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Help Design a winch mount for a dump trailer

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Reebz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok a friend of mine does dead stock removal (removes dead farm animals and he makes $$$) His main truck went down and he was using his old truck. So he wants a back up in case it breaks. He has asked me to make a mount and for a winch.
Pictures 1-2 are as the trailer sites. Pictures 3,4 are what I would add.
The steel I would use would be 2x2 1/4 wall. The winch would be bolted to 5/8 plate at the top. Picture 3 shows the up rights would be welded to the trailer frame in the center. I probably will scab on a second 2x2 so it can be welded to the base better.
Picture 3 shows the inside with 2x2 welded for end to end. I would weld a plate to the sides of the bed and pit a gusset in.
I fear the forces will want to pull in over.
I'm debating adding a piece to tongue that can disconnect with a pin, View attachment 1.jpg thus making a triangle
 

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#4 ·
How big is the winch?

Dave

Reebz said:
Ok a friend of mine does dead stock removal (removes dead farm animals and he makes $$$) His main truck went down and he was using his old truck. So he wants a back up in case it breaks. He has asked me to make a mount and for a winch.
Pictures 1-2 are as the trailer sites. Pictures 3,4 are what I would add.
The steel I would use would be 2x2 1/4 wall. The winch would be bolted to 5/8 plate at the top. Picture 3 shows the up rights would be welded to the trailer frame in the center. I probably will scab on a second 2x2 so it can be welded to the base better.
Picture 3 shows the inside with 2x2 welded for end to end. I would weld a plate to the sides of the bed and pit a gusset in.
I fear the forces will want to pull in over.
I'm debating adding a piece to tongue that can disconnect with a pin, View attachment 1738818 thus making a triangle
Click to expand...
 
#5 ·
Are we to assume the winch is electric and he could use cables w/ QD couplings to hook them to the truck's electrical system? Then, could the winch have a remote control cable so he could stand off to the side where he could see the animal well?
If so, I'd consider mounting the winch on the front frame, mounting a pulley on top the front wall, and reinforcing the wall to accommodate the (mainly) downward force. Let the rearward force be against the framework that was designed for it. The winch could even be removable, if secure storage for the trailer weren't always available. I'd also make a keeper of some kind to prevent the cable from jumping out of the pulley groove during use.

Does he have the necessary clearance to get into the Capitol? I understand there are a few corpses there.
 
#6 ·
How about mounting the winch at the bottom outside of the dump box and mount a rigid 4" or 6" snatch block on the top. You rig up a chain with a chain hook at the top along with a chain binder to take the pull of the winch. Then put jumper cable connectors or welder lead connectors with them connected so you maintain polarity between pump batt and the winch then disconnect them and the chain to dump. Just be sure you have a deep cycle batt so it can do both jobs as needed tho I'm sure there will be a time period between loading the animal and dumping it so the vehicle charge wire should maintain enough charge.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
I would weld it to the actual frame like I did with this box. That front of the dump box is not that strong and may bend/bow. Anchor the crap outa it to the frame…and the wiring will be simpler too. That cross member is to rest the front bucket of my tractor. I wanted it anchored directly to the frame so that if there was ever a problem with the moving dump part of the trailer (like for some reason it started to go up!) or if the D ring tie downs failed that the load would be secure still.
View attachment 43CF1DA7-FEA5-4AF9-98A4-7E8125F04430.jpg
 
#9 ·
mla2ofus said:
How about mounting the winch at the bottom outside of the dump box and mount a rigid 4" or 6" snatch block on the top.
Click to expand...
This is how I would do it. :)
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
mla2ofus said:
How about mounting the winch at the bottom outside of the dump box and mount a rigid 4" or 6" snatch block on the top. You rig up a chain with a chain hook at the top along with a chain binder to take the pull of the winch. Then put jumper cable connectors or welder lead connectors with them connected so you maintain polarity between pump batt and the winch then disconnect them and the chain to dump. Just be sure you have a deep cycle batt so it can do both jobs as needed tho I'm sure there will be a time period between loading the animal and dumping it so the vehicle charge wire should maintain enough charge.
Click to expand...
I too like this idea.
That was one of my original idea but got side tracked. I will have to find ridged snatch blocks. I like how the forces will be distributed. Do you think my original 2 drawings will work for the snatch blocks or build a full frame as was suggested?
 
#12 ·
I like using channel it is easy to mount the winch.
The channel needs to be size to winch.

Dave

Reebz said:
Ok a friend of mine does dead stock removal (removes dead farm animals and he makes $$$) His main truck went down and he was using his old truck. So he wants a back up in case it breaks. He has asked me to make a mount and for a winch.
Pictures 1-2 are as the trailer sites. Pictures 3,4 are what I would add.
The steel I would use would be 2x2 1/4 wall. The winch would be bolted to 5/8 plate at the top. Picture 3 shows the up rights would be welded to the trailer frame in the center. I probably will scab on a second 2x2 so it can be welded to the base better.
Picture 3 shows the inside with 2x2 welded for end to end. I would weld a plate to the sides of the bed and pit a gusset in.
I fear the forces will want to pull in over.
I'm debating adding a piece to tongue that can disconnect with a pin, View attachment 1738818 thus making a triangle
Click to expand...
 
#13 ·
I think I'd just weld a full width piece of rectangular tubing to the top of the box at the front, and mount it there. If it's mounted to the box, it's in a good position to use even if the box is tilted up. Your fairlead on the winch would handle a carcass that's not lined up with the winch.

I'm surprised that it's a good business. We just take a dead one out across the creek, and let the coyotes dispose of the animal. BTW.......I think it's a wive's tale that coyotes take calves. We've never lost a calf to any coyotes. Only losses we suffer is when one gets its neck broken at the hay feeder when adult cows butt it, or shove against it. Sometimes a cow will trap a calf in a corner in the feed pen, and try to hurt it. Cows ain't very nice animals. They also have a very definite pecking order.
 
#16 ·
Alaska Weldshop RIP, installed the winch on one corner of the box, installed an anchor on the other. He then used a snatch block. Double line pull gives more pull to the winch & (surprisingly) not half speed. Winch motor runs faster under less load.

This arrangement needs a swivel mount, as angle changes as it pulls. Consider chaining the winch. Put it inside a dry, locked tool box when not in use.
 
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#19 ·
A piece of 3x5 11ga rectangular tubing welded flush with the top of the box, and inside the box, will hold the weight. The sidewall of the box forms a very strong web to resist a pulling load from front of trailer to back of trailer. A cow can weigh around 1200#. It's a dead load, not rolling load.........so it's a bit more than 1200#

Let's call the load 1800#. A 6' 11ga 3x5, center point loaded beam, will take the load with a stress load of 12Ksi.......which is 1/3 the yield strength of the tubing. If you have the appropriate software, plug the numbers in.
 
#20 · (Edited)
You gotta remember.............the sides of that trailer are some really bigazz beams. They will resist a lot of force in either axis.

If 11ga makes you feel a bit queazy, you can up it to 3/16

You can even scab the sidewall around where the beam welds on to spread the force over a larger area
 
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