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View Full Version : 7014 anybody ?



Markopolo
03-08-2004, 04:42 PM
Just curious...does anybody here use 7014 regularly ?
Seems like whenever we cuss and discuss stick, it's always 6010 or 7018...(and once in a great while, 6013...thanks to Franz).
Just wondering.....:)

Markopolo
03-08-2004, 04:43 PM
P.S.....what is this rod normally used for ?

Brainfarth
03-08-2004, 06:17 PM
I've pushed 7024 around a few times for some fast welding aplications...But it was only good on flat and horizontal welds. 7014 would be all position.

Sberry
03-08-2004, 06:19 PM
dont use it because I have DC, thats the only reason I can see for it is with AC machines. (most of the time)

Markopolo
03-08-2004, 06:53 PM
Sberry...it can only be used with a.c. ?

Brainfarth
03-08-2004, 06:55 PM
the 4 means it can go either way.

oregonaaron
03-08-2004, 11:49 PM
We use a fair amount of 7014 in DC. They are real operator friendly. Nice looking beads that are easy to strike and real easy to remove the slag from. I was always told that the 7014's high iron content made them excellent for fill in work requiring a high rate of depostion. They are a good rod. But what I really like are 6011. Fast with good penetration. Just smoke the paint and rust right off.

Sberry
03-08-2004, 11:50 PM
I have used it and as Brian said, it can run either way. We often used it cranked way up past hot for roofing truck bodies, dump trucks etc on light sheet for fast stitch type things where speed was of importance. Its mechanial properties are similar to 6013 in terms of elasticity, shock tolerance etc. The penetration is shallow or mild. The finish is nice. The other electrodes are superior for that. For general fab its fine though although the arc tends to submerge and the puddle isnt as visable contributing to slag entrapment. I have run a lot of it downhill at times for sheet but I dont stock it in my shop. Wire feeders kind of make it obsolete for me.

Dave Haak
03-09-2004, 12:20 AM
Markopolo,

Yes regularly. I've been hooked on it since about '85. That plus 7018 and you can conquer the world...OK and maybe a couple of other rods. Try it you'll like it!

Tim
03-09-2004, 11:53 AM
I bought some at the welding shop years ago and really loved it. I was using an AC only welder, and it was very easy to work with for a beginner. Good lookin' bead, easy to start, easy to control.

Then...I bought some from another source and it was ****. Hard to start, difficult arc, etc. Must be great variations in quality of rods having the same numbers. I was naive enough to believe that 7014 is 7014. Now I know better, I see lincoln has several 7018 rods and probably the same for some others. Not to mention the possibility that some rods just might be a cheap formulation or possibly moist.

Anyhow, the 7014's I liked, I liked a lot. Be skeptical of cheapie rods. It pays to buy from a good source.

gnewby
03-09-2004, 12:17 PM
Most all of my stick welding is done using 6013 or 7014. I have never had a lot of luck using the 7018 on my old Forney, but the 6013 and the 7014 work great on it. A lot of the time I will use 6013 for the root pass and the second pass and then use the 7014 for the final pass as it covers so well and leaves a nice appearance. Slag removal is also very easy with it. My old stick welder is AC only, but still works good.

Markopolo
03-09-2004, 02:10 PM
Tim...Thanks for the reply. I too, have had 7014 from different brands run differently.....I thought it was just me, but you confirmed it ! Blue Demon 7014 runs just gorgeous, but I haven't been real impressed with Weld-It (Hobart) brand.
Also, I haven't tried Lincoln 7014, but i'm sure I will one of these
days.

Sberry
03-09-2004, 02:12 PM
They also make 7018AC just for these machines,, I like that wayyyyyy better.

bomberz1qr20
03-09-2004, 02:14 PM
Originally posted by Brainfarth
I've pushed 7024 around a few times for some fast welding aplications...But it was only good on flat and horizontal welds. 7014 would be all position.

We were introduced to stick in class with 7024, it's probably the easiest to strike an arc with. Great for flat finish beads.

I can't imagine doing horizontal with it though. Does it work well?

malibu101
03-09-2004, 02:31 PM
Originally posted by Sberry
They also make 7018AC just for these machines,, I like that wayyyyyy better.

Oh yeah! I just found this out doing a favor for a friend at his house with only his AC buzzbox to work with. I took some 7018 for the job and I basically could not use it. Sticking all the time and when I got an arc it was horrible to keep it going. Ran to his local hardware store and got some 6013 rods to do the job because while I'm FAR from the greatest welder I couldn't make "regular" 7018 work at all on AC.

gnewby
03-09-2004, 02:51 PM
I tried the 7018 AC-DC rod on my old Forney, It wouldn't work at all, then I tried some 7018 AC rod on it, although I have to say it worked better, it still did not work very good. I turned my welder up a lot higher and even to the max with not any better results. It might have been the manufactorer of the rods I don't know. I have ran 7018 on other welding machines with good results but not with mine. That is why I run mainly 6013 and 7014 I have good results with both, so I use them haven't had any problems with any of my welds using either.

