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motolife313
12-29-2015, 11:08 PM
Will Ti be a good candidate for a cup?1305461i couple make at least 5 cups and have a long

motolife313
12-29-2015, 11:18 PM
That pic is pretty blurry. But it says 69$ 12"

Oscar
12-29-2015, 11:28 PM
How are you gonna insulate it from the collet body?

Mr. Smith
12-29-2015, 11:31 PM
How are you gonna insulate it from the collet body?

Don't be a luddite.

1305511

motolife313
12-29-2015, 11:37 PM
i was hoping to screw it right on just like a pink cup

motolife313
12-29-2015, 11:38 PM
I heard spark plug lubricant is a insulator

Oscar
12-29-2015, 11:42 PM
i was hoping to screw it right on just like a pink cup

pink alumina cups screw on to a brass/copper collet body because aluminum oxide is not electrically conductive, ie: an insulator. If your cup is a conductor, then the collet-body becomes one with the cup. Not too good if the arc shorts to the cup.

Mr. Smith
12-29-2015, 11:43 PM
i was hoping to screw it right on just like a pink cup

Serious question: Why? You're looking at a round bar of which you're going to machine away 85% or more. The cost in time and materials will be exorbitant, probably crossing the border into absurd. And for what? To say that you made a titanium cup?

motolife313
12-29-2015, 11:51 PM
pink alumina cups screw on to a brass/copper collet body because aluminum oxide is not electrically conductive, ie: an insulator. If your cup is a conductor, then the collet-body becomes one with the cup. Not too good if the arc shorts to the cup.what do you think could happen?

motolife313
12-29-2015, 11:55 PM
Serious question: Why? You're looking at a round bar of which you're going to machine away 85% or more. The cost in time and materials will be exorbitant, probably crossing the border into absurd. And for what? To say that you made a titanium cup?well if I could find a 1" od 3/8 Id I would like to use that over solid. The cup would only come out too about 10$ a piece and some of my time. And wouldn't have too worry about it braking and maybe it will be better. And I want a long gas lense cup. And the od of the Ti above is .875 and my of on my tig cup is .800 so not much would go to waste on the od

Sharon Needles
12-29-2015, 11:57 PM
what do you think could happen?

Anytime you were in a tight spot or tried to walk it, the cup would try to weld itself to your project. You'd have to isolate it like a MIG nozzle, check out the back of one.

motolife313
12-30-2015, 12:00 AM
The cup is not really grounded to anything tho right?

Sharon Needles
12-30-2015, 12:04 AM
The cup is not really grounded to anything tho right?

The cup would be energized just like your tungsten. If it touched or got closer to the base metal than your tungsten, all the current running through your tungsten would try running through the cup to the metal, probably blowing out a decent chunk of it.

motolife313
12-30-2015, 12:07 AM
Nature of the beast I guess. That sucks. I need a long cup and like gas lense, that's the main reason. No one local has on

motolife313
12-30-2015, 12:09 AM
What do mig cup have on the inside? Those glass cups are spend yang figured a Ti one would look sweet

motolife313
12-30-2015, 12:11 AM
Unless I came up with a oring design like Michael furick. That would be sweet!!

MikeGyver
12-30-2015, 12:11 AM
Whats wrong with all the other stuff on the market..?

motolife313
12-30-2015, 12:14 AM
Spendy mike. And brakeable

7A749
12-30-2015, 12:17 AM
Back in the day Union Carbide sold armored alumina cups. These had a metal band covering around the outside of them for rough environments. Still, the collet body and energized parts of the torch were isolated from the metal part on the cup. I believe they were slightly crimped on. I had some at one time, but they're long gone otherwise I would post a pic for illustrative purposes.

If you could find a way to insulate it, I can see trying it as a challenging little project. If it's not insulated, you will have all kinds of problems with HF transfer and possible arcing to your grounded materials.

Subscribed...

Sharon Needles
12-30-2015, 12:27 AM
What do mig cup have on the inside? Those glass cups are spend yang figured a Ti one would look sweet

MIG nozzles have a thread on or slip fitting in the back (to allow attaching to the diffuser on the gun) that's isolated from the nozzle itself by some sort of white material.

motolife313
12-30-2015, 12:31 AM
I would need to oring it or maybe phenolic, and come up with diffuser then.

