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Dry Super
12-18-2015, 11:33 PM
Hi
I recently practice to Tig welding steel,
How to weld good bead?
The surface not clear? overheat? shielding gas not enough?
please help! thank you!

1.2mm steel plate
T joint
1.6 tungsten
1.2 filler rod
8 cfh argon

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motolife313
12-18-2015, 11:51 PM
Did you grind mile scale? You should have a #4 cup at that cfh. Looks pretty good tho, you have a nice consitant bead height almost. Good job man!

Dry Super
12-19-2015, 12:07 AM
Hi motolife313
I just use Cleaning Naphtha to clear the surface of steel.
I use #7 Cup, maybe I will try smaller cup.

Thank you

motolife313
12-19-2015, 12:12 AM
Just bump up the flow to 15 cfh. You must grind mile scale with in 1/2" of the weld. Black thick grinder black works best for me, then wipe it down with acetone, Everytime. I use 5 cup with gas lense at 10-11 cfh. Works good for me and saves gas

B_C
12-19-2015, 01:04 AM
Looks a bit cold to me ( weld dabs are clumped up) You didnt mention what weld amps you used but I would rev that pup up to at least 125 or more and use the pedal to get the correct wet out going. as mentioned sanding the mill scale off is critical with tig

Oscar
12-19-2015, 01:11 AM
You need to do this to your steel ALWAYS when you TIG weld
http://bestanglegrinder.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/angle-grinders-300x225.jpg


https://youtu.be/UNAAhwieNhU

Oscar
12-19-2015, 01:15 AM
Hi motolife313
I just use Cleaning Naphtha to clear the surface of steel.
I use #7 Cup, maybe I will try smaller cup.

Thank you

Cleaning insufficient. You don't have to switch to a smaller cup, it won't help lack of technique. A #7 is just fine with about 10-15 CFH (depending on joint and ambient/environment conditions), just make sure you are not extending the tungsten farther than about 3/16" and no more than about 1/8" arc length.

DSW
12-19-2015, 04:41 AM
One thing I notice is that your filler rod is the same thickness as your base material. That makes it really tough to melt the filler rod with the puddle like you should be doing. If you are hot enough to melt the filler, you are probably too hot on the plates. I'll bet a part of your problem is that you are melting the filler with the arc and dripping molten metal onto cold plates.

It is much easier to melt the filler with the puddle when the filler rod is smaller in diameter than the plate thickness.

Dry Super
12-19-2015, 11:09 AM
Thank you all
I think I know how to weld it better.
Very useful information.

B_C
12-19-2015, 07:12 PM
Great send us a CAKE....

Dry Super
12-20-2015, 11:55 AM
Update:
original condition:
No grind mill scale
1.2mm steel plate
T joint
1.6 tungsten
1.2 filler rod
8 cfh argon
#7 cup

New condition:
grinding mill scale
1.2mm steel plate
T joint
1.6 tungsten
1.2 filler rod (I have no smaller rod)
10 cfh argon
#7 cup
65~80Amp

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It is looking better, but the bead not good enough.
I think my hand is unstable...
Have any advice?

Thank you!

to B_C: the CAKE will go bad, because I deliver it from Taiwan.

Oscar
12-20-2015, 01:01 PM
take a picture of where you are placing your hand, and how you are "propping" it, as in how and where you are supporting your hand that holds the tig torch. Then you will get some good advice to steady your hand, perhaps.

motolife313
12-20-2015, 01:59 PM
You are not consitant yet, put the machine too 80 amps and floor the pedal all the way for the first 2" or so then work the pedal as needed even tho you might not need to work it besides taper off at end of course. I tried 65 amps yesterday on this same setup and 65 was too slow and 100 was pretty good but a tad much. I only had 1/16 filler and at 65 amps it was cooling the puddle down pretty fast for me. 80 amps 1/16 is fine or 90 amps maybe. Try too keep the torch striaght as possible and filler perpendicular to the tungsten.

B_C
12-20-2015, 02:11 PM
Doesn't look too bad, actually seen production welds with less cosmetics....Just concentrate on being smooth

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Dry Super
01-14-2016, 01:20 PM
Hello I am coming again

Material:
4130 Cr-mo tube, O.D=1", thick=0.9mm(0.035")
Torch:
1/16" Tungsten, 1.0mm filler(my smallest rod), gas lens, #7
Setting:
Pulse function
2 pps, 65~70amp, 30% background, 14CFH Argon
Machine No peak time, No foot control

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I had read other threads and have some idea,
The bead color is gray, so i think need to decrease the temp,
1.Is torch speed too slow?
2.Or need to fill more rod to decrease Temp?
Or other advices?

Thank you!

scramblerj
01-19-2016, 06:52 PM
I noticed with my tig welding that more amps and smaller filler rod helped when my bead looked lumpy like that. Also pulsing 2pps slows down your speed which would put more heat into the metal.

Try no pulse, more amps, smaller filler.

shovelon
01-19-2016, 07:42 PM
^^^^^What he said, and up your argon to somewhere 18cfh. 2pps pulse would only piss me off. Better without it. Anything less than 40pps is useless anyway IMO.

weldypants
01-19-2016, 08:37 PM
Seems like you should walk before you run here ....
If you can't do fillet welds, tube joints shouldn't be your next exercise.....
Back to the basics.
Forget pulse - its a tool used to supplement your existing skills when needed - not for what you are doing.
Looks like you are not only low on shielding gas, but I would guess your electrode angle is very inconsistent too (would explain the erratic toes of the weld)
Same goes for any discipline - start with the basics - once you are proficient with those - THEN progress to something more difficult.
The basics like running a straight bead on flat plate, are what your fundamentals are made up of. If you don't have the muscle memory, seat-time, experience, etc to run a simple straight bead on flat plate, why progress to fillets? It all translates to the "more difficult" positions.....
1 amp per .001 of thickness is a decent rule of thumb for mild steel - get you in the ball park anyways....
15-20cfh (NOT LPH!) works fine for a #8 gas lens (my go to)

Dry Super
01-19-2016, 08:52 PM
Hello
Before I read new reply, I had tried NO Pulse,

No pulse
40~45 Amp,
Torch:
1/16" Tungsten, 1.0mm filler(my smallest rod), gas lens, #7
Setting:
14CFH Argon
No foot control

I find the bead is better than before what I welded,
The puddle is moving more smooth.

but in my mind, I think the Pulse function is used in welding the thin material? :confused:

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weldermike
01-19-2016, 09:25 PM
Clean mill scale off and watch everything all at the same time. Steady heat and steady feed. So many variables to explain when you are just starting out, but practice practice practice, and time is what it comes down too bud.
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Dry Super
01-19-2016, 10:33 PM
Thank you all. :)

@scramblerj
I had tried no pulse, Yes! it is good for me.

@shovelon
Next time I will try to up argon to 18 cfh and forget 2 pps~~

@weldypants
ya, I need spend time to practice running straight bead and forget pulse, electrode angle.


@weldermike
OMG~ Amazing bead,
I want to know the welding condition is right or not,
If my welding information is wrong, I still don't know how to make progress in welding.


See you next time...