Brainfarth
03-09-2004, 04:45 PM
From what I can remember, it ran great. I think I had to turn it down a little. The last time I used it, I had to weld on the lower tine(fork) back on a log loader. There were hurting for the machine so that's why I chose 7024, for the speed. It turned out great and held on fine.

Markopolo
03-09-2004, 05:09 PM
I wonder why they make 7018 and 7018AC ?.....seems to me that if you can use 7018AC on both a.c. and d.c. . . . .why would anyone want to buy straight 7018 ?
Same thing with 6010 and 6011......6010 needs d.c.......6011 can run on a.c or d.c. . . (they put extra stabilizers in the flux to keep the fire burning while the a.c. swings through the phases).....
COMMON SENSE: If "this" rod works better than "that" rod, why would anyone even bother with "that" rod ? :confused:

bomberz1qr20
03-09-2004, 05:59 PM
Originally posted by Markopolo
ICOMMON SENSE: If "this" rod works better than "that" rod, why would anyone even bother with "that" rod ? :confused:

Don't know...

Cost?

Markopolo
03-09-2004, 07:48 PM
They cost the same.

DDA52
03-10-2004, 01:44 AM
you're getting awfully close to the ford/chevy arguement. some weldors like rods they have to cuss.:realmad:

personally i've never tried any 7014. always heard they were like 6013's, just 70ksi. since i have yet to find a 6013 i like, i never tried them..... maybe it;s time to change that.

6010, 6010+, and 6011 are all relatively the same. their differences are subtle ( except the ac/dc issue of course). its chevy/ford or coke / dr pepper..... to each his own. mine is 5P+, dodge and dr p!!!!!:D

Tim
03-10-2004, 11:09 AM
According to my welding text, the last digit 4, indicates an iron powder (25-50%) coating to the rods, as does 7018. The text says this is to speed the rate of deposition of metal. It also says you run them AC or DCSP. They have in my mind, characteristics that are nearly the opposite of 6011 in terms of penetration and laying down metal.

I made a whole pile of buoy anchors for my dad out of old leaf springs welded into a cross shape. They worked very well for that non-critical application, laying down a nice wide bead fast.

dob
03-11-2004, 12:06 AM
7014 has very low penetration, and therefore not designed for dynamically loaded structures. I would always choose 7018 over 14. Way too much slag entrapment it doesn't have the penetration to burn it out. That said when you got to lay down a lot of metal your xx2x electrodes ( jet rod) are the way to go.

mukwrestling103
03-13-2004, 09:14 PM
I learned to weld with 7014, Hobart, and I still hit it for old times sake every once in a while. Good for all-around welds, I could weld T joints perfect as well as butt and lap joints. My school doesn't teach a whole lot of out-of position stuff or stuff about the actual welding process, it is more trial and error type so all I know is that it is a good all-around rod.

Markopolo
03-13-2004, 09:48 PM
Thanks mukwres......When I FIRST welded, back in the "olden-days"....6013 was the "general purpose" rod.......(you could even buy it at Sears, Roebuck & Co)! As you may (or may not) know, before April of 2003, I haven't welded in over 30 years. I've learned more in the past year about welding than I've ever known before....BECAUSE NOW I'M INTERESTED IN IT !

My welding guy, here at the local supplier say's: "7014 is the only rod you need to use". He say's all the local well-drillers use it...and it's stronger that 6013.

I've probably got 100 lbs. of rod in my bedroom....in sealed containers......red-flux 6010, 5P+, 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018AC,
7018 Excalibur, Forney X-1000 (stainless steel), Ni55 (cast iron), Eutectic-Castolin 4021 (aluminum)............

AND I WANT TO LEARN HOW TO USE THEM ALL ! !

The only thing that bum's me out is: I doub't I'll learn everything there is to know about welding before i'm dead :(

Sberry
03-14-2004, 12:59 AM
I think I might look for a more informed supplier. Well drillers are primarilary well drillers and kind of notorious for their welding,,, this is not to include them all. There are a lot of farmers fit in to this catagory also as are a lot of trades where welding isnt the primary skill.

fla jim
03-14-2004, 06:53 AM
The Well drillers down in Hernando use 6010 I've worked with them a lot.

NoDak
03-15-2004, 01:56 AM
One of the things I like about stick welding is the selection of rods. They have all been developed for specific applications and all have different characteristics when you run them.

7014 is fun to use because it is easy to run. You just drag it -fast- because of its high depostion rate. It puts a lot of weld metal down very, very fast. Has low penetration and is good on thin metal and sheet metal lap joints. Leaves great looking beads, smooth.

I think you have to be a pretty salty weldor to use 6010's on thin metal also 6011. 6013 is a little more forgiving and 6014 will make a nice bead for a novice weldor or do it yourselfer when working on thinner metals.

The real trick for me is getting the welder adjusted to the correct setting so the rod will perform as it is designed and not burn through the project.