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Root Pass and Grinding Questions....

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Green Welder

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
...on open v-groove 3/8" mild steel.

I'm a new student in welding school having problems with making a decent root pass(6010 rod at 65-75 amps with 1/8" gap) that doesn't need to be grinded to hell and also has good penetration all the way through. I see some guys who's backside of the plate just looks beautiful. Do you actually jam the rod into the gap and make it keyhole?
How many rods should I burn on the root pass? I've been trying to use 3 throughout the seven inch plate evenly. It seems to give me a thick enough root so, after I'm done grinding, I don't burn through with the hot pass. But that's only if i get a smooth weld all the way across. Getting an even weld throughout is proving to be difficult with my rod sticking often. Also, when connecting welds on the root pass i always screw it up. The keyhole begins to close and I never seem to be able to deposit enough filler metal before the hole closes and i lose my arc. I then have to grind that area down to nothing and it will continue to be a problem area.

It turns into a vicious cycle of grinding, welding, grinding, welding and my weld never seems to get anywhere. I've had some of these problems with the flat position, but it's multiplied with horizontal. There is no doubt in my mind that it's all due to being a brand new welder and I'll eventually get it, but I'd appreciate any tips that could speed me up.
 
#3 ·
Judging by the numbers, and the fact that you are sticking and closing the keyhole and losing your arc, I'ld say you are too cold. Bump it up into the 80's and try again.
 
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#4 ·
If your keyhole is closing up you either need to tighten up your manipulation to concentrate the heat beter, or turn your amps up. It sounds like your too cold, I usually run 75-85 amps with 5p+ on the root depending on the fit and the machine.

You do need to keep the rod right in the opening, you shouldnt even be able to see much of the arc. A good keyhole is a must for 6010 roots, learn how to control the size and you'll be golden.

I use around 2 rods on my roots, but that doesn't really mean anything. All that matters is that you have enough material in there to lay the hot pass in.
 
#7 ·
I can't give you any advice with authority since I'm just a student. I've been stuck on overhead and finally got the hang of it at the end of an 8 hour marathon session. I found that I have to really jam it up in the crack. It has been a two-hand procedure wiggling it back and forth. The tip of my electrode reminds me of a mesa.

Image


Also it seems like you need to be able to hear it roaring out the back. I'm hard of hearing and this is slightly problematic. Fortunately I am able to see the light and smoke coming out from behind which is useful while learning.
 
#8 ·
Your heat is in range, but you should have 3/32 land and 3/32 gap. You should be able to get that with 2 sticks of 1/8 6010 rod. Maintain your gap by placing a wedge about 3/4 of the way across the plate. I would stay between 65 and 70 amps. At the gap and heat you describe, and that you use at least 3 rods to get across the plate, I would guess that you are also having a hard time controlling the keyhole.
 
#9 ·
WHughes said:
Your heat is in range, but you should have 3/32 land and 3/32 gap. You should be able to get that with 2 sticks of 1/8 6010 rod. Maintain your gap by placing a wedge about 3/4 of the way across the plate. I would stay between 65 and 70 amps. At the gap and heat you describe, and that you use at least 3 rods to get across the plate, I would guess that you are also having a hard time controlling the keyhole.
Click to expand...
65 amps i thought we were talking 3/32 6010. are you saying use 65-70 amps on 1/8 6010? even with the 3/32 land it sounds low.....
 
#10 ·
Each person will have their own technique.

What works for me on 1/8 land and gap with 1/8 6010 is about 80 amps. Strike the arc and hold for a second or so to heat it up. When you get to the tack edge push it in to get the weld to the back of the tack then start manipulating your key hole. When you get to your top tack push it in again and point the electrode towards the tack to get to the back of the root.

Practice makes perfect.
 
#11 ·
I suggest you put that grinder away, you won't have that luxury when testing on plate.

I too believe you're in the proper range for amps with 1/8 rod. I like a heavy 1/16 to 5/64 inch land, and same for gap.
 

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#12 ·
sn0border88 said:
Did you read the post?
Click to expand...
Several times actually,

Do you a constructive answer for me?
You could of used it when you replied to the thread
instead of attempting to chastise me. That doesn't help anyone.

Thanks for being super cool:rolleyes:
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
jsm, it's open.

