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Thanks for the input guys! Much appreciated. I havent given up on the heat yet but this was one idea i had....

Put a heavy rectangular tube crossmember in the table, clamp down the high spot and weld it. With those slots it should move fairly easily.
I wanted to avoid adding any structure in the middle of the table if possible as it will making clamping a little more awkward. If it comes down to it, ill do that though.


the frame is MUCH more square than the top is. when i was cutting the top off i noticed an air gap in the center so it was clearly warped before it was welded to the frame.

Planning on messing with it some more this week. I really wanna put this thing to work!
 
Re: The flame quenching, heat shrinking,c, bending thread

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread here, but after a bout with warping this past weekend myself, I'm curious about the "cold bending" before welding that you mentioned Zap...

I built a 10' long ladder/canoe rack for a truck and it warped about 3/4" after welding only two uprights on. :angry: I was able to get it pretty close to straight again by flame straightening, but would like to know how to avoid this in the future.

The problem pieces for me were 10' long 1 1/2" x 2" rectangular tubing. I welded three uprights to one side and was quite surprised to see the warp when I finished.
You would need a flat table at least 11 feet long to combat what you have going on....

Basically... You sometimes have a test piece but in your application that would be not financially fiscal...

What you do is do a test run and see where it bends and measure the bend and where it happened...
Next piece you clamp the ends down with the proper spacer where the bend happened...
Weld..let cool...unclamp.

Should be pretty much straight.

I do it all the time with stuff I don't want to machine after if it is not too critical...

It works.

I have a few posts somewhere here with pictures so happy searching....


...zap!
 
Re: The flame quenching, heat shrinking,c, bending thread

Heat shrinking..
Heat bending...
Heat straightening...
Heat anything has been beat to death here.
Do a search..
We are all seasoned veterans here...At least some of us are...

How about cold bending before welding to keep flat after welding?
That's been done also...;)


...zap!
Jesus Zap, if I were a seasoned veteran, I wouldn't be here. I'm here for an education. If I can relay some piece of knowledge someone gave me, I've not been a total parasite. Distortion is my nemesis. Without it, my stuff would look good. I hope this thread like others will leave me better equipped to not only anticipate, but prevent.
 
Re: The flame quenching, heat shrinking,c, bending thread

My Massachusetts friend, near brother, talked my son into rebuilding a rust bucket dump trailer. The box was essentially a rectangle of 2" channel with more cross members. This floor frame was then covered with 10 gauge steel. My son built the floor frame, and began stitching the sheet to it. All was going well, until Bruce, the owner came along and wanted to MIG weld. He welded the whole perimeter of the sheet in pretty much one continuous bead. It was shaped more a bowl than a table top. Turning it over, I heated the now upper edge of each piece of channel, cooling with an air hose. I got the frame quite flat. the sheet floor though, was too big in the middle. Heat shrinking was going to take a lifetime. I gave in and cut a big X across it with abrasive saw, and welded it back together.

I'm not sure I understand how quick cooling increases shrinkage, but it does. Mild, low carbon steel isn't affected much by this.
 
IME that table is to flimsy to heat straighten easily, especially for someone's first time. Not only is the material thin, the slots make the behavior more unpredictable.

I would forget about trying to heat straighten the top and weld a strong back to the bottom of the table to both straighten and stiffen the top.
 
I was very successful straightening my 4X5x3/8" top with Farmersamms instructions. I did cut it loose from the frame where the bulges were. You really don't need many welds to hold it to the frame anyway. Once cut free I marked out all the high spots with a Sharpie using numbers to indicate severity. It looked like a topo map when I got it all marked up. Then I clamped down some doubled up 2X2X3/8" angle in two places at a time, with the high spots in between them, starting at the worst areas. Using a cutting torch(preheat), I heated in concentrated, thin lines getting a dull red color, hotter on the higher spots. Sprayed with a heavy mist afterwords and left in the clamped position for a good 1/2 hour each time. Kept re-checking and re-marking with the Sharpie, moving the rig around as needed. After a few hours of work I could not believe how flat I had gotten it! Fine tuned it over several days to near perfect.

There is still one tiny spot that would not move, right at the edge of the frame where it is still welded down. Once I cut those welds loose I have no doubt I will be able to straighten that bump easily.
 
There is still one tiny spot that would not move, right at the edge of the frame where it is still welded down. Once I cut those welds loose I have no doubt I will be able to straighten that bump easily.
Here’s how you fix those spots. ;)
 

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On the bowed table with slots, cutting the top loose and running a heavy beam under the bottom cross members for the legs and using a come-a-long pulling from the slots slots might be all it needs to pull it flat prior to tacking it back to the frame. Might have to pull it a little extra or use a couple small lines of heat on the bottom and leave tension on it till it cools. A while ago I posted pictures of some huge bridge beams (for an Edmonton bridge) that warped all to hell because the contractor didn't put the bracing in as they were installing the individual beams. Most people thought the beams were junk but they were sent out to one of the local structural steel shops and flame straightened. It put the bridge project a year behind schedule. Just last week they decided to delay pouring the concrete because the weather is too cold. It's estimated the contractor will pay about $4,000,000 for their %$#@&*! up. They had to bring in a huge 1200 ton crane to lift the whole bridge down and are paying $11,500/day in late penalties. It would have been even more if they would have needed to fabricate new beams.
 
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