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View Full Version : Trouble with Hobart 7018 - Flux Removal



Rick V
10-03-2011, 01:53 PM
I just broke the seal and opened a new plastic 5 lb box of Hobart 3/32 inch 7018 electrodes that I bought this summer from a new TSC store.
These electrodes... s-u-c-k !

The arc is unstable and wanders around when using my small inverter (25 volts @ 80 amps DC+). The arc is better behaved with my Linde transformer welder (30 volts @ 80 amps DC+).
However the Real Problem is the flux/slag - got to really beat it off! I mean beat every last little tiny bit off of every part of the weld! :realmad:
WTH ???
I'd been welding on the same steel plate the night before with a mix of rods and never ran into slag tenacity like this Hobart 7018 - kind of a glassy brown look to it. I changed setting a mite - same crappy results: more amps = more tenacious!

Darn! I really wanted to use Hobart 7018 electrodes because I can buy 25 lb paks from TSC for $55 - and a few times a year they go on sale for 30% off. Every other brand is more money. I'm not building anything - just practicing running beads and fillet welds... but I'm not going to spend 90% of my time trying to beat that tenacious slag off!

After this Horrifying Hobart experience, I repeated running weld beads on the same plate using the same welder settings with :
- 3/32 Lincoln 7018AC - no problems, stable arc and thick black slag that lifts off easily if not by itself on a smooth bead,
- 3/32 Forney 7018AC - no problems, stable arc and slag that needs more help to lift on than Lincoln but still a far cry from the Hobart Harassment,
- 3/32 Linde 7018 - no problems, stable arc and slag lifts just fine.

So what's with the Hobart 7018? Any explanation?
Definetly not a good experience - 5 lbs of junk! :mad:
There... I feel a little better for my rant. :laugh:

papaharley03
10-03-2011, 03:29 PM
A bad batch? You might call Hobart and tell them about your experience. Just don't rant about it, ask what could be the problem and I'll bet they would show some concern or offer a solution. That's what reputable companies do.

Let us know if you find out anything.

Papa

Lanse
10-03-2011, 03:34 PM
Ive always ran Hobart 7018s here at the farm, and yes, they do suck, but with the nearest LWS being in another state, my options are limited.

I like a 4.5" grinder with wire wheel, THAT takes it off and doesnt leave your weld with indentations from the hammer. Good luck.

Rick V
10-03-2011, 05:04 PM
Yikes.... two 180 degree different views:
Papaharley03 = A bad batch?
Lanse = yes, they do suck... a 4.5" grinder with wire wheel

assassin_works
10-03-2011, 05:36 PM
i use those i think that your running them to cold i normally run those at about 100 amps when i hit it after it has cooled a bit it just slides right off but i have noticed use them under 90 the slag sticks like a sob also remember that they are DCEP

Lanse
10-03-2011, 05:40 PM
I think its a little of both, Rick, lol.

We have excals at school, and they blow these hobarts out of the water in every single aspect. They run better, start easier (are less likely to stick), have easier to chip slag, are better out of position, and have much easier re-strikes. Ill take them hands-down any day...

assassin_works
10-03-2011, 05:43 PM
oh yeah if they came out of the plastic container you might want to bake them for a while in your rod oven or kitchen oven before using them those plastic boxes aren't air tight so they will taking moisture

assassin_works
10-03-2011, 05:55 PM
[QUOTE=Lanse;560232]I think its a little of both, Rick, lol.

We have excals at school,
excals are you talking about the Lincoln Excalibur they are good rods but they will act the same as the hobart if it isnt the rods sweet spot under powered slag sticks like a sob and in the sweet spot ether the slag curls right up or lightly tap it and it fall right off

Rick V
10-03-2011, 06:10 PM
Nahna, these Hobart rods didn't have a 'sweet spot'; I ran them normal, then cold, then hot... slag is still darn tough to remove. Don't forget, I ran these Hobart electrodes right beside 7018 or 7018AC from Lincoln, Forney and Air Liquide (Blueshield) and none of other electrodes acted like that.
So either this is not normal - a bad batch as Papaharely03 suggested or - that's normal as Lanse said.

