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Miller 141 or Hobart 190

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4.2K views 8 replies 9 participants last post by  Dave66  
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#1 ·
Hi All!
Want to learn welding for car frame.
I think 1/8 to max 3/16 steel is what would be work material, Millermatic seems more easy to learn.
What can Miller 141 actually weld single pass without bevelling edges or multiple pass, using gas or flux core?
I like the 141 but might be too weak for 3/16?
Utube shows dude gas welding 3/16 single pass, using Miller 141. Can this be true?
Please tell me your experience on these models.
Thanks,
Eric
 
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#2 ·
It's certainly doable but less than ideal . If I had that 140 amp welder to do that weld on 3/16" I would leave a 1/16" inch or so gap and grind about 1/2 the thickness to a bevel. As long as your getting some reinforcement on the back side your good. A 180-200 amp mig with .030 wire would be better for automotive frame work and .023 wire for panel work.
 
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#3 ·
The 110 volt machines need a dedicated circuit. A 30 amp is best, especially if you plan on running near amp capacity.
Operating at maximum amps cuts down on duty cycle.
Buy a 220 volt machine with more amps and you'll be happier.
You only want to buy once so choose wisely.
If you're set on getting a 110 volt machine, buy used. They are lots for sale by me on Craigslist and facebook marketplace.
Most sell because they don't have enough amps OR bought to play welder and didn't work out.


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#7 ·
The Hobart 190 is not difficult to learn on. If you find it difficult, perhaps you should hire out the welding for car frames. Definitely go Hobart Handler 190 over the millermatic 141, or for the same money as the Millermatic 141, you might even consider a Hobart Handler 210 MVP.
 
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#9 ·
Take a look at the Hobart 210 MVP. Dual voltage, similar cost the the Miller 141, and far better duty cycle that the Miller.

Yes, it costs more than the Hobart 190, but offers you the flexibility to run it on 120 or 240. (I have the Miller 211, transformer version - very similar to the Hobart 210). I recently had to do some work to help a neighbor, and the only option was to use a 120V, 20A circuit. Tripped the breaker twice, but glad I had the flexibility to use 120.

Your mileage may vary, but if you are looking to really weld close to the max of 3/16", then you must realize you will be limited to a very low duty cycle on the 141. 10% duty cycle at 140A. Which means for every minute of welding, you're waiting 9 minutes.

If you won't be pushing the machine that hard (i.e., doing autobody or other thin materials), you may find it enough. But given your stated objective, you should really go for the bigger machine (190 or 210); I only bring up the 210 because it allows you to use 120V if that is all you have available.
 
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