MIG with the full power of your machine? If not, you can always just plug a HH140 or a MM175 into its generator for a lot less money.

TxRedneck
06-25-2006, 11:02 AM
The wildcat will be like the bobus, I thought they were the same, but wild was a generation before. I dont rememeber. Anyway, like the bobus the LN-25 voltage sensing will work, so will the miller suitcase VS feeders. There is an older unit DDA52 is using, an SP something or another. ITs a VS model as well. They work well

DDA52
06-25-2006, 11:46 AM
I am running an 8VS suitcase and a S-32P12 feeder on my Bobcat. Both are voltage sensing. They handle self shielded and dual shield very well. Solid wire and gas not so hot...or actually too hot. Have yet to short circuit....globular transfer and spray transfer are no problem, though. The min. voltage these feeders work on is 15vdc. That is too hot for short circuit on thin material, unless you are running big wire...that isn't something I have tried yet. Like Mac said, the 140 class or even 175 would be better for thin material. I have a MM135 for just that sort of situation.:D