As for the plastic box not being moisture proof... what the He11, they sell them new in that box!
The joint in the plastic box was sealed with tape all around. When you open the box, you gotta pull hard because of multiple /|/|/| step like serrations used to seal out moisture. Seems a way better idea than a Lincoln or Forney cardboard box covered in plastic wrap or a plastic bag inside a cardboard box (Blueshield).

Normal or not normal?

assassin_works
10-03-2011, 07:11 PM
well it would seem like that but its not the ribs on the box or the tape dont protect it from humidity in the air as well as condensation front the transfer from hot to cold then back to hot the rod will still soak it up the Lincoln Excalibur have the newer formula hr4 form what it has a better moisture barrier bake about 10 of them in your oven about 1-3 hrs at 400* and give them try

farmall
10-03-2011, 07:19 PM
We have excals at school, and they blow these hobarts out of the water in every single aspect

Our experience was the same. We used the Hobart for practice (it's cheaper by quite a bit) and let the students test prep and test with Excalibur. That way they could cope with lame rod but have an easier time testing since many shops use Lincoln electrodes and they'd be familiar.

ESAB Atom Arc is nice too. We'd get a box every now and then and they always ran well.

Boostinjdm
10-03-2011, 08:50 PM
I run the Hobarts with no complaints. I do prefer the Atom Arc rods though.

soutthpaw
10-03-2011, 09:42 PM
X2 for calling Hobart, If nothing else you should get a refund or a free box of rod

Fat Bastard
10-03-2011, 10:18 PM
Tad cold at 80 amps
The smooooooother you are laying the bead the better the slag pops off.

What is the weld joint?

This thread sucks with out pictures. LOL

Before chipping after the first fer hammer hits please. :)

Rick V
10-03-2011, 11:53 PM
assassin_works suggested:

1 - running them to cold i normally run those at about 100 amps.
OK, I'll try that... 100 amps seems high for a 3/32" rod though.

2 - bake about 10 of them in your oven about 1-3 hrs at 400* and give them try.
OK, I'll try that... he11 of a thing though if they got moisture in them right out of a newly opened box.

3 - if it isnt the rods sweet spot under powered slag sticks like a sob and in the sweet spot ether the slag curls right up or lightly tap it and it fall right off.
OK, I'll try running at 80, 90, 100, 110 and 120 amps and see what happens.

Fallback position...
I asked my welding instructor about this tonight. He told me that the whole industry in this area (Ottawa and around) use Blueshield 7018 from Air Liquide. Smooth running rod and priced good too. I ran some free samples of that (3/32 and 1/8) during the spring time - worked fine for me.

assassin_works
10-04-2011, 12:36 AM
the blue shield probably have a moisture barrier like the 7018 hr4 (excalibur) which have have a higher resistance to moisture
but ill say this much if it didnt come out of a "TIN" can those rods will have moisture cause even if they are new there is no moisture seal like the tin would be since they are fully sealed like a can of peas
no need to go over 100 amps a 7018 is rated for 65 -100 what i didnt ask what is the thickness of the material your trying to use this rod on ? the thinner the less amps needed but the thicker the more is needed since the thicker the parent metal. will adsorbs and decapitates heat away from the puddle the more amps are needed to keep it at the sweet spot ... i have come to learn that every rod has a sweet spot where it burn just perfect with the metal ....if you need to go over 100 jump to the next size rod ..

Scott Young
10-04-2011, 07:14 PM
Unless you peel the top off of a metal can or open a vacuum sealed bag assume the rods need to be dried in an oven. I run 3/32 7018 at 100 ish...90 is low and 115 is high. If i am welding 16 ga and under then I may drop amps, but may not. It all depends on how the puddle is doing.

