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New 90 amp 68887 flux core welder

44K views 48 replies 20 participants last post by  reallifedog  
#1 ·
I went to harbor freight today to get their pipe threader on sale and was ease dropping on a conversation about welders and the employee said that they were expecting to get the new and improved 90 amp welder in pretty soon.I asked him about it and all he knew was that it was supposed to be better than the old one and handed me their Thanksgiving sales flyer with it in it.
Maybe they actually made it a DC welder like I did to mine,just have to wait and see I reckon.
 

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#2 ·
I saw those side by side with the blue ones at the Vallejo store on Wednesday. Reading everything on the outside of the box, it seems to be the same welder in a new cabinet. Maybe just a new color scheme on the same cabinet. The controls are identical.

Maybe just an excuse to raise prices?

But there should be some good closeout deals on the 98871!
 
#3 ·
They ought to at least add a bridge rectifier in there to convert the AC over to DC so they would at least be a DC flux core welder.
 
#4 ·
Another thing I noticed - Their new flux core wire has a big label DC ONLY.

Of course it was stacked on top of the 98871 welders. (which are AC).
 
#6 · (Edited)
I found the manual for it:
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/68000-68999/68887.pdf

The diagram below says DCEN, but I don't see any form of rectifier on the output - or a choke. The only rectifier appears to be between the tiny control-board transformer, and the control board. Can some genius tell us what is going on here? Seems to me if the output comes straight from the main transformer (as shown in the schematic) then this is little different from #98871 which shares the name '90 amp flux wire welder' and specifies AC output on its faceplate label.

Here is the specification chart in the manual. Only '90 amp flux wire welder' in big letters and Input, Capacity, Wire Size from the chart below, are shown on the welder. (No mention of DC).

View attachment 74694
 
#7 ·
It still is AC only output, they have gone away from the SIP/Cosmo style wire drive, added a separate power transformer for the drive, closer to the mods done on the MIG131/151 for feed stabilization and the added fan looks like the one in the 131/151.

Not much difference, a bit of "lipstick & mascara" and a new model number! :nono:

Guess it walks like a duck...... :drinkup:

George
 
#8 ·
I traded in my 98871 for one of the 68887's. I don't know about a rectifier, I haven't taken it apart yet. The box does clearly label that it is a hot tip, however, I just got finished welding with it, and the wire will not arc without pulling the trigger.:cool: I tested this a few times to be sure. I'll take the thing apart to tell you if it is actually DCEN or not tomorrow.
 
#9 ·
I'll take the thing apart to tell you if it is actually DCEN or not tomorrow.
Please put a DC voltmeter on it too. We're all curious. Even an oscilloscope if you can get access to one. (Caution, the no-load voltage might be surprisingly high).

So far the only evidence of DCEN is in that online manual, but not claimed on the welder or its box. I'm not hopeful.

Does the paper manual you received match the online pdf manual?

Thanks for investigating this!
 
#11 ·
Ok, So I took a look inside of the welder and saw nothing that looked like a rectifier, but I am NOT an electrician, so I'm not sure exactly what I was looking for. I snapped a few pics to put up here, so you all can take a look.










As to the voltmeter. Set on VDC it came out to something like -.234 or something like that, but 22.34 VAC. Tell me what you think.
 
#13 ·
DC Volts = -0.234? A quarter volt?

"Just a regular Harbor Freight AC flux core welder with a fan" as Bluewelders just said.

Oh well.
 
#16 ·
Ok, 2 volts. I think it's still an AC welder, because around 20 volts is needed to maintain an arc.

Thanks for posting what you are finding. I agree the new features are a step up, but I wouldn't upgrade, for myself, unless I had actually gone in to buy a welder and had to choose one or the other. In that case the new one is obviously the better choice.
 
#17 ·
those of you that have one of these welders, or the older one, what do you think of them? I have been thinking about getting one to use for small fab work on my Jeep like shock mounts or control arm brackets,etc. and to help practice welding, would this be good for that? 3/16" thickness would typically be the max but maybe some 1/4" for making a bumper and stuff, can this do those? Would it be single pass or multiple pass? Thanks for any input you can privide me with. I would really like to have my own welder to use from time to time, but I can't swing $400-$500 very easily. What do you guys think?
 
#18 ·
I think its too light for structural work like that. I just finished a project building a 'toolbar', an 8 ft wide crossbar behind my 1800 lb, 18 hp tractor that has several short chains back to a spike harrow pulled behind. (The spike harrow has to float over bumps). It is quite possible for the spike harrow to hit something and halt the tractor with the tires slipping, to give an idea of the strength I need on this project. I expect a jeep is in a similar range of stress.

I started fabricating the toolbar mounts with my 90A Flux welder using .035 flux wire - then looked at it and got out the stick welder to complete the project. If the 90A welder won't put down a heavy enough bead to stand up to an 18 hp tractor then I wouldn't fabricate a Jeep winch bumper or shock mount with it.


I'm just making this up but I suspect these flux welders are used all over China to fabricate all that just-good-enough furniture at Wallmart and Target. The stuff with the crude welds underneath. I don't think it is suitable for anything on a jeep heavier than an exhaust pipe hanger - maybe not even that if the pipe will drag the ground occasionally.

