i am fairly new to stick welding i have a welder a hobart stickmate lx ac/dc and a mig welder i weld thin stuff 1/8 3/16 somewhere in that range i run 6013 7018 and a little 6011 i use 3/32 and 5/32 7018 and 1/8 6011 i do well with 1/8 6013 on 1/8 steel and i do good with 7018 and 6011 i can get an arc going very well and keep it lit but sometimes on 1/8 steel i blow threw with 7018 and 6011 am i going to slow do i need less amps or are 6011 and 7018 used for thicker metals than 1/8 inch what does everyone think
what to weld with 7018
Mig welder95
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Joined
·
52 Posts
i am fairly new to stick welding i have a welder a hobart stickmate lx ac/dc and a mig welder i weld thin stuff 1/8 3/16 somewhere in that range i run 6013 7018 and a little 6011 i use 3/32 and 5/32 7018 and 1/8 6011 i do well with 1/8 6013 on 1/8 steel and i do good with 7018 and 6011 i can get an arc going very well and keep it lit but sometimes on 1/8 steel i blow threw with 7018 and 6011 am i going to slow do i need less amps or are 6011 and 7018 used for thicker metals than 1/8 inch what does everyone think
I'm a total noob here but i'll try to help out don't trust me fully though :laugh: If my calculations are correct 1/8 is about 0.125 of an inch which in my opinion is pretty small. For 1/8 steel i believe you shouldn't slow down as when you slow down you give the arc more time to heat the electrode hence the reason you blow a hole. In my opinion you should speed up a bit more but not to much that you get stringy welds basically just enough to get er done. Also less ampage will probably help, as the thicker the metal I believe you increase your amps to get a deeper penetration. I believe it also depends what your welding 7018 is a low hydrogen electrode if you want some deep penetration go with a 6011 or 6010. 6011 can be used on Ac or Dc current 6010 is Dc only. 6013 is also nice out of 7018 6011 and 6013 i like 6013 the best for the finishing look but with practice you can make them all look clean.
What amps are you currently running it on?
What amps are you currently running it on?
Joined
·
58 Posts
Are you just practicing or are you repairing/fabricating something? There is a relationship between the diameter of the electrode to the thickness of material being welded. Within that there is the heat range (amps) that a particular rod works.
If your just practicing running beads, I would recommend getting some fairly clean flat bar or plate steel 1/4" thick and some 1/8" diameter electrodes. Start with 6011 and once you are running smooth beads move onto 7018. Take some pictures and post them up here noting the heat your running and I'm sure you will get some input on your technique and settings.
If your just practicing running beads, I would recommend getting some fairly clean flat bar or plate steel 1/4" thick and some 1/8" diameter electrodes. Start with 6011 and once you are running smooth beads move onto 7018. Take some pictures and post them up here noting the heat your running and I'm sure you will get some input on your technique and settings.
Welding 1/8" material with 1/8" 7018 is tough, but doable. You need to keep a tight arc and the amps as low as possible. 3/32" 7018 would be a better choice on 1/8' with 7018, and even smaller rods are available if need be. Smaller the rod, the less amps you need to get it to run well. 5/32" is mega rod for thick sections.
I posted these up a week or so ago, 14 ga sheet lap welded to1/8" angle iron. old open 1/8" 7018. Maxstar 200, 125 amps DC+, very tight arc, pretty quick travel speed. Rods were giving me a bit of trouble since they were old and some what damp. Probably would have run better at 135 amps, but I was already hotter than I wanted. If I'd have had 3/32" rods available, they would have been my 1st choice.
Picts are a bit deceptive. Beads look colder than they really are. They are very flat and no where near a humped as they appear in the picts. The 1st and especially the last picts make it look like the 14 ga is welded to a larger piece of angle iron. The 2nd pict does a better job of showing the double angle formed into a channel that the sheet is welded to. All 3 picts are of similar welds. Slag flaked off with my finger nail.
![]()
![]()
![]()
I posted these up a week or so ago, 14 ga sheet lap welded to1/8" angle iron. old open 1/8" 7018. Maxstar 200, 125 amps DC+, very tight arc, pretty quick travel speed. Rods were giving me a bit of trouble since they were old and some what damp. Probably would have run better at 135 amps, but I was already hotter than I wanted. If I'd have had 3/32" rods available, they would have been my 1st choice.
Picts are a bit deceptive. Beads look colder than they really are. They are very flat and no where near a humped as they appear in the picts. The 1st and especially the last picts make it look like the 14 ga is welded to a larger piece of angle iron. The 2nd pict does a better job of showing the double angle formed into a channel that the sheet is welded to. All 3 picts are of similar welds. Slag flaked off with my finger nail.
DSW already gave you some good tips. I will add that rod angle as you weld will also somewhat control the amount of penetration. More angle = more penetration, less angle = less penetration.
Do an online search for welding rod selection, there are lots of charts and guides available. Even after 35+ years of welding, I still occasionally use a chart for info.
Do an online search for welding rod selection, there are lots of charts and guides available. Even after 35+ years of welding, I still occasionally use a chart for info.
Joined
·
2,520 Posts
Hey, Mig...
If you could break up your sentences...add a period every so often, it would make your post a LOT easier to read. It all just runs together and hard to read. Friendly suggestion.
Stick the rod in the puddle. Your getting arc blow that is blowing the molten base metal away. It's caused from you letting the arc get to long. Arc blow is the force the arc has on the molten metal. More expensive welders than yours will have a adjustment to control the arc force. I have seen welders blow through 3/8 base metal because they weren't paying attention to what they were doing. It's a common problem with welders just starting out.
Joined
·
15,646 Posts
Joined
·
15,646 Posts
Thinner metal requires less amperage - this means smaller rods since each size only runs well in a certain range of amps.
Remember, rod sizes go all the way down to 1/16".
In the beginning, you should not expect to be able to run a rod the same diameter as the thickness of the metal. That is hard.
1/16" rod will weld up to 1/8" steel for example. Smaller rod sizes allow you better control of heat input to the piece.
Dave J.
Joined
·
15,646 Posts
I should add that I personally don't really like 1/16" rod - burns too fast.
5/64" rod is the smallest that I find useful.
Dave J.
5/64" rod is the smallest that I find useful.
Dave J.
Joined
·
869 Posts
More experienced welders than me: am I correct in remembering that a general guideline is that the base metal should be no thinner than the electrode used? In other words, you will have a hard time welding much thinner than 1/8" metal with a 1/8" electrode. That's a guideline that works for me, anyway.
6013 is a low-penetration rod with fast-freeze characteristics that makes it suitable for using on thinner material and material with poor fitup. 6010/6011 is also a fast-freeze rod, with very versatile characteristics. If you have skill, you can weld thin material with 6010/6011 (so I'm told) but it takes some skill. I have never heard anybody suggest that 7018 is a good choice for thinner material, and I personally have always had trouble controlling its heat output and blow-through. If you look at tables, you'll find that 7018 consistently requires more heat output for the same size of electrode than 6010/6011 or 6013, which may explain why it is more prone to blow through. Also, since it is not fast-freeze, it stays molten longer, which I would think gives the puddle more chance to flow out and create a hole.
6013 is a low-penetration rod with fast-freeze characteristics that makes it suitable for using on thinner material and material with poor fitup. 6010/6011 is also a fast-freeze rod, with very versatile characteristics. If you have skill, you can weld thin material with 6010/6011 (so I'm told) but it takes some skill. I have never heard anybody suggest that 7018 is a good choice for thinner material, and I personally have always had trouble controlling its heat output and blow-through. If you look at tables, you'll find that 7018 consistently requires more heat output for the same size of electrode than 6010/6011 or 6013, which may explain why it is more prone to blow through. Also, since it is not fast-freeze, it stays molten longer, which I would think gives the puddle more chance to flow out and create a hole.
Joined
·
15,646 Posts
Not that I'm the most experienced here, but yes you are correct. Exercise in frustration to try weld metal thinner than the thickness of the rod - expecially for beginners.
Better to use at least one size smaller than the metal thickenss.
Our school text says use a rod approx half the thickness of the metal to be welded.
6013 is listed as fill-freeze.
Dave J.
Better to use at least one size smaller than the metal thickenss.
Our school text says use a rod approx half the thickness of the metal to be welded.
6013 is listed as fill-freeze.
Dave J.
Joined
·
11,095 Posts
For welding in position you can do a very nice job with 7018AC on thin metal. The AC version has slightly lesser penetration, but still produces charpy rated welds.
This is 11ga. 7018AC, 1/8 rod, 120amps AC. Reasonably tolerable welds.
![]()
It's sort of a mistake to say that 6013 will necessarily do better on thin material. Even though the penetration is less....the heat buildup is about the same as any other rod. Put enough heat into the metal, and it will melt thru.
This is 11ga. 7018AC, 1/8 rod, 120amps AC. Reasonably tolerable welds.
It's sort of a mistake to say that 6013 will necessarily do better on thin material. Even though the penetration is less....the heat buildup is about the same as any other rod. Put enough heat into the metal, and it will melt thru.
Joined
·
15,646 Posts
Joined
·
183 Posts
So, other than the periods....Were there any other grammar concerns you wanted to bring up? Don't keep them inside as you do not want to get an ulser.... LMAO Did you want to test his ability(or lack of) to preform addition, subtraction, multiplication, or division? Is it possible you were some kinda "Welding Nun" in another life...? lolHey, Mig...
If you could break up your sentences...add a period every so often, it would make your post a LOT easier to read. It all just runs together and hard to read. Friendly suggestion.
Joined
·
1,462 Posts
Shortfuse's suggestions were quite appropriate, and a bit more civil than mine would have been. Your comments, not so much.
Un-punctuated, run-on "sentences" are not only hard to read and understand, they make the poster seem immature and disrespectful of others' time. If you write like an adult, you will be treated as one.
Just the humble opinions of another Welding Nun.
On topic, the arc voltage of 6013s is lower than that of most other electrodes, so the heat input is actually somewhat less. I still think that 6010/6011 are better for thin metal because the arc is more controllable.
John
Your comments, not so much.Un-punctuated, run-on "sentences" are not only hard to read and understand, they make the poster seem immature and disrespectful of others' time. If you write like an adult, you will be treated as one.
Just the humble opinions of another Welding Nun.
On topic, the arc voltage of 6013s is lower than that of most other electrodes, so the heat input is actually somewhat less. I still think that 6010/6011 are better for thin metal because the arc is more controllable.
John
Joined
·
183 Posts
How do you keep those "habits" from catching on fire?Shortfuse's suggestions were quite appropriate, and a bit more civil than mine would have been.
Un-punctuated, run-on "sentences" are not only hard to read and understand, they make the poster seem immature and disrespectful of others' time. If you write like an adult, you will be treated as one.
Just the humble opinions of another Welding Nun.
On topic, the arc voltage of 6013s is lower than that of most other electrodes, so the heat input is actually somewhat less. I still think that 6010/6011 are better for thin metal because the arc is more controllable.
John
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
a 1/8 7018 needs at least 105 amps (i like to run them at about 120 amps) to run properly and is used on 1/4 inch and up usually.
the 5/32 7018 likes around 180 amps (atleast thats where i have luck with it) and is suited for heavy metel. like 3/8 and up
the 3/32 7018 will run alot lower, like 80-90 amps and would be more suited for 1/8 inch metal.
in vertical position always run a 7018 up hill!! and always on DCEP ( just good info)
the 6010 (or 6011) is a deep penetrating rod and the 1/8 version likes at least 90 amps but runs really good for me at around 100 on clean metal. you can get away with it on 3/32 in metal but keep it around 90 amps and move fast. for 1/8 inch metal you are going to want the 3/32 version and it will run fine at 75 amps.
the 6010 likes DCEP and the 6011 will run on DCEP or AC
the 6013 is a crappy rod in my opinion. don't oscillate it all!! it cant run over its own slag. just a slow drag with a 5 degree rod angle to push the slag back some. it runs on the same amperages as 7018s and will run on any current. but its likely to crack if you run it on DCEP, so stick with DCEN or AC.
its a low penetrating rod too.
hope this helps you out some.
the 5/32 7018 likes around 180 amps (atleast thats where i have luck with it) and is suited for heavy metel. like 3/8 and up
the 3/32 7018 will run alot lower, like 80-90 amps and would be more suited for 1/8 inch metal.
in vertical position always run a 7018 up hill!! and always on DCEP ( just good info)
the 6010 (or 6011) is a deep penetrating rod and the 1/8 version likes at least 90 amps but runs really good for me at around 100 on clean metal. you can get away with it on 3/32 in metal but keep it around 90 amps and move fast. for 1/8 inch metal you are going to want the 3/32 version and it will run fine at 75 amps.
the 6010 likes DCEP and the 6011 will run on DCEP or AC
the 6013 is a crappy rod in my opinion. don't oscillate it all!! it cant run over its own slag. just a slow drag with a 5 degree rod angle to push the slag back some. it runs on the same amperages as 7018s and will run on any current. but its likely to crack if you run it on DCEP, so stick with DCEN or AC.
its a low penetrating rod too.
hope this helps you out some.
Joined
·
2,520 Posts
Wood....correct spelling is "ulcer".
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