Oscar
12-30-2015, 01:02 AM
Like I said, you need to insulate it from the collet body to prevent the electricity traveling through the cup to the collet body instead of the tungsten.

shovelon
12-30-2015, 01:40 AM
Like I said, you need to insulate it from the collet body to prevent the electricity traveling through the cup to the collet body instead of the tungsten.

Yup. Otherwise cup becomes the electrode.

burns
12-30-2015, 02:53 AM
They make long ceramic cups. But if I were in need of a long, specialty cup, and I didn't want to buy something that's already available, I might try pressing something onto and existing ceramic cup which gives you the correct length. It would be insulated and cheaper/faster than trying to make your own from scratch. Ceramic cylinders are fairly strong when put in compression evenly. Whatever you use will get horribly oxidized, more likely melted, within a few beads. Even if you find a way to insulate a Ti cup it will only look good until you strike the first bead. I'm sure everyone here has had a glowing ceramic cup and they can handle 3x the heat of any metallic that is readily available or machinable.

That Guy There
12-30-2015, 04:24 AM
Ti cups have been made before by toxicfab, he no longer makes Ti cups though not sure why. Here is his site www.radweldingsupplies.com

manning
12-30-2015, 08:56 AM
Ti cups have been made before by toxicfab, he no longer makes Ti cups though not sure why. Here is his site www.radweldingsupplies.com

He sold them, but I don't think he made them. I think that Ti cups were sold during a short partnership with another guy.

NinjaRay
12-30-2015, 09:48 AM
alumina, chromium oxide mixed into a binder and anyone could make their own ti cups....

motolife313
12-30-2015, 10:32 AM
I couldn't find any of his Ti cups but found some super spendy alumnina cups. I would put him out of selling cups if I made some good Ti cups and sold them for around 10- 30$ Each. 1305621

motolife313
12-30-2015, 10:33 AM
I guess my new I phone 6 takes blurry screen shots. Stuff just gets crapier and crapier

motolife313
12-30-2015, 10:34 AM
alumina, chromium oxide mixed into a binder and anyone could make their own ti cups....
Maybe I'll just mix that up in a bowl

NinjaRay
12-30-2015, 10:42 AM
about 400 bucks of materials on ebay could yield enough cups to probably buy a dynasty 700 @ toxicfab prices :cool2:. I should start making some :laugh:

motolife313
12-30-2015, 10:49 AM
They make long ceramic cups. But if I were in need of a long, specialty cup, and I didn't want to buy something that's already available, I might try pressing something onto and existing ceramic cup which gives you the correct length. It would be insulated and cheaper/faster than trying to make your own from scratch. Ceramic cylinders are fairly strong when put in compression evenly. Whatever you use will get horribly oxidized, more likely melted, within a few beads. Even if you find a way to insulate a Ti cup it will only look good until you strike the first bead. I'm sure everyone here has had a glowing ceramic cup and they can handle 3x the heat of any metallic that is readily available or machinable.
That was one of my first thought was maybe press fit something over my normal cup. I'm trying to weld at the bottom of 1" plate and its trick getting it there. Gas lense cup hits the side because it's short and a little bulky. I I've need long cups several times. They come in very handy. Thanks man!

manning
12-30-2015, 11:36 AM
Chris Davenport makes and sells Ti cups. You can buy them from his website, but they're more of a wide cup than a long one.

http://specialty-precision-welding.highwire.com

Mr. Smith
12-30-2015, 11:50 AM
I couldn't find any of his Ti cups but found some super spendy alumnina cups. I would put him out of selling cups if I made some good Ti cups and sold them for around 10- 30$ Each.

He's already out of business. He makes knives now. If you read the text accompanying the #14 cup, he states that it's an alumina cup and the diffuser is made of exotic allows. Further, he states that you must have a minimum electrode stick-out of 0.75 else you'll risk arcing from the diffuser to the material. He also states that it's not for walking the cup or ever having the cup contact the workpiece.

Good luck reinventing the wheel.

gunfrk
12-30-2015, 01:03 PM
Somewhere in my huge accumulation of stuff, I remember having such a beast. I haven't thought about it in years.

Back in the day Union Carbide sold armored alumina cups. These had a metal band covering around the outside of them for rough environments. Still, the collet body and energized parts of the torch were isolated from the metal part on the cup. I believe they were slightly crimped on. I had some at one time, but they're long gone otherwise I would post a pic for illustrative purposes.

