WeldingWeb - Welding Community for pros and enthusiasts banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Help Design a winch mount for a dump trailer

Jump to Latest
41 - 60 of 76 Posts
#41 ·
Everything in this world can be distilled down to 3 things. Beams, columns, and levers. That's it boys(shrug)

I just put up some drawings which show mounting a beam inside the trailer. Cheap, easy, fast.

Here's another approach where the beam is mounted outside the trailer. Same thing, just outside.

https://youtu.be/rlN3A4koFyY That triangular bit of sheet metal hanging over the front of the trailer is simply a beam(it's considered a built up beam). The columns, if you will, are the long sides of the trailer. It's the sides of the trailer that resist the force, not the sheet metal front panel of the dump body itself.

This stuff ain't rocket science.
 
#42 ·
I think sweet's idea is best. I just can't figure some designs with the A frame attached to the tongue and the winch on the box which means you'd have to feed out cable at the same time the box is raising. If I'm interpreting old iron's design right you can't raise the box. Wouldn't the vertical post have to be mounted on the crossmember in order to raise the box? You could mounI something like truckers use to control air hoses and light cable to control the excess power cable for the winch while raising the box. can't believe some winch co. hasn't designed a fairlead with one roller under adjustable spring tension to keep the cable from snarling up on the drum when theres no tension on the cable.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#43 ·
mla2ofus said:
I think sweet's idea is best. I just can't figure some designs with the A frame attached to the tongue and the winch on the box which means you'd have to feed out cable at the same time the box is raising. If I'm interpreting old iron's design right you can't raise the box. Wouldn't the vertical post have to be mounted on the crossmember in order to raise the box? You could mounI something like truckers use to control air hoses and light cable to control the excess power cable for the winch while raising the box. can't believe some winch co. hasn't designed a fairlead with one roller under adjustable spring tension to keep the cable from snarling up on the drum when theres no tension on the cable.
Click to expand...
I just figured he'd put the winch in free spool when lifting.

The product that keeps the cable from snarling without weight is called a winch wire rope tensioner.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#44 · (Edited)
I don't understand the comments one above (Post 42) or sweets ones about raising the bed.
Regarding having the winch inside the bed or running the cable through the lower front wall, that would allow only retrieving one animal per trip, since the first would block further recoveries. Having the cable coming down from the top of the front wall allows it to go over the first animal when recovering another.

I agree with Willie's cable guide comment; see Post 5 again.

There are multiple ways of dealing with the small details such as material sizing; in my work, it often depends on what's at hand or can quickly be scrounged. I leave those details to the OP, unless he specifically asks.



.
 
#48 ·
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#51 ·
mla2ofus said:
I just can't figure some designs with the A frame attached to the tongue and the winch on the box which means you'd have to feed out cable at the same time the box is raising.
Click to expand...
I didn't realize we were talking about a tilt-bed trailer.

Even still, having to spool the cable out first thing is a good idea. That way, the cable is easy to access and you don't have to climb your way up a slope to get to the hook. Plus, I don't think there would be much tilting involved unless you only had one animal to pick up that day.... otherwise the first one would want to slide down the ramp you just pulled it up. Add in some mud and blood, maybe some rain, and that trailer would be a slick mess.

Better to simple grab the hook and spool out the cable as you walk backwards. Get the hook outside of the trailer to wherever your animals are. And if you need to raise or lower the bed, you can do it then.

It wouldn't be much work at all to have the bed tilt up even with the winch mounted to the tongue. The pulley on the bed would simply ride along under the cable you've already spooled out.

Now, since we're talking about spending someone else's time and money, might I suggest we go whole hog?

View attachment 03.jpg

Wouldn't be any trouble to build a genuine tower on the tongue of the trailer. Plus, think about the boost to his business when everyone sees what a professional he is?! Can't pass up quality advertising like that, imo.

Just gotta decide on what paint color to go with. I do like that red, white, and blue.....
 
#52 ·
Great looking truck.
It is time proving too.

Dave

VaughnT said:
I didn't realize we were talking about a tilt-bed trailer.

Even still, having to spool the cable out first thing is a good idea. That way, the cable is easy to access and you don't have to climb your way up a slope to get to the hook. Plus, I don't think there would be much tilting involved unless you only had one animal to pick up that day.... otherwise the first one would want to slide down the ramp you just pulled it up. Add in some mud and blood, maybe some rain, and that trailer would be a slick mess.

Better to simple grab the hook and spool out the cable as you walk backwards. Get the hook outside of the trailer to wherever your animals are. And if you need to raise or lower the bed, you can do it then.

It wouldn't be much work at all to have the bed tilt up even with the winch mounted to the tongue. The pulley on the bed would simply ride along under the cable you've already spooled out.

Now, since we're talking about spending someone else's time and money, might I suggest we go whole hog?

View attachment 1738892

Wouldn't be any trouble to build a genuine tower on the tongue of the trailer. Plus, think about the boost to his business when everyone sees what a professional he is?! Can't pass up quality advertising like that, imo.

Just gotta decide on what paint color to go with. I do like that red, white, and blue.....
Click to expand...
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Oldiron2 said:
I would think the frame would need to resist both downward and front-back forces so the pulley would mount on top of something like this, with red symbolizing the upward (which could instead be the Cross bracing you already planned, modified to go higher) and blue showing the fore-back bracing.

View attachment 1738869
Click to expand...
Before I started this thread I wanted the A frame as you have it. My wife said you can not use the dump function, I then thought of using a hitch pin to release the A frame so It can dump. I have not mentioned that to the owner. So its possible.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
farmersammm said:
View attachment 1738878 You don't need steel all over the place. Just mount the tubing inside the bed. Weld the plate to the sheet metal, then weld the tubing to the plate. 3/16 plate ought to do.

The sheet metal is plenty strong in the orientation you're looking at. All of the strength comes from the sides, not the front of the box. It will resist torque if plated to spread the load over a larger surface.................and the tubing,, in turn, resists torque.

Why resistance to torque? A winch isn't always pulling straight............it pulls up, and from side to side. Tubing resists force on all axis.

Put all those pulleys on, and you have problems if it isn't a straight line pull. And