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Without knowing your torch, I might guess that some preheat mix is getting into the oxygen passage of the tip, and when it nears the flame end, is burning back inside. When the O2 lever is on, that can't happen or maybe some O2 goes into the preheat flame even. Likely a bad seat problem?
To check something like this, you might be able to use a temporary gasket cut from thin (cereal box) cardboard or old toothpaste tubes (the thin lead types) at the seat, to fill the imperfections and give a good seal. If that stops the problem, you know the cause.
Posted by FarmerSamm
Little note on aftermarket tips.

I've never had good luck with them on my Harris. Have to torque them down to seat them. I figure it's not doing the seat in the torch any good.

Case in point......Had to buy a Weldmark tip, because the LWS refuses to stock Harris tips anymore. Wouldn't seat properly, and had to really tighten it down. Now my Harris tips don't seem to be seating properly. I'm thinking I distorted the seat on the torch by having to tighten the aftermarket tip too much. I'm not very happy about it.
Samm,
A couple years ago I found an 'aftermarket' cutting tip for sale! I had to pay $15 for it, but it also came with two regulators, the torch handle (w/ anti-reverse flow valves), the #73 cutting attachment, and the hoses. It was all Harris brand and unused; was only 'aftermarket' 'cause it was in a thrift shop!
 
With acetylene pressure set (at the regulator) at 6# and oxygen at 25#, I put the cutting-torch head, unlit, down into a tub of water. I opened the two valves at the heal of the torch handle, and of course bubbles came out of the pre-heat holes of the cutting tip. So then I put my thumb over the end of the tip, and was able to suppress all bubbles that way -- nothing came out around the seat of the tip. To me, the seal of the tip in the seat seemed good.

So now I'm thinking it's a problem of the precise settings of the torch handle valves. I was thinking the rhythmic snapping sound was due to too low on the gasses pressure (when adjusting for the neutral flame), because that's usually when popping problems occur with welding tips. (As you all know, with the flame too close to the metal and the gas pressures - at the torch valves - set too low.) Of course, with the cutting tip and lots of A & O pressure for the pre-heat, I was sometimes having the problem of the flame blowing out. :dizzy:
 
Help for Joel_BC

I see this problem a hundred times a year on the equipment I repair, especially Harris. If the "snapping" is constiant every few seconds and stops when you press the oxygen lever, the center seat is not seating. Harris has two flat seats on their tips. The outter one will many times seat properly, but the cutting oxygen one, the inner one will not. Oldiron2 is right. The preheat oxy/fuel mixture is leaking by the inner ring and igniting when it reaches the flame, causing to pop. The only way to properly fix the problem is have the torch head reseated.
 
Ditto on the air leak. I bought a new Airco setup with 2 stage regulators a few years ago. Each welding tip came with it's own nut to attach to the mixing chamber. Thought that was odd, until I used them. It also appeared each tip was "sealed" with teflon tape, or something white. Concoa makes Airco torches.

The first job I did was a small patch on a mower deck. Since I like to O/A weld (was before I had my MIG) I went at it. During the first bead, the torch popped and blew holes in the mower deck. Went back to my old Dockson and filled in the hole and completed the weld. I was pi$$ed. Called Airco, was directed to Concoa. Talked to them and they apologized and sent me all new tips, that don't leak.

Make sure ALL connections are tight. From the cylinder, down to the tip. Should solve the problem.

An afterthought, check the "O" ring/s carefully where the cutting attachment or welding nut connect to the mixing chamber. If they are not in good shape, or of the wrong size, you're gonna get the "air leak".
paweldor, to follow up, how did the tips we sent you work?
 
Maybe I am just a chickenchit, but anytime I take my torch handle, regulator, hoses etc off and replace something, I always do the soap and water test to make sure nothing is leaking before I light it. A big oxygen or acetylene leak can cause you to mess your pants (or worse) when your leak testing consists of lighting the torch to see if it pops.
 
Well i have a brand new torch bought it from amazon it is an Arksen it says it is compatible with Victor however when i use the welding head it works fine but when i try the cutting head it pops when turning it off i realized that when lighting the torch the flame has oxygen in it as it had no sutt and was rather feathery and hissing but the cutting head knob is off and it still allows some oxygen to pass through. Im afraid that i might have a faulty cutting head knob. Any opinions in this and how to repair it.
 
you would be better off starting a new thread than resurrecting an 9 year old thread that doesn't even apply to victor style torches. Also if it is brand new, send it back to amazon, don't try to get it fixed. Amazon should make it right for you.
 
For that size cutting tip, you should be using 5-6 psi for acetylene and 30-35 psi for oxygen. There's no reason to have your acetelyne higher than that.
 
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