While welding at a work bench, I had a piece of steel fall off and cut the wires to my pedal right in half. If I just splice the wires back together, will that affect the operation of the pedal? I did strip the wires and twist and tape them back together just to finish what I was working on but my weld quality has seemed to go down since then. Not sure if the pedal being patched back together is an issue or if its just a lack of hood time and its me. Just wanted to get some thoughts.
Tig pedal question
notslowonN2O
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While welding at a work bench, I had a piece of steel fall off and cut the wires to my pedal right in half. If I just splice the wires back together, will that affect the operation of the pedal? I did strip the wires and twist and tape them back together just to finish what I was working on but my weld quality has seemed to go down since then. Not sure if the pedal being patched back together is an issue or if its just a lack of hood time and its me. Just wanted to get some thoughts.
If you don't want to solder and heat shrink a repair you just about have to use wire nuts to make the connection secure enough to guarantee it will work. Currents transmitted in those wires are pretty small and any dirt or corrosion on the wires could easily interfere with proper transmission of the signals.
If you cut the wire close to the peddle. Open the peddle and splice the wires inside. Small butt splices work best.
This way the splice is protected from movement and further damage. If splices are made right welder should work normal.
Depending on the TIG welder. cutting through the cord and causing a short circuit can damage the welder.
Most of the time the remote foot control will not work at all. but Panel control still work fine.
All depends on what may have been damaged by the short.
This way the splice is protected from movement and further damage. If splices are made right welder should work normal.
Depending on the TIG welder. cutting through the cord and causing a short circuit can damage the welder.
Most of the time the remote foot control will not work at all. but Panel control still work fine.
All depends on what may have been damaged by the short.
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Pzzzt...wrong answer. :nono:
This is not the place for a wire nut. If for some reason someone doesn't want to do a proper solder/splice with heat shrink, there are butt splice crimp connectors like these:
There is really no shortcuts on this type of repair, you either have or buy a soldering iron or have or buy a crimper. Who needs to disconnect these wires, they're meant to be connected all the time. My $0.02...
I'm not advocating wirenuts as a fix--only that it's better than twisting raw leads together and taping them--which will most certainly pull apart the first time somebody trips over the cable. And, in my humble opinion base on lots of years of electrical work, there are two kinds of crimped butt connectors--those that have failed and those that are gonna fail. The correct fix is (a) strip, clean, solder, heatshrink with adhesive tubing (b) cut out the damaged piece and re-attach at either end (plug or pedal) or (c) replace the cable.
Nice BS back peddle....
The correct (and obvious) answer is solder and shrink tube. (Preferably glue filled shrink tube)
Fuggin wire nuts !!!!
LMFAO...
Do yourself a favor,
Remove that word from your vocabulary.
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Ford has a special tool and crimp couplings for making repairs to damaged wiring harnesses on vehicles. They also have a special tape for wrapping the wires up. Do you know any Ford techs? If not soldering is the best. I worked in a shop where an idiot they had hired as a foreman hard wired a 3 phase welder to the box instead of getting the proper plug and receptacle. The cord was also too short so he attached a 20' extension cord using wire nuts and electrical tape and ran it across the shop floor. He thought it was perfectly fine having his splice laying in the middle of the shop floor. You can't fix stupid!
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John, tell us what you really think of wire nuts :laugh:.
When I was just a puppy years ago I worked in the trade. Old old houses wired before BX, plastic jacket cable and wire nuts were invented were wired with rubber/fabric covered wires run in porcelain fixtures, no ground! I came across many original splices, usually 14G wire that were stripped and twisted tight about 1-1/2" to 2", then soldered, wrapped in sticky rubber tape followed by the old cloth friction tape. Kind of overkill. There was no untwisting anything and the rubber-friction tape was fossilized anyway.
Old timer I worked for told me they used to solder the wires with a mouth blown alcohol torch!!
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The repair in question isn't inside an electrical box.
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Hey don't make fun of wire nuts, they're keeping things together
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They have a purpose and a place, generally inside electrical boxes. Out in the open they aren't recommended.
If you go to Home Depots plumbing department, where the Well stuff is, you can find Splice Kit for submerged well pumps. These kits contain 4-crimp sleeves, 4 pieces of Thick heat shrink (glue lined), and 1-heat shrink (this one Very Thick and also glue lined) to go over the 4 connectors. This is all really heavy duty stuff and a great source of rugged splice you'd never have to worry about...
Ha. HD. Walk in there and ask where this repair kit is and then they ask you. What pump is this for. You say, for my TIG pedal as their eyes roll back in their head.
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