BCTimberwolf
10-04-2011, 10:24 PM
I have a box of those I keep around for junk projects and I never have a problem with starting or slag removal. The bobcat does run them better than the inverter, but like was mentioned before, I run them at 90-100 and the slag peels itself off or comes right off with a small tap. Keep in mind these have been down here in florida in the high humidity since april.

gordfraser
10-04-2011, 11:08 PM
Unless you peel the top off of a metal can or open a vacuum sealed bag assume the rods need to be dried in an oven. I run 3/32 7018 at 100 ish...90 is low and 115 is high. If i am welding 16 ga and under then I may drop amps, but may not. It all depends on how the puddle is doing.

Interesting. I run excal's at @85 on my TB302 and TA 300.
worked out fine on my 6G ASME IX unlimited test on an XMT 350 @ 85A also.
Slag peeled right off.

I'll try them a little hotter and see what happens.
Although i try not to fix what isnt broke.

i run 1/8" 7018 at 111A

gordfraser
10-04-2011, 11:14 PM
I tried all the brands of 7018 i could find around, and settled on Excaliber.

atom arc, mackay, hobart, radnor...... whatever i could get my hands on.

Excaliber had a more consistent, even burn, on my welders.

gwiley
10-05-2011, 07:42 AM
I use the Hobart 7018 exclusively (easiest to get for me) and find that the slag is sometimes a real bear. I have run 3/32, 1/8, 5/32 - they all show the same behavior. I had debated trying Lincoln 7018, after reading these posts I think that will be my next box.

Rick V
10-05-2011, 07:58 AM
i use those i think that your running them to cold i normally run those at about 100 amps when i hit it after it has cooled a bit it just slides right off but i have noticed use them under 90 the slag sticks like a sob also remember that they are DCEP
Fairly good call! I ran beads of the 3/32 inch 7018 Hobarts on new 3/16 inch thick plates at an indicated 70, 80, 90, 100, 110 and 120 amps DC+ on my Linde 250 AC/DC. Note: The amprage indicator is just a moving pointer against a printed scale and could easily be off by 10 amps or so.

The slag was easier to remove from the 120 amp bead - came off in 1 inch segments; however, to me the rod was running too hot and I really had to move along. Still the bead weas not too bad - a little hot looking.
At an indicated 70 amps, I could not start nor maintain an arc.
At 80 amps everything was fine but the bead was narrow and proud = too cold. Slag was an assassin_works 'sob' to remove.
The 90, 100 and 110 amp runs were in between the 80 and 120 amps results.
I never found a sweet spot amperage where the slag just curled up off the weld. Neither did I observe that when the weld "has cooled a bit it just slides right off".

Guess I'l; have play baker :laugh: and bake up a batch before I repeat the multiple amperage test.

Still, this is not good; my other brands of 7018 run way better and they were stored in a similar fashion - no hemetically sealed cans for any of these rods. On the other hand, if after baking the Hobarts do run super and slag removes easily, then they might be considerd useful - with a built in indicator of too much moisture.
Gotto Go Bake! :)

Scott Young
10-05-2011, 04:40 PM
Interesting. I run excal's at @85 on my TB302 and TA 300.
worked out fine on my 6G ASME IX unlimited test on an XMT 350 @ 85A also.
Slag peeled right off.

I'll try them a little hotter and see what happens.
Although i try not to fix what isnt broke.

i run 1/8" 7018 at 111A

If it aint broke don't fix it.:drinkup:

It may just be your machine or may be mine. I am finding on new machines they try and monkey with things sometimes fixing them and sometimes not. Most of my stick welding has been done on a lincoln sa 200, lincoln 250, miller bobcat, and a miller tb 302. I also have been on many different in house 3 phase miller welders along with a handful of single phase units down to a simple cracker box. in all of them I don't fully understand all the features like pipe mode, dig, etc. I just adjust till I see the puddle doing what it needs to do. Most of the machines don't even have indicators.

