new to forum but have read alot of helpful stuff here. I am welding t joints with 6013 3/32 dcep at about 80 amps. no problems with burn through but having alot of problems with slag in weld and in middle of weld . Did similar joints with 7018 other day no problems and some vertical also no problems. Haveing trouble getting hold of the 6013 tricks for good welds. any advise would be appreciated. thanks
6013 stick problems
weldjet
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new to forum but have read alot of helpful stuff here. I am welding t joints with 6013 3/32 dcep at about 80 amps. no problems with burn through but having alot of problems with slag in weld and in middle of weld . Did similar joints with 7018 other day no problems and some vertical also no problems. Haveing trouble getting hold of the 6013 tricks for good welds. any advise would be appreciated. thanks
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slow down and make sure you build your weld bead. also you want to try and weld with the rod at nearly 90 degrees to the direction of travel and 45 ish to the joint. you can tilt the rod 10 degrees or so into the direction of travel.
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6013's don't need an oven and make a beautiful weld.
that said, I run my exposed 7018's on non critical stuff around the house all the time. I also use the 6013's too. It just depends on my mood really.
first off thankyou everybody for the advice i tried everything people said and found amperage to be biggest problem i think, bad welds were in range of 50 to 80 amps the better welds were run at 90 amps dcen. I am useing 6013 rod because what i need to weld is some pipe where one piece fits in to another poor fit and cant get it very clean , about 1/8 to 3/16 thick so i thought the med penetration of 6013 would help. i am trying to post pic. thanks again very good info and awesome forum.
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I use 6013 quite abit due to finding them on sale. the last 3, 50lb boxes of 6013 I have bought I purchased at $35.00 a piece. SO 150lbs of rods or 50lbs of rods at the same cost for noncritical welds is a no brainer for me. 6013 is a great rod for non critical welds.
MadMax31 hit the nail on the head. If you let the slag get ahead of you, or you don't maintain a proper rod angle, that is the result you are going to get. That is not the proper rod to be using for poor fit ups until you develope some skill. The shallow penetration characteristic of the rod makes it desirable for sheet metal work, but with practice, any rod will work for what you are doing.
I hope this is not for a paying customer.
I hope this is not for a paying customer.
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As has been said, MORE current. About 100-110A will help alot with 6013. (for shorter runs or your rods will go black) 100A is fine for most things. The 6013 has a heavy slag is difficult to distinguish between it and the puddle. No more than 15 degrees drag angle and keep a TIGHT arc.
By nature, the 6013 and a long arc means lots o slag inclusion and worm holes.
On a side note: I don't know why all you yanks hate these rods so much as they produce fantastic welds with the right technique. Us aussies cant use 6010 rods for **** so we use what we use and you do the same. Please stop telling people what they should and should not be using because it's their choice in the end.
By nature, the 6013 and a long arc means lots o slag inclusion and worm holes.
On a side note: I don't know why all you yanks hate these rods so much as they produce fantastic welds with the right technique. Us aussies cant use 6010 rods for **** so we use what we use and you do the same. Please stop telling people what they should and should not be using because it's their choice in the end.
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I agree to a certain extent with our aussie friend. It seems to me that E6013 electrodes are quite misunderstood by some on this forum, and 90% of the time when people make posts stating to use E7018 electrodes there is actually no need. Most people asking about electrode selection on this forum are using common or garden mild steel, which can be welded up to 20mm thick (3/4") perfectly well with a 6013 (and in some cases thicker). Even for pipe work 6013 can be used, depending on the tensile strength of the pipe, wall thickness
and aplication. Some structural steel can, and is also welded with 6013, again , depending on the material and wall thickness.
With regards to the photos posted the second fillet looks fine although I'd go easy with the chipping hammer and use a cold chisel instead. I'd run a 2.5mm(3/32) 6013 at about 95amps for that weld, making sure to push it right into the corner.
and aplication. Some structural steel can, and is also welded with 6013, again , depending on the material and wall thickness.
With regards to the photos posted the second fillet looks fine although I'd go easy with the chipping hammer and use a cold chisel instead. I'd run a 2.5mm(3/32) 6013 at about 95amps for that weld, making sure to push it right into the corner.
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95 amps for a 3/32??? Maybe for a 1/8th. A 3/32 would catch fire before you burned half the rod.
One of the main reasons 7018 is so popular here in the states in my opinion is due to the codes we have to weld to. 7018 is pushed by engineers. It has been tested to death and is trusted over every feasible rod out there for almost every steel application. It is the benchmark that engineers reference. Now welders learn to trust that rod like manna from heaven. When in doubt, 7018. If you need it to hold, 7018. 7018 is elevated to be the end all.
I used a bunch of 6013 due to cost and finding it on sale. I also use as much 7024 as I can as I LOVE that rod. I ran a 50lb box of 7014 recently. Most of what I do is simple stuff now. If I have something that is important and critical then 7018 because it is protected by precedent here. Even though I trust 6013, I am going to play it safe and use 7018 unless directed by an engineer to use something else.
I welded a set a upper rails for a trailer, I used 6013. I built a ladder rack, mower ramps and weed eater racks for a trailer and used 6013. For the tool box I welded I used 6013, and for all the other stuff on the trailer I used 6013. For these purposes, it is a great rod...inexpensive, easy to use, and beautiful bead.
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I beg to differ! I've checked my conversion from metric to imperial and 3/32 is as near as you'll get to 2.5mm (at least in welding rod terms) and yes you can, and I have, run them at 95amps many, many times, and I've not had one set on fire yet. Although, it is on the high end of the recomended range of current that electrode should be run on.
Esab OK 46.00 (click on specifications to see the recomended current range)
Some fair points, and thanks for taking the time to explain the American mindset with regards to the E7018. I guess at the end of the day it just comes down to using the right rod for the right job, and if you have a choice, then use the one you're most comfortable with.:drinkup:
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