If you could find a way to insulate it, I can see trying it as a challenging little project. If it's not insulated, you will have all kinds of problems with HF transfer and possible arcing to your grounded materials.

Subscribed...

Oscar
12-30-2015, 01:38 PM
Chris Davenport makes and sells Ti cups. You can buy them from his website, but they're more of a wide cup than a long one.

http://specialty-precision-welding.highwire.com

Wow that stuff is expensive.

TimmyTIG
12-30-2015, 02:28 PM
Why are you TIG welding 1" plate? Just messing around?

Insaneride
12-30-2015, 02:37 PM
What advantage would a Ti cup have over pyrex or the pink ceramic ones? I dont see Ti as being a good thermal insulator or have any benefit except being able to not break it.

Disadvantage would be ; hard to machine and expensive material.

moto, I have to admire your determination to push the envelope but I think you would be better off making your own ceramic cups or modifying as mentioned vs making from Ti imo.

BTW, you may have a good idea as far as the extension goes. If the need arises.

The CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics has tables to compare thermal and conductive properties of different elements among other stuf. The ceramic cups seem to be the norm.

http://www.hbcpnetbase.com/

That Guy There
12-30-2015, 02:41 PM
Haha people never cease to amaze me, slam a company because they make a great product which is always sold out, then say "I can do this I will do that etc.."

By all means please build cups of similar quality that are proven and sale them for way less then toxic or chris does, then make butt loads of $$$....... Don't we all wish it was that easy?

This kinda reminds me of the "My $800 welder or $400 plasma cutter will do any and everything that your Big 3 welder or plasma cutter does".

Oscar
12-30-2015, 02:50 PM
Maybe I'll just mix that up in a bowl

and pour milk into it? Come on man, you have no idea what you're talking about. You didn't even know that screwing a conductive metal cup onto an electrically-hot collet body would then transfer the current to the cup! Let's be realistic here.

$10-$30ea huh? That's quite a variance. $10 is 1/10 of a ben franklin, $30 is closer to 1/3 of a ben franklin. That's a huge variance in price. Sounds like a day-dream, or worst yet, a pipe dream. Put down the pipe.

Insaneride
12-30-2015, 03:09 PM
and pour milk into it? ... Put down the pipe.

LMAO :laugh: dont knock the pipe tho, it could be inspiration :eek:.

I looked at conductivity of Ti. Its only 420 nano ohms per meter. Thats almost 200 times more than aluminum but its still gonna short out :laugh:

NinjaRay
12-30-2015, 04:43 PM
Well that went downhill quick, sometimes its just better to say nothing at all :laugh:, moto you can always go the hillbilly way like this guy and it might work for ya :confused:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVACpkmHFfk

ManoKai
12-30-2015, 06:26 PM
What advantage would a Ti cup have over pyrex or the pink ceramic ones?

The standard "pink" TIG cups consist of Al2O3 (aluminum oxide), a manufactured material with a melting point of 2000C and a Mohs hardness of ~ 9. Titanium, on the other hand, has a melting point of 1700C with a Mohs hardness of ~ 6. For reference, Talc is a 1 and Diamond is a 10. A material with a higher Mohs number will "scratch" a material of a lower Mohs number.

Aside from any perceived coolness factor, believe fabricators in the aerospace/specials industry may elect to use Ti cups to reduce the chance of marring a work piece during welding.

"Now if 6 turned out to be 9
I don't mind, I don't mind
Alright, if all the hippies cut off all their hair
I don't care, I don't care
Dig, 'cos I got my own world to live through
And I ain't gonna copy you" - Jimi Hendrix

TimmyTIG
12-30-2015, 06:45 PM
Well that went downhill quick, sometimes its just better to say nothing at all :laugh:, moto you can always go the hillbilly way like this guy and it might work for ya :confused:

He doesn't want a cup for welding titanium, he wants one made from it.

weldermike
12-30-2015, 07:06 PM
Moto I worked in a shop that had a cabinet full of cups that were lumina, with titanium sleeves over them. All shapes all sizes and all lengths. Something to think about. Would be way cheaper and easier just to make sleeves. I never had a need to use one, but if you're dead set it may be worth looking into.