My landing is 1/8" with a 1/8" gap. My it's hard to describe and produce pics during the weekend but my keyhole doesn't exactly close up on its own. It's when I'm going to close it is where i get problems. I'll be using a "c" motion with everything going great and i get to my previous weld. I keep consistent with my motions and as soon as it closes i normally get my rod stuck. What I am aiming to do is keep the arc going and kinda circle around for a couple seconds where I just connected the weld to have enough filler in there. Is that right? I don't believe the issue is with being too hot/cold. I can control that well enough now. I haven't tried this but maybe starting in the middle would be better?

CEP, I would gladly put the damn grinder away :). My instructor seems pretty set on us grinding any little imperfection to **** before putting another bead down. It seems like overkill and it's a huge time waster. Is there another proper way? Again, I'm gonna try and produce some pics. I have basically been welding, grinding the sides of the weld down SMOOTH, then keep going as to not have porosity in my welds, but it seems that i wouldn't have to grind everything so smooth. Isn't this **** like 10000 degrees? Wouldn't it melt an approximate 1/8-3/16" into the previous weld if all conditions are ideal?

a lot of good suggestions, thanks.
 
#14 ·
Green Welder said:
jsm, it's open.

My landing is 1/8" with a 1/8" gap. My it's hard to describe and produce pics during the weekend but my keyhole doesn't exactly close up on its own. It's when I'm going to close it is where i get problems. I'll be using a "c" motion with everything going great and i get to my previous weld. I keep consistent with my motions and as soon as it closes i normally get my rod stuck. What I am aiming to do is keep the arc going and kinda circle around for a couple seconds where I just connected the weld to have enough filler in there. Is that right? I don't believe the issue is with being too hot/cold. I can control that well enough now. I haven't tried this but maybe starting in the middle would be better?

CEP, I would gladly put the damn grinder away :). My instructor seems pretty set on us grinding any little imperfection to **** before putting another bead down. It seems like overkill and it's a huge time waster. Is there another proper way? Again, I'm gonna try and produce some pics. I have basically been welding, grinding the sides of the weld down SMOOTH, then keep going as to not have porosity in my welds, but it seems that i wouldn't have to grind everything so smooth. Isn't this **** like 10000 degrees? Wouldn't it melt an approximate 1/8-3/16" into the previous weld if all conditions are ideal?

a lot of good suggestions, thanks.
Click to expand...
Push the rod deep into the weld pool.
The majority of the sparks should shoot through the backside.
It will have a distinct sound when you get it right. It WILL sound different when you get it correct....Find that spot, make your technical circles/c's to fill the weld up.
LISTEN to the metal.
It'll sound like hot *** bacon frying in a pan full of grease.
Learning that sound is key.
Make sure as you make your circles up the groove
touch/ carve both walls out.

In terms of the grinding it's good practice. Teaches you to learn and correct dicontinuities in the weld. "SO SMOOTH"...I grind mine down to be fairly smooth. You will not to chance slag, impurities, porosity being the underlying cause of failing an x-ray, ut, pt, etc...It is an easily controllable part of what we do, and take advantage where you can...Ya know.
To answer your question: most impurities are burnt off/up during your hot pass. I won't chance it though.....

I generally run my root around 65
Hot 75
Cap 90

I think it is all in the heat control...And I run my root cold by many peoples standards.

Your on the right track...And likely not far off...Practice, practice, practice.....

GL
 
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#17 ·
Just remember every weld echoes to the next. You want to be able to place each weld without wagon tracks, or imperfections so you can clean it up with the next pass.
I can't ever remember taking a plate test where I was allowed the use of a grinder. Pipe tests, yes.

Here is a root pass on the outside.
 

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#18 ·
weldbead said:
65 amps i thought we were talking 3/32 6010. are you saying use 65-70 amps on 1/8 6010? even with the 3/32 land it sounds low.....
Click to expand...
Yes, 1/8 6010. And many will have a different answer here. A friend of mine used to put roots in at 85 with the same land and gap as mine. He has since come to the light. Its all finesse with an open butt stick root.
 
#20 ·
CEP said:
Just remember every weld echoes to the next. You want to be able to place each weld without wagon tracks, or imperfections so you can clean it up with the next pass.
I can't ever remember taking a plate test where I was allowed the use of a grinder. Pipe tests, yes.

Here is a root pass on the outside.
Click to expand...
You whip yer root, huh? I was taught to drag my roots, while watching the keyhole. Only time I whip is when keyhole is too big, or fit-up sucks..

Grinder on tests: Pipe...Yes, Plate...No
 
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