Depending upong the job i will carry in my pouch 1/8 - 6010/11 and 3/32 - 7018 or 5/32 - 6010/11 and 1/8 - 7018. If I can get the part into position, I will turnb the machine over to AC and run 7024 in a heart beat.

Rick V
10-05-2011, 08:16 PM
Back to the 3/32 inch Hobarts 7018s...

Baking done, the electrodes cooled in a few moments after being out of the heat.
I ran 6 baked rods at an indicated 70, 80, 90, 100, 110 and 120 amps DC+.
Seemed a mite smoother than before...
However right after, I ran another 6 electrodes straight out of the box and the welding and weld beads seemed about the same to me.
Note: All these Hobart 7018 electrodes are tricker to start than other 7018 brands I have used; just far too easy to really stick a Hobart 7018.

More importantly, on all the beads (electrodes baked or unbaked) the slag was still difficult to remove - most especially if two weld beads ran close together, then the slag in the crevice between the close beads was a sob to remove! :angry:

At the optimum amperage of about 80 - 90 for nice beads with my travel speed, the slag came off more easily - but the slag never rewarded me for making a nice bead with a self lifting long strip of slag. The longest piece that I ever beat off was about 3/4 inch long. :laugh:

I can only conclude that as far as slag removal goes, Hobart 7018 is not in the same league as other popular brands of electrodes. Hobart 7018 slag tends to be hard, thin, glassy and brown as opposed to the usual softer, thicker, matt and black colour of other brands.

As far as the weld metal beads go - they looked OK but never quite seemed to attain the smothness I've observed with other brands. A Hobart 7018 bead looks like a 6011/7018 bead. ;)

MadMax31
10-05-2011, 08:46 PM
Excalibur FTW... Atom Arc close second.

I will not run:
Radnor
Hobart

While I don't have 15 years of burnin bullets, I do know, welding pipe and all of it's wonderful positions- a consistent smooth, trustworthy rod is a beautiful thing man...

Rick V
10-08-2011, 08:34 PM
MadMax31... Esab Atom Arc 7018 is the electrode of choice in an industrial town 1 hour from here - according to the owner of a small company that repairs welders.
Sound like it might be a good idea for me to buy 10 lbs each of Exaliber (Lincoln) and Atom Arc (Esab) plus that LA7018 Blueshield (Air Liquide). Maybe I'll get lucky and can get or order em all from Air Liquide - thus paying only 1 Hazmet fee instead of getting hit three times!

Stick-man
10-09-2011, 11:07 PM
Hobart 418 runs nice but restrike sucks. My favorite rods are McKay. VERY consistantly great, easy slag removal and easy restrike. They're getting big dollars because they're not as popular anymore. I also like AtomArc. I just bought three 50 lb. cans of AtomArc 3/32" and three 50 lb. cans of Lincoln Jet LH 78 MR 1/8" for $50.00 per can, off ebay, local pick up. And I always prefer sealed cans for 7018. But the Hobart plastic paks are nice for storage of other rods.

Tmbrwlf
01-10-2012, 10:54 PM
I believe everyone would agree, 7018 is one of the tougher rods to use. I've been burning it for railroad car repair for 24 years. As mentioned above, tin shipping containers (we get them in 50lb cans) are best.:drinkup:

Rick V
01-11-2012, 01:35 AM
I believe everyone would agree, 7018 is one of the tougher rods to use...
Not Me, I'd vote for 6013! The slightest touch of long arc and poop - SLAG! :angry:
In fact, I think if you can weld with 6013 by maintaining a short arc gap, but not ever dragging the rod, then you can handle any of the other rods.
6013 - Man I hate that rod! :realmad: BUT it challenges Me! :cry:

6010/6011, 7014, 7018 - for me, all easy in comparison to 6013.
If it's something critical, I'll go to any rod but 6013 - just to avoid that possible plop-of-slag!
So for me, 6013, without dragging is the rod, is what I have to master to become a better welder. :laugh:

oznation
01-11-2012, 05:46 PM
What position are you running the Hobart in? Have you called in to their tech support yet, and if so what did they tell you to do?




