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GeoNOregon

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've been in the market for a MIG welder for a number of years, and have been waiting for a time when having the money and the time to look for one crossed paths.

A couple of years ago, I picked up an IdealArc R3S-325 with an LN-7 wire feed on it for about the price of the 100+ feet of big azz cable it has on it. There's enough cable to weld about 130' from an outlet. The R3S-325 is three phase, though. I had a big cord like that for a Miller atic I had in the '80's, and it was great, so I wanted the setup again.

My original thought was I'd keep the 'extension cord', sell the welder cheap, and look for a welder I could actually use. I then found out the LN-7 could be paired with a DC welder, and looked into that. It seemed fairly straight forward, from what I learned at the time. Then life, and rebuilding the roof on my house from the joists up got in the way, and I am just now getting some time to look at the welder again.

My memory is not the best due to a brain injury, but what I thought was the basics was I needed a DC welder, and then 120v AC for the LN-7. The way it was explained made it seem straight forward, and rather simple. At least that's what I recall.

As I started looking into the project again, I was recently told I actually needed a special power supply for the LN-7, and would need to install some other components in the welder so it and the wire feed would work together. The person who told me this had never done it, though.

So, I'm looking for someone who has put an LN-7 together with a welder. Either a non-Lincoln, or with a Lincoln. Not a theorist, somebody who has done it, and used it, who will let me pick their brain until I have a handle on what I need to look for &/or need to do.

Thanks, in advance, to anyone who can help me sort this out. I struggle with things since the brain injury, and reading manuals isn't enough for me to fully understand the in's & out's.

GeoD
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Never used one, personally. This should help get you started, though.

Hey, thanks... I have that model's gran pappy! The LN-7 I have is an IM 267. I downloaded the manual you posted, for the IM351, hoping it would shed more light on things for me than the earlier manual, but it didn't. It's hard to explain what it's like to be brain damaged.

Stuff you used to know, were able to understand or figure out just make no sense. No matter how many times you read it. But the same stuff can suddenly be understandable if someone shows you, or tells you. But the operant would is 'can'.

It doesn't always. I guess with the manuals with some stuff, it's like it's a foreign language you don't speak. I understand the pictures, and know it has to be wired up, and what that means. If I had to connect the LN-7 to the R3S, I could do that by following the manual, but I wouldn't understand how it worked, what it really did.

I've looked at the manuals I have dozens of times, trying to extrapolate it out to connect it to another machine and it all just swims in my mind. You know what it's like when you get dizzy, and everything 'swims' around in your vision? It's like that is going on, but you can see the stuff plain as day.

I'm 63, and have been working on cars, seriously troubleshooting and repairing cars since I was 15. My uncle had a shop. He was a growly old Italian who started sweeping floors at a Ford dealership at age 13, in NJ, sometime in the 'teens'. By the time he was 16 he was a mechanic, working on Model T's. He figured it was OK to let a 12 kid start learning how to fix cars. I'd go over there after school and he taught me how to fix cars. Don't get the idea he was a kindly uncle who passed on his knowledge, he was an *** hole. No patience, no ability to temper it down for a 12-13 year old, but I was SO into cars I put up with it.

I still fix all my own cars, but sometimes I get to something I've done hundreds of times, and I have no idea what to do next. No idea how the damn thing works, or how it fits into the scheme of things. Then, a day, or a week later, I can go out to the shop and start right in on fixing or figuring out what ever it was I was stumped by.

I've been dealing with this since 2003, so I have more of a system. I just walk away after I finally realize I stuck. Sometimes, it does take me a while to figure out I'm stuck, so I buy 'extras' when I'm at the wrecking yard getting parts. LOL...

Thanks for the thought and the effort, I do appreciate it.

GeoD
 
Hello, GeoNOregon,

Assuming that Pete.S.'s helpful link correctly identifies your feeder, then:

Power supply to feeder -
The LN7 operates from 120VAC power source, supplied via #31 and #32.
So... if #31 and #32 are connected to 120VAC that would provide the necessary input power for feeder operation.
With #31 and #32 connected to 120VAC, when the trigger is pulled the feed motor will run.

Contactor triggering -
LN7 leads #4 and #2 are "trigger" leads used to activate (close) the connected welding power source's contactor, when the operator pulls the gun's finger trigger.
LN7 leads #4 and #2 do not supply any power to operate a contactor, their function can be considered as strictly an on/off switch.
The "switch" between #4 and #2 connects #4 and #2 together when the trigger is pulled to start welding, and disconnects #4 and #2 when the trigger is released.

Function of Leads #4 and #2 -
Leads #4 and #2 are not direct-acting with the gun's trigger-switch; the #4 and #2 close/open (on/off) function is through a powered relay.
Therefore, since the switching of #4 and #2 is relay actuated, the LN7 must have 120VAC input power at leads #31and #32 for trigger leads #4 and #2 to be able to switch, and thus control welder's contactor.

Contactor connection -
To go on further we would need to know something about the welding-power-source that the LN7 will be married with.
We know that for practical operation the yet-unknown DC welder needs to be of Constant Voltage type, and so, probably will be equipped with its own integral contactor.
We know that it will be leads #4 and #2 that signal the DC CV welding-power-source's contactor to close, however, at this time, with the welder's contactor circuit type unknown it wouldn't be possible to know more details about how the .#4 and #2 connections will be made.

Hope it helps, best luck
 
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