NinjaRay
12-30-2015, 09:05 PM
He doesn't want a cup for welding titanium, he wants one made from it.

ah I see, forgive me I am a stupid mexican...


Moto it's cheaper to just buy the right stuff instead but if you must, buy the ti and try it. You know how everyone rode your arse about the holding tank you made for your dirt bike, This might be another one of those times? Good luck!

Insaneride
12-31-2015, 12:27 PM
...

Aside from any perceived coolness factor, believe fabricators in the aerospace/specials industry may elect to use Ti cups to reduce the chance of marring a work piece during welding.

...

Thanks, that answered my question why use Ti but doesnt sound practical unless its profitable for end user. Also, doesnt sound like pure Ti or 6:4 in the cup but then I dont know :confused:

AndyA
12-31-2015, 02:19 PM
If you're going to get all exotic, why not use tungsten for the cup. The melting point is 6192F. WAAAAYYY better than that junky pink stuff that melts at 3762F. How are you going to machine it?.... ummmmm......ummmm.....




Seriously...
The tig torch uses telfon (at least I think it's teflon) washers behind the cup. You could make a teflon bushing to insulate your conductive cup. The teflon doesn't melt when used with a alumina cup. So as long as your cup material has a lower or equal thermal conductivity than the alumina you should be ok.

Alumina thermal conductivity is 30 watts/meter/kelvin. Oddly enough stainless steel has thermal conductivity in the 15 to 25 watts/meter/kelvin. So it should be BETTER than the alumnia.

The downside is steel starts melting around 2300F. However, 2300F would look glowing white hot, and I've never seen my alumina cup glowing white hot, so I don't think we'll ever get close to these temperatures.

Stainless is relatively cheap and easy to get. Make a teflon bushing with inside and outside threads. Hot damn, that just might work.

AndyA
12-31-2015, 02:22 PM
There's very little mechanical strength needed. You could just press the teflon into the back of the stainless cup, and then cut the female threads. Although, the press fit might get loose when the stainless heats up.

ManoKai
12-31-2015, 02:53 PM
@ AndyA - The melting temperatures of typical TIG cups of Alumina (Aluminum Oxide), Silicon Nitride, Ceramic (Aluminum Silicate, Lava), and Pyrex are 2000C, 1900C, 1150C, and 820C, respectively. The commonly accepted temperature of the TIG arc at the tip is 3600C.

Stainless steel has a melting temperature of 1400-1500C. SS approaches the melting temps of both aluminum oxide and silicon nitride. However, believe all the aforementioned TIG cup materials are less expensive than SS to source/manufacture.

AndyA
12-31-2015, 03:13 PM
The stainless may cost more, but if I drop it onto the concrete floor, it will survive.

I don't break that many cups anyway. I usually change them out because they're getting too crusty. I bet the crusties will stick to the stainless better than the ceramic. So the lifespan of the stainless cup may actually be worse. If you're making them yourself, you could pop it back in the lathe and make a skim cut to clean it up.

I'm not sure how practical any of this is. It was just an interesting idea that I think would actually work.

B_C
12-31-2015, 09:12 PM
Hmmmmmmmmm very interesting....A cup tungsten.... lol

jr tig
01-01-2016, 03:32 PM
Aside from any perceived coolness factor, believe fabricators in the aerospace/specials industry may elect to use Ti cups to reduce the chance of marring a work piece during welding.



Right up until they cup contact the piece and put a nice arc burn on it

motolife313
01-01-2016, 03:37 PM
Not if the cup is insulated. Thats my theory at least. And Gona get tested

Econdron
01-01-2016, 06:40 PM
Head over to PracticalMachinist.com and post in the for sale section and ask if anyone has any Titanium drops they would sell you. Lots of guys there machining titanium and they would almost certainly sell if for cheaper than the online suppliers. As others have mentioned, I would look into pressing in some time of insulator into the titanium cup and threading that. I'm assuming you're a pretty decent machinist?

motolife313
01-01-2016, 07:02 PM
Not me but my buddy helps me. Thanks that's a good idea too ask them. That online metal supplier is waay high, like 7 times higher then normal good deal. But wasn't sure how else to get it

Oscar
01-01-2016, 07:57 PM
I got ~1" solid round from Titanium Joe as part of their titanium "bargain box" for $25. I'm sure he has more sizes available as remnants at good prices.

motolife313
01-01-2016, 09:02 PM
Who is titanium joe? How long is the piece you got?it would be nice to find pipe

zank
01-01-2016, 10:01 PM
titaniumjoe.com

The Davenport cup has an insulator (not sure if it's teflon or delrin) pressed into the end. The insulator has a threaded insert that screws onto a small gas lens. Scotchbrite "biscuits" help to further diffuse the gas. It works ok, but it's long. I prefer a shorter setup.

Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks made a few prototypes a few years back of an all teflon cup that threads onto a small gas lens and it has a screen to further diffuse the gas. It works awesome and it's a shame he dropped the project. I think he could have sold a ton of them. Beautiful coverage on titanium and nearly indestructible. Moto, that may be something to consider.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8148639230_7ee201634a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/dq4UxQ)
prototype cup from Welding Tips and Tricks (https://flic.kr/p/dq4UxQ) by Mike Zanconato (https://www.flickr.com/photos/zanconato/), on Flickr

Here's a joint I did with that cup. No post weld brushing was done. This is as-welded.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8183493774_d551aa36c3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/dt9xAf)
Titanium Filled (https://flic.kr/p/dt9xAf) by Mike Zanconato (https://www.flickr.com/photos/zanconato/), on Flickr

motolife313
01-01-2016, 10:26 PM
Why are you TIG welding 1" plate? Just messing around?

Ya I'm just messing around and found I need more practice. But I have needed to use long cups and too make your own cup would be cool. It kept under cutting the down about the first 3/8 or more because of the bad tungsten angle from the wide cup. But I fixed it each pass. 1308371im not very happy with it and Gina do another. Side bend and etched but not very well.

motolife313
01-01-2016, 10:30 PM
just scrubbed it with a old ss tooth brush in between each pass. I should have used a rag also

7A749
01-01-2016, 10:31 PM
titaniumjoe.com

The Davenport cup has an insulator (not sure if it's teflon or delrin) pressed into the end. The insulator has a threaded insert that screws onto a small gas lens. Scotchbrite "biscuits" help to further diffuse the gas. It works ok, but it's long. I prefer a shorter setup.

Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks made a few prototypes a few years back of an all teflon cup that threads onto a small gas lens and it has a screen to further diffuse the gas. It works awesome and it's a shame he dropped the project. I think he could have sold a ton of them. Beautiful coverage on titanium and nearly indestructible. Moto, that may be something to consider.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8148639230_7ee201634a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/dq4UxQ)
prototype cup from Welding Tips and Tricks (https://flic.kr/p/dq4UxQ) by Mike Zanconato (https://www.flickr.com/photos/zanconato/), on Flickr

Here's a joint I did with that cup. No post weld brushing was done. This is as-welded.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8337/8183493774_d551aa36c3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/dt9xAf)
Titanium Filled (https://flic.kr/p/dt9xAf) by Mike Zanconato (https://www.flickr.com/photos/zanconato/), on Flickr

That is incredible Mike. Especially for no surface prep afterwards or extra shielding.

You do excellent work. If I practiced every day I might be a little bit better than a third as good as you :D

motolife313
01-01-2016, 10:39 PM
thanks zank! What size and length is jodys cup?i mainly use a 5 but I think willing to step it up to a 5.5 if I make my first cup and test it. I think I'll make a 8 12 and maybe bigger also

steelsurgeon
01-01-2016, 10:55 PM
I've added to the length of a pink ceramic cup by adding a piece of 1/4" copper tubing and taping it on with aluminum tape. This was the result of getting out of a jam one day, about 30 years ago. It's still kicking around here somewhere...

Rich

Denis G
01-02-2016, 10:25 PM
Titanium is NOT a good material for making a TIG cup. Bad idea. Look at the MSDS. It auto-ignites in air at 2200 deg.F:
http://titanium.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Material-Safety-Data-Sheet-Titanium-.pdf

Titanium powder is even worse -- Auto-ignition = 480 deg.F.

burns
01-02-2016, 10:42 PM
Titanium is NOT a good material for making a TIG cup. Bad idea. Look at the MSDS. It auto-ignites in air at 2200 deg.F:
http://titanium.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Material-Safety-Data-Sheet-Titanium-.pdf

Titanium powder is even worse -- Auto-ignition = 480 deg.F.