Sorry if you have already answered these I just skimmed the previous posts.

Rick V
01-11-2012, 06:45 PM
Flat. No. ---

jbmprods
01-12-2012, 03:35 AM
i guess i'm different Rick. i love running 6013. it is so easy i think. i agree that after the loads of hobart 7018 i have fried that it sucks after burning excaliber or atom arc. the rod that i dislike running has always been 6011. i only run it if i have to.

oznation
01-12-2012, 08:40 AM
ok what color is the slag. For a Hobart 418 (7018) 3/32 they should be ran flat at around 90-95 amps. What color is the slag on them. Im assuming since its very hard to chip off its a very dark brown. The slag on a 418 should be very light tan to a little darker in the middle of the slag. let me know and we can get you going!

killdozerd11
01-12-2012, 12:06 PM
I have had the same problem with the HOBART rod so i don't use it anymore

Went to ATOM ARC and never have problems anymore

I am going to try the Excalibur some day everybody seems to like it

Rick V
01-12-2012, 01:26 PM
i guess i'm different Rick. i love running 6013. it is so easy i think. i agree that after the loads of hobart 7018 i have fried that it sucks after burning excaliber or atom arc. the rod that i dislike running has always been 6011. i only run it if i have to.
Hmmm... maybe I should just try dragging 6013; I mean I have to try maintain such a short arc anyway to avoid slag drops, it may be easier to just crank up the amps and drag the rod! :laugh:

I have two 10lb boxes of ESAB Atomarc 3/32 and 1/8 7018 that I haven't cracked open yet.

I love 6011 for some things - when I just have to have real good penetration on a butt joint. Rather than bevel the edges on say 3/16" plates and use another rod, it's faster to just gap em and use 6011. Big plus on 6010/6011 is the light easy to remove slag.
e.g. I recently used 1/16" 6011 to to get into the narrow root formed by two plates meeting at 30 degrees. A tight spot to get into and I wanted to be certain to weld into the root - not leave two weld lines on either side of the root. Small diameter 6011 was perfect. I followed up with three stingers of 3/32" 7014 and then a side-to-side weave to tie in the sides with 1/8" 7014 - came out real nice.


ok what color is the slag. For a Hobart 418 (7018) 3/32 they should be ran flat at around 90-95 amps... Im assuming since its very hard to chip off its a very dark brown. The slag on a 418 should be very light tan to a little darker in the middle of the slag...
First off, my Hobart 7018 from Tractor Suppy Compnay (TSC) isn't Hobart's professonal grade 418. Yeah 3/32 slag is a dark brown - a thin, very hard, ceramic like coating instead of the black brittle or more porous slags with other makes of 7018. And I've seen that "very light tan to a little darker in the middle" with their larger 1/8 inch rods. That comes off more easily.


I have had the same problem with the HOBART rod so i don't use it anymore. Went to ATOM ARC and never have problems anymore. I am going to try the Excalibur some day everybody seems to like it
Yeah it's a question of convenience and price and added charges.

Hobart (not 418) from TSC was on sale two weeks ago for 30% off, $21 for 10 lbs
Lincoln (not exclaibur) from Princess Auto goes on sale for $24 from $30.
Got to go to a welding store for 418 or excalibur (special order) and pay full price plus get hit with hazmet charges and some other fees... before taxes.
Forney: cashed in some air miles for a Home Hardware gift card. Paid $30 per 10 lbs boxes of 1/8" 6011, 6013, 7014 and AC7018... but it was, in a sense, free rod for me.
I went the welding store route for ESAB 7018 and for Air-Liquid's Blueshield electrodes - no where else to buy those.

Old Skool
01-12-2012, 01:49 PM
I run Hobarts with no problems, slag scorpion tails up, butts are cherry red when I flip them from the stinger.

oznation
01-12-2012, 04:50 PM
if its not 418 it would have to be the cheaper XLM product line. There is the issue. The slag from an xlm will not be very nice. Its a cheaper less attractive version. The XLM's still run nice. Try running a little faster with a slight wiggle side to side.

oznation
01-12-2012, 05:04 PM
I also hope that a 7018 never has a black brittle slag. I believe your confusing 7018 and celuosic rods like 6010's or 6011's. I am a welder at Hobart and am just trying to help you out.

ar15is223
01-12-2012, 06:34 PM
I think the slag on Hobart 7018 is frequently hard to chip off too. I prefer Lincoln electrodes the slag seems to come off much easier. The only time i get Hobart is if it is not posible to go to the lws. But i am no professional.

oznation
01-12-2012, 09:55 PM
try keeping a tighter arc length. like i said i am just trying to make suggestions.

farmall
01-16-2012, 05:01 AM
We have excals at school, and they blow these hobarts out of the water in every single aspect. They run better, start easier (are less likely to stick), have easier to chip slag, are better out of position, and have much easier re-strikes. Ill take them hands-down any day...

Totally agree.

We bought many cans of both for the school where I worked because Hobart was much less expensive, but we reserved the Excalibur for pre-test practice and testing. Atom Arc is nice too but was more expensive than Hobart and since we were training pipe welders our instructors preferred Lincoln because it's more common in the field.

ar15is223
01-17-2012, 12:35 AM
Im glad that other people agree. I think im going to try and find a rod oven and just order 50# of lincoln 7018 at a time. I guess im not going crazy after all.

mikejenezon
01-22-2012, 02:38 AM
guess im the odd guy but the last 50# can of 1\8 7018 i burnt was lincoln excalibur h4r,On a sa 250 diesel I will NEVER BUY LINCOLN ROD again that was hands down the worst rod i have ever used , the flux fell off the rod if you bumped it , stuck bad and didn't weld for crud . the box before it was 418 hobart and near the end of this was a box of 418 5\32 both welded nice slag came of fair and most importantly it was easy to use FWIW l8tr mike

Davidbrown
01-24-2012, 01:45 PM
I think there is several grades of Hobart, I think there may even be a few different rods marked Excalibur. Its hard to make generalizations like that.

grindel
07-07-2012, 07:38 PM
Did any one ever get a answer on this? I have the same issue with Hobart 7018.

nova4353
07-08-2012, 05:01 PM
Just finished a repair yesterday on a haybine tongue,was repairing a cracks on the underside,so used Hobart 7018 in an overhead position. Yep sticky beaches,with a hard glass like slag. I'll still use the rest of the box,but ill find another brand afterwards. Thought the sticky was from running low side of the current scale. That and I don't do much overhead. Good to read this thread.

dbl612
07-08-2012, 05:22 PM
when you die, if you were a bad person, you are given hobart 7018 to weld with out of position as punishment for your past sins!

Rick V
07-23-2012, 04:33 PM
when you die, if you were a bad person, you are given hobart 7018 to weld with out of position as punishment for your past sins!
Wow... Really? I mean... that seems pretty severe! :laugh::laugh::laugh:

grindel
07-23-2012, 08:25 PM
i ran some esab 7018 that blows hobart out of the water

Boostinjdm
07-23-2012, 11:13 PM
when you die, if you were a bad person, you are given hobart 7018 to weld with out of position as punishment for your past sins!

So how will I know the difference. I run Hobart 7018 now...

LarryO
07-24-2012, 12:19 AM
So how will I know the difference. I run Hobart 7018 now...

