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GunDoctorHTown

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I bought a Smith SC209 with a SW1 handle off Ebay because I wanted a heavy duty torch and everybody says Smith is the ticket. Being unfamiliar with Smith equipment what would I look for to tell whether it should be rebuilt or not. I haven't hooked it up yet because I need a new tip and the LWS only carry Victor tips. What can you use to clean a torch without running into the high pressure oxygen makes **** explode thing? The "socket" where the tip goes is kinda sooty, is that bad? How hard should it be to turn on/off the acetylene/oxygen gas knobs? Lastly how much does OAdoctor charge to R&R a torch?

I have a Victor torch which works great, has been a great torch since I got it new & I didn't need another but you know the it's different must be better itch must be scratched from time to time, so that's where I am.

Thanks ya'll, happy labor day.
 
Soot on the seat usually means a bad tip, or a worn seat. Install a new tip and see how it works. FYI, that should be a lifetime torch. You must have a genuine Smith tip for warranty coverage.
 
there are tip cleaners, to clean the holes out,

unless some thing is leaking or not shutting off, use it, are all the "O" rings on the torch,

if the knobs turn hard most likely the packing nuts are to tight, or if there very loose tightening them a bit may help,
 
Victor's have built in arrestors, all Smith torches I have seen need external arrestors.
 
Victor's have built in arrestors, all Smith torches I have seen need external arrestors.
Right. Smith made the DG series for awhile which had a big conical head with a flash arrestor in the head itself, but that's now out of production. At one time I had both a DG straight torch and DG combination cutting attachment, might still have the attachment floating around somewhere. I'm pretty sure that DG torches that get turned in for lifetime warranty repairs are being replaced with SC torches.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I'll post pictures of my torch tomorrow at work, my camera sucks, it takes floppy's.
The tip would need resurfacing, hole cleaning etc. I think ill just replace it, the knock-off victor tips are much cheaper than genuine but smith tips are only $2~ or so more than Chinese ones so no reason to scrimp. I've finally decoded their tip nomenclature which is vastly more complicated than Victor or Harris.
MC tips are medium duty, SC tips are heavy duty, the next number is style of tip, cutting, gouging, rivet washing, regular or heavy pre-heat, Acetylene, Propane, etc. then size of orifice.
I think I'll replace the handle to cutting attachment O-rings and clean it out, I found some oxygen safe cleaner online, I figure it's just prudent to give it a once over before using it.
This is my first not in the wrapper torch to use, I've got two Victors one of the internal flashback arrestor style & one of the newer black plastic handle style I use in my portable propane cutting rig. I "had" a Harris that someone pillaged, still unhappy about that, but I like the Smith, it's all silver & pretty, seems like it would be easier to switch back and forth between cutting, heating & welding tips, and supposedly the tip mix is safer than the others without having flash arrestors on it.
 
They make a heating tip which fits directly in place of a cutting tip. While it may seem complicated, the SC series has the largest variety of cutting, gouging and other specialty tips, of any manufacturer.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
So last night I got brave and removed the packing nut and stem from the Acetylene knob on the handle. It was packed with teflon tape, based upon the picture I saw of the repair kit I thought this was wrong. So I removed the oxygen knob, it had a teflon something or fiber washer which seemed correct. As well as the Acetylene seat which had a lot of carbon buildup and upon further investigation some insect died inside the oxygen passage for the cutting attachment o-ring spigot. Looking harder at it, I think somebody has been into it before jacking with the seals or something. Long story short I'm going to have it professionally rebuilt, for what I paid for it it's worth the money. I'll just get to have somebody else make it all pretty for me. Thanks everybody for your input.
 
Soot on the seat usually means a bad tip, or a worn seat. Install a new tip and see how it works. FYI, that should be a lifetime torch. You must have a genuine Smith tip for warranty coverage.
The Smith LIFETIME Warranty is only for the original purchaser, so this unit would not be eligible for warranty.
 
Right. Smith made the DG series for awhile which had a big conical head with a flash arrestor in the head itself, but that's now out of production. At one time I had both a DG straight torch and DG combination cutting attachment, might still have the attachment floating around somewhere. I'm pretty sure that DG torches that get turned in for lifetime warranty repairs are being replaced with SC torches.
The DG torch is discontinued. We still rebuild them under warranty, but I do not know how much longer the flash arrestors will be available. The flash arrestor in the DG torch did not protect the cutting jet of the torch. Even with a flash arrestor in the head, it is possible to have a flash back in the cutting valve.
 
What can you use to clean a torch without running into the high pressure oxygen makes **** explode thing? The "socket" where the tip goes is kinda sooty, is that bad? How hard should it be to turn on/off the acetylene/oxygen gas knobs? Lastly how much does OAdoctor charge to R&R a torch?
We sell an oxygen safe degreaser at our online store here: http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/safety-solvant
Just be careful, it works great on metal parts, but it will eat plastic and rubber.

Smith Mixes in the tip, so it is quit common for the head to be a little "sooty". We use a wire brush to clean the heads but with a good tip, the soot should not be an issue.

The cost to rebuild a SC209/SW1 is around $60.00. That includes the following: Replacing all the soft parts (seals, O-rings, gaskets, seats), reseat the head, reseat the preheat valves. Clean and test to manufacturer specs.
Please use this form if you want to send your torch to us for service. http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/internetworkorder.pdf

You can call (770)-267-2522 or PM me if you have any questions.

Jim
 
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