I paid $50 for an old (1960's) 230AC stick welder. It works fine for my farm fabrication. I've never torn up anything I built. Or pay more for DC if anyone is going to see your welds. :D

I suggest start by searching Craigslist.
 
#19 ·
new to this forum, and this is my first post. i picked up one of the new welders from hf. was wondering also what the different was, but this sticker is on the inside lid.
<a href="http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/wes122984/?action=view&current=IMAG0045.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/wes122984/IMAG0045.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
#20 · (Edited)
I was at Harbor Freight today and looked over both boxes trying to find out what's different or "new and improved"

The only difference that I spotted on the box was the "duty cycle". If I remember right, the new black (model #68887) listed a 25% duty cycle on the box while the old blue model listed duty cycle of 30%.

They only had a old blue model on display so I couldn't look for any other physical changes.

If I do get one, the first upgrade is a better ground clamp with some real copper grounding tips. Also, some better flux wire as I here the HF stuff is crap.
I need to weld some 1/8" mild steel in the next week and need a cheap welder.

QUESTION: I've heard that for welding thicker steel on a barely adequate 90 amp welder, that you should "pre-heat" the steel with a propane torch before welding. Do you think I should do this for 1/8" or thicker steel? Does it help?
 
#25 ·
It all depends on what you're doing. If it's something that won't see a lot of stress, this welder will do the job. If your life or someone else's is on the line, better spring for a heftier unit. The ground cable and clamp need to be upgraded in order to get the best performance out of the welder. As for preheating, it will help a little. Material as thin as 1/8" shouldn't need it though, unless you're worried about distortion. Even then, if you clamp the material, you shouldn't have a problem. Check out Jody Collier's "Welding Tips and Tricks" on the web. He has vids that wll help.
 
#21 ·
Don't waste your time on this welder if you need to weld 1/8". You aren't going to get the penetration you need.

If you go ahead anyway, use .035 flux wire from a real welding store - Lincoln etc.

See my post of 11/5, a couple of posts above this one.
 
#24 ·
The new welders are DC. DCEN means "Direct Current Electrode Negative". I downloaded the manual and there is a rectifier in the torch circuit and a choke on the ground side. The ground wire is still puny and the clamp is still crap, though. Both need upgrading in order to get the best performance. I'm just trying to wear out my old blue guy so I have an excuse to get one of these. So far, it just keeps on truckin', though.
 
#26 ·
I downloaded the manual and there is a rectifier in the torch circuit and a choke on the ground side.
Are we looking at the same manual?

In
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/68000-68999/68887.pdf
page 29 the leads go straight from the output side of the transformer to the ground and torch. I don't see a choke or rectifier, or see them listed in 'Parts' on the following page.

The only diodes I see are on the 110v input side, and feed the control board.

Take a look at Jackwelder's posts in this thread in early November. He measured 2V DC, 22 VAC output.

I would like this to be DCEN but I'm not convinced, given that diagram and jackwelder's observations.

Did you find a different manual?
 
#27 ·
I traded my old blue one off last year, and probubly will get one of these if not just for tack welding things before arc welding them. Like stated before, if you have to weld something thick, I would get a DC arc welder. I got my 105/125amp DC/AC 220 welder for 75.00 and I trust it to weld up to 5/16, with multi pass 3/32 rod at 90+ amps. 1/8 rod will burn with it, but 3/32 is better since you aren't running out of amps like maxing it out to try and run 1/8 rod. I use mainly 7018, but you can make some damn nice fillet welds with one. Made my own back drag snow plow with a 5lb box of 7018 and a used 75.00 harbor freight welder. I don't recommend going with a AC buzz box. DC is so much better, and it opens the world to rods you can use, where you have to get 6011 or 7018ac rod with a ac welder.
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#32 ·
I'm a total welding noob and i bought one of the new versions of this welder the other day, I think i payed like $110 for it. It seems to work fine for what it is, I basically bought it because I'm working on building my HD sportster chopper and I needed to be able to weld little things like fuel/oil tank and fender mounts to the frame, nothing critical to the frame structure and this is about the only welder I can afford right now.

I can pop it open when i get home from work later today and take some pics of the innards. I bought some LE flux core wire and messed with it for the first time last night just trying to lay down some beads but as far as DC or AC , I'm really not sure
 
#33 ·
For the AC/DC debate on this welder, here is a statement from HF tech:

"Reply from HF tech support on AC vs DC:

The information on the website is incorrect; welder is not DCEN but AC output. Website, packaging and manual are scheduled to be revised for the next shipment. We do apologize about the misleading information you found."
 
#34 · (Edited)
I purchased this POS last week on sale after reading so many positive opinions and it went back the next day. I needed a cheap portable welder to leave at a job site because I didn't want to leave my good rigs there. Poor build quality and the primary reason it failed was the wire feed mechanism. It would not feed any wire reliably including my Lincoln wire. I have no doubt it was defective but I was too pissed to chance another one. My advice: not worth the paper coupon it's printed on.

edit: mine was an AC unit, not DC. It will arc if the gun touches any metal surface while plugged in regardless of the trigger. The warning was on the outside of the box too.