Must be already in hell. :angry: :jester:

Cofe
08-12-2012, 06:47 AM
I personally do not like Hobart rod.
If I have my choices, Excalibur is the best.
I have burnt many a rod over time, and have ran into "bad batches" of good branded rod. If you are doing precision work, then the best is called for. Getting by with inferior rod decreases productivity with added grinding, difficult start, sticking, and flux removal time. Not to mention the weld inclusions that may be happening.

blasphemy000
08-12-2012, 09:38 AM
My father-in-law bought me a 5lb box of Hobart 7018, 3/32" as a gift when I got my new(to me) welder(The Airco in my sig), and at first I was having the same problem with removing the flux. The box says 80-100A is the recommended amperage range. I hadn't stick welded since I was about 12 years old(so about 14 years ago) so I figured I would just start in the middle at 90A. The flux removal was kinda hard and my welds looked less than acceptable, but I figured this was due to my lack-of technique. Just for ****s and giggles I turned the heat up to 100A and it made a world of difference. They are easy to start and restart and my weld quality improved as well, although I still need a lot of practice. With the 10A increase in heat the slag also was easier to remove, instead of having to hit it with a chipping hammer it could be removed fairly easily by raking with a 1/2-round file then wire-brushing. Given, the slag doesn't peal right off like I've seen with other 7018 rods but it sure comes off a lot easier then it did before I upped the amperage.

Ruark
08-21-2012, 12:32 AM
Hobart 1/8" 7018AC is my everyday go-to rod for projects here around the farm. It starts and runs well without sticking, beads beautifully, works great. Slag doesn't just fall off, but most chips off and cleans up nicely with the wire wheel on the angle grinder. I keep it in the standard red plastic can, but I've used some that was lying in the bottom of the welding cart for a year and it works just fine, too, absolutely no.issues whatsoever.

I did have something of a learning curve with it, but once I mastered it I wouldn't weld with anything else, except maybe for using 6011 with dirty stuff. Anyway, that's my experience.

fredschrom
09-27-2012, 11:12 PM
" personally do not like Hobart rod.
If I have my choices, Excalibur is the best.
I have burnt many a rod over time, and have ran into "bad batches" of good branded rod. If you are doing precision work, then the best is called for. Getting by with inferior rod decreases productivity with added grinding, difficult start, sticking, and flux removal time. Not to mention the weld inclusions that may be happening"

I have been welding with Hobart rod quite a bit lately and when welding it goes Okay but the slag sucks bigtime. On perfect 2G and 2F welds I can tolerate it for overhead and vertical it blows, the slag looks like Monkey **** or snot, and sticks just like a bugger. When using Lincoln Excalibur or even some cheap chinese rod my slag pops off as cooling, not the Hobart got to work it off.

If I was using it everyday on a job site I would be buying a needle scaler. On a scale of 1-10 for 7018 rod I give it a 3-4. If there is any different rod in the oven I will grab it first.

I was dicking around with it Tuesday in 2g and on perfect beads best I could do on the slag was a couple of taps, Excalibur blows it away. My other beef it isn't a particularly fast freezing rod and I need to adjust my current down when using it vertical from where I typically run Excalibur.

Mt next favorite rod is Atom Arc

fredschrom
09-27-2012, 11:37 PM
" Tad cold at 80 amps
The smooooooother you are laying the bead the better the slag pops off."

I was running 126 amps today, and it doesn't pop offf, and its not a bad batch, ran just like the last batch, and the are right out of the rod oven.

katana1150
11-17-2012, 01:14 AM
Fairly good call! I ran beads of the 3/32 inch 7018 Hobarts on new 3/16 inch thick plates at an indicated 70, 80, 90, 100, 110 and 120 amps DC+ on my Linde 250 AC/DC. Note: The amprage indicator is just a moving pointer against a printed scale and could easily be off by 10 amps or so.

The slag was easier to remove from the 120 amp bead - came off in 1 inch segments; however, to me the rod was running too hot and I really had to move along. Still the bead weas not too bad - a little hot looking.
At an indicated 70 amps, I could not start nor maintain an arc.
At 80 amps everything was fine but the bead was narrow and proud = too cold. Slag was an assassin_works 'sob' to remove.
The 90, 100 and 110 amp runs were in between the 80 and 120 amps results.
I never found a sweet spot amperage where the slag just curled up off the weld. Neither did I observe that when the weld "has cooled a bit it just slides right off".