The melting point, where fusion welding can occur, is 3050*F though.

Denis G
01-02-2016, 11:39 PM
The melting point, where fusion welding can occur, is 3050*F though.

Melting has to be done in vacuum or under inert gas. Before you reach melting point, it will catch fire in air.

Oscar
01-03-2016, 12:09 AM
At least it will sparkle brilliant white light :laugh:

zank
01-03-2016, 02:49 PM
If you weld titanium with no shielding on the back side, it does not spontaneously burst into flames.

ManoKai
01-03-2016, 03:40 PM
@ zank - the large diameter Teflon cups are an excellent idea. And your welds look trick!

Will be milling/turning a 1-1/2" solid rod of PTFE (Teflon) into champagne style TIG cups with a buddy in Feb. Go'n for a #16 cup. Originally approached this effort from the opposite end of the spectrum and planned to machine Inconel 625 rod in 1-1/2" dia x 1ft. However, would have needed to buy carbide inserts (Kennametal KC5xxx series, TiALN) and tooling. Also consider PEEK over Teflon, but PEEK costs ~ 3-4x Teflon while both similar melting temps of 340C.

Time to score a form chaser/threader for installing the female threads (3/8-16?) internal to the TIG cup. :cool:

ManoKai
01-31-2016, 06:00 PM
SW model showing a #12 aluminum oxide cup (right) and our prototype #18 PTFE cup (left). The "18 Tef" will be integrated to an 17-series (air cooled) CKW torch with a collet body gas lense, jumbo (45V64S). The interior of the PTFE cup will be threaded, with a sharp Hertel 1"-16 HSG H3 RH Plug Threader.....Made in USA....., to accept the gas lense. Planning to add SS circumferential screening within the cup to collimate/align the Ar flow from the cup to the workpiece.

Eventually, will morph the champagne-style cup to connect with a stubby gas lense setup. Crawl, walk, sprint.

Tests results after arclight will occur. :cool:

Oscar
01-31-2016, 06:14 PM
Looks good ManoKai!

B_C
02-01-2016, 06:03 PM
I have long ceramic cups? How long do you need to go ?

MikeGyver
02-03-2016, 08:33 PM
Champagne cups are pure crap. You can't have the opening flare out wider than the body unless you have a well thought out argon distribution strategy (like the large CK pyrex cup). I used a champagne cup and it was essentially worthless.

ManoKai
02-04-2016, 06:46 PM
@ Oscar - thanks bro! The 1"-16 Hertel thread we purchased turned out to actually be a 1"-20. The laser etching on the shaft and the packaging agreed. The thread gage and vernier calipers confirmed the errant labeling. eVilBay seller is refunding the $60. Easy day. In the interim, we rip a reconditioned/sharped Jaris 1"-16 NS threader for $13 shipped. :cool:

ManoKai
08-04-2016, 11:20 PM
Started beta-testing our new, large diameter, PTFE, TIG cup. Solid results on stainless coupons. Still need to run her on Ti flats. No Ti tubing currently on hand to attempt welds.

Will create a separate thread showing the E2E build and burn-in results to date. :cool:

Oscar
08-05-2016, 07:16 AM
Pics or it didn't happen :)

Gamble
08-05-2016, 09:36 AM
You better hurry up. Arc zone has the rights to the toxic fags molds so he will be making and selling them soon

ManoKai
08-05-2016, 09:40 AM
You better hurry up. Arc zone has the rights to the toxic fags {sic} molds so he will be making and selling them soon

No rush. Proof of Concept bro.

ryan.regis
08-05-2016, 10:35 AM
You guys see this guys custom ti welding cup? Nice and easy to do and works great.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVACpkmHFfk

Gamble
08-05-2016, 11:38 AM
No rush. Proof of Concept bro.

Need a tester? I have some titanium plate and rod laying around

Oscar
08-05-2016, 02:24 PM
You guys see this guys custom ti welding cup? Nice and easy to do and works great.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVACpkmHFfk

I saw that, but by the time you end up machining a shoulder onto a large gas lens, and machining your own draw-bar to hold it in place while the JBweld sets, you could have just put a few extra hours at work and just bought a large diameter CK gas lens kit.

That Guy There
08-06-2016, 06:57 PM
Cooler keep us updated