I am looking for some tool recommendations... specifically, i plan to start restoring my 96 bronco and i am looking for different tools to clean paint/rust off the truck. I've got an angle grinder i can put a wire wheel on, but i was also thinking of getting some kind of sand blaster. Does anyone have recommendations around them, good or bad? i would be using it outside since i dont have a shop.
amatoolbox
If you have a 3000-3500 psi pressure washer there are blaster kits for those that work pretty good from what I have read. The blasting media is contained and absorbed in the water so there is less dust in the air. Google pressure wahsher sand blasting.
I have a 100# pressure blaster from Eastwood. Its probably 20 years old now, and has seen a fair bit of use.
Trick with sandblasing on a complete car is masking it to keep sand out of places you don't want it. I can be done, but is difficult and time consuming. Once you figure that out, you really need to practice a lot before having at your sheet metal. Its very easy to overdo things and warp panels.
Blasting disassembled parts is easier, and the heavier the metal the better. Frames, suspension components, etc can take coarser sand and more pressure. You need to throttle way back for sheetmetal.
All of this assumes that you have a big air compressor. I have a 5hp cambell housefield with a 60 gallon tank. Its really not big enough to run things, but I have gottten away with it over the years by using smaller tips. It still runs continiously and will likely blow up one day. Give me an excuse for a better unit.
If you are only planning to do one vehicle, I doubt the investment in equipment is worth it. Better to find an expert and pay them their money.
Trick with sandblasing on a complete car is masking it to keep sand out of places you don't want it. I can be done, but is difficult and time consuming. Once you figure that out, you really need to practice a lot before having at your sheet metal. Its very easy to overdo things and warp panels.
Blasting disassembled parts is easier, and the heavier the metal the better. Frames, suspension components, etc can take coarser sand and more pressure. You need to throttle way back for sheetmetal.
All of this assumes that you have a big air compressor. I have a 5hp cambell housefield with a 60 gallon tank. Its really not big enough to run things, but I have gottten away with it over the years by using smaller tips. It still runs continiously and will likely blow up one day. Give me an excuse for a better unit.
If you are only planning to do one vehicle, I doubt the investment in equipment is worth it. Better to find an expert and pay them their money.
I just found this build while looking for a video I watched earlier about putting rust inhibitors in the wet media.
I like this guys make it extreme videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiJC9-G5C5E
I like this guys make it extreme videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiJC9-G5C5E
Here is the video I was looking for with rust inhibitor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nucYBS4B0bc&t=211s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nucYBS4B0bc&t=211s
A video I did on my own wet blaster. It's one bad tool.
https://youtu.be/l-kUiBDNAao
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
https://youtu.be/l-kUiBDNAao
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Nice Mike W.
This guy uses a 2500 psi blaster and you can see it suffers to properly remove rust and paint.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y91GRxp10Nk
This guy uses a 2500 psi blaster and you can see it suffers to properly remove rust and paint.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y91GRxp10Nk
I'd already have one of these if I had the psi. My Troybilt Honda drive washer is only 2600 psi 
IMO you can't beat sandblasting for weld prep in certain situations. Inside corners get cleaned out with sand like no other process and fast. With sheetmetal it will take all the paint, rust, scale, dirt, slag, etc. but leave all of the solid metal, very important with thinner sections where you will need all the thickness you can save. Doesn't load up with paint like a grinding disc. The profile (surface texture) will be consistent, a plus for high end paint prep. The only time it didn't do all I needed to do was a piece I intended to MIG was covered in everything but poo, uncovered a brazed section that had to be ground out.
I agree with with almost everything Zimm had to offer.
I don't have favorable results on rust with wire wheels, they tend to leave some of it and just polish it.
I have a little touchup rig (80# pot with 5HP/60 gallon compressor/tank) for small welds, the big pot and 185 cfm for large projects and paint prep on trailers, dump bodies, etc.
Cons: As others have said, you need air- 5 HP is minimum, 7+ preferred. Loud and dusty, sure way to piss off the neighbors if they are close. Larger than the 100# pots and 12-15 CFM, the cost jumps in a big way.
I agree with with almost everything Zimm had to offer.
I don't have favorable results on rust with wire wheels, they tend to leave some of it and just polish it.
I have a little touchup rig (80# pot with 5HP/60 gallon compressor/tank) for small welds, the big pot and 185 cfm for large projects and paint prep on trailers, dump bodies, etc.
Cons: As others have said, you need air- 5 HP is minimum, 7+ preferred. Loud and dusty, sure way to piss off the neighbors if they are close. Larger than the 100# pots and 12-15 CFM, the cost jumps in a big way.
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