Guess I'l; have play baker :laugh: and bake up a batch before I repeat the multiple amperage test.

Still, this is not good; my other brands of 7018 run way better and they were stored in a similar fashion - no hemetically sealed cans for any of these rods. On the other hand, if after baking the Hobarts do run super and slag removes easily, then they might be considerd useful - with a built in indicator of too much moisture.
Gotto Go Bake! :)

The Hotter the better! Weld with the hottest amperage you can without getting burn thru or undercut!

It has always been my experience that when your amperage is a little on the cold side the slag can be troublesome to chip off.

BlauSchuh
11-17-2012, 08:55 AM
I bought a box of the hobart 7018 (says 7018-1 on the rods) last night and had some fun going through at least 15 rods (at elec neg) before I realized that it was an AC or elec + rod. Machine on 120 amps or so and couldn't get it to run worth a crap. Frustrating as I got some 7024 that was running great.
Made the switch to AC and things were 100x better, then tried elec + and it ran just fine. grrr. you really got smash the slag with a hammer though eh?

also, I can't seem to run it well at 80 90 or even a 100 amps. I set that sucker to around 120 and I am not blasting through 1/8" so I guess its ok.

RAMIND
12-22-2012, 12:51 PM
i was running hobart 7018 AC in my garage at 130 amps and it seemed to make a nice looking bead, your max arc gap should be no more than 1/8"

weldin rod
01-24-2013, 07:36 PM
The Hobart 7018 is my go to choice for my side work, loaders and equipment etc... Always runs pretty decent on either my SA 200 or my Dialarc 250. It can be a little tough to start sometimes but you just gotta give it some finesse... I dont know why some of you people are expecting excalibur or atom arc 7018 quality at the price for the Hobart stuff... Its just that the Hobart 7018 isnt anything special like H4R classification or similiar its just run of the mill, plain good ole 7018.

weldin rod
01-24-2013, 07:38 PM
I bought a box of the hobart 7018 (says 7018-1 on the rods) last night and had some fun going through at least 15 rods (at elec neg) before I realized that it was an AC or elec + rod. Machine on 120 amps or so and couldn't get it to run worth a crap. Frustrating as I got some 7024 that was running great.
Made the switch to AC and things were 100x better, then tried elec + and it ran just fine. grrr. you really got smash the slag with a hammer though eh?

also, I can't seem to run it well at 80 90 or even a 100 amps. I set that sucker to around 120 and I am not blasting through 1/8" so I guess its ok.

If its 1/8" rod then you should be running it around 120 amps for flat... 80 or 90 is more like 3/32" territory

Shiftace
01-26-2013, 12:52 PM
I have had the same problem with the HOBART rod so i don't use it anymore

Went to ATOM ARC and never have problems anymore

I am going to try the Excalibur some day everybody seems to like it

I LOVE Excalibur for everything but pipe. It doesn't dig as much as Atom Arc and is more likely to leave slag in the corners.
Hobart is a great pipe rod for fill out but you need to be liberal with the thin disc and you need to run it hotter than most. Caps are ok but even Atom Arc caps out smoother.

Ruark
01-29-2013, 10:02 PM
i was running hobart 7018 AC in my garage at 130 amps and it seemed to make a nice looking bead, your max arc gap should be no more than 1/8"

Yeah, I struggled with bird-poop beads from 7018AC @125-130 until I realized it was overgapping. You can actually drag it across the metal like 7014 or hold it just a hair off, and it makes a beautiful bead. But pick it up to like 1/8" - 1/4" and it spatters all over the place.

Robbie Hay 49
01-31-2013, 06:17 AM
i burn the same rod all day long with out problems im runing a 1/8 rod tho we use this rod for cwb all position if your welding flat you need to run dcep 120 amps slag just falls of if you have the correct arc length and angle mind you you can run this rod at 90 amps but it will be too cold if your using the 3/32 one you should be run between 70 and 85 amps by the sounds of it if your slag looks glassy than its too hot