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weldinghomer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I understand for code quality work the 7018 rods are checked out of ovens and if unused baked to restore their condition.

I also know that a lot of welders use these without oven storage or oven drying prior to use.

My question then is what good are these rods without oven storage and treatment over say 6011.

Is a rod that was opened and stored in an airtight storage tube with occasional brief openings to extract a few new ones any good at all over 6011.
 
7018 cold, is not a problem for mild steel....
I use cold 7018 for everything...
Unless your welding high alloy stuff, you don't need a rod oven...
Period.


7018 cold, is way above 6011....
 
7018 even when not kept in an oven produces a more ductile weld with higher tensile strength than 6010/6011. Also produces less spatter with a smoother weld profile while depositing more metal.
 
I wish I had a dollar for every pound of 7018 I've run in the pouring down rain.
 

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks

This info is very hard to find.

Is it OK to just open a package and put it into a good rod keeper with a rubber seal.
 
Thanks

This info is very hard to find.

Is it OK to just open a package and put it into a good rod keeper with a rubber seal.
Your right, it's hard to find.
All your welding supply's want to sell you a rod oven...

I have a rod guard container, works find.
I have a handful of Lincoln 10lb cans, with the red lids.
And the Washington Alloy blue boxes.

They all work fine.
I do have a 300lb Phoenix oven, and there's a 4 50lb boxes of 7018 in it.
3/32", 1/8", 5/320, and 3/16"....

I rarely turn it on...

Just keep your rods try, and weld conservatively...

John
 
Sure, or store them in the house on top of your hot water heater. 7018 runs best when hot. We use to stick the rod under one arm, and clamp the stinger on the rod with the other hand. Because we always had wet gloves. Then ground the rod out, before welding with it.
 

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Thanks

This info is very hard to find.

Is it OK to just open a package and put it into a good rod keeper with a rubber seal.


If you're buying it in the airtight sealed can, they are ready to go out of the can


If you buy them in the cardboard packages in the hardware store, you have to give them a high temp bake

read the paper package insert

I use the high temp kitchen oven cleaning setting to get that bake, then keep them in a sealed rod keeper with desiccant

Then use a toaster oven to warm them as I use them.


There is a difference in how they run hot vs cold.
 
I usually find the best looking rod in the box, throw a nice long bead down with it, then pile some rods around the bead I just welded... By the 3rd rod they are nice and toasty!

Disclaimer:; if you are doing structural welds, you definitely want to bake them to get any moisture out of the flux. Other than that... Just burn em!:)
 
I had some water proof 10018 it was covered with type of gold paint ,I was repairing a wedge on a log splitter in the rain , when I pulled out that rod the guy I was working for was just like what the F#*k is that. I gather it is for under water welding, If you can keep them dazzled it is easier to bull sh** them!
 
I had some water proof 10018 it was covered with type of gold paint ,I was repairing a wedge on a log splitter in the rain , when I pulled out that rod the guy I was working for was just like what the F#*k is that. I gather it is for under water welding, If you can keep them dazzled it is easier to bull sh** them!
You should've told him they were left over sparklers form the 4th of July. Then he'd really be cursing :D
 
6011 weld beads look like crap compared to a good 7018 bead. I run cold 7018 rods all the time at home. They run fine. I'm not doing any code quality work at home welding farm wagons etc. At work however, all I do is structural code work and are our rods are to be kept in ovens all the time. If QC catches me welding structural steel with cold rods, I'm on my way to the gate with a one way ticket home. Same goes for the pipe fitter welders welding pressure pipe.
 
I asked before, but nobody seemed to agree on an answer. It would be easy to charge a rod holder with a full vacuum. Or possibly put a bag of decassient in the sealed rod holder. Wouldn't that be almost equal to storing them warm? It wouldn't help with the warm start issue, but it seems to me it would keep moisture out. Any new thoughts on that?
 
Jeez, unless its a bridge, or certain jobs the inspectors never check to see if our rods are in an oven.. Most of the time they've been in an open box in the truck for weeks, sometimes wet. Hell I cant tell you how many bar joist Ive welded with cold 7018 or 7024 in water + paint.

Sounds hack, but i don't see any buildings falling down from failed welds do you?
 
I asked before, but nobody seemed to agree on an answer. It would be easy to charge a rod holder with a full vacuum. Or possibly put a bag of decassient in the sealed rod holder. Wouldn't that be almost equal to storing them warm? It wouldn't help with the warm start issue, but it seems to me it would keep moisture out. Any new thoughts on that?
 
90% of the guys on this board don't have enough experience to tell the difference between a 7018 rod that moisture contaminated and one that isn't.
Just open the box, burn em up. Store what you don't use in a sealed tube with desiccant. No issues.
 
I know the cost of power varies all over. PG&E is the biggest rip off I've ever heard of:eek:. My shop is on it's own power meter, my 300-pound rod oven is on 24/7. I never seen an increase in the power bill. So if you find a good deal on an oven buy it. 7018 runs so sweet right out of the oven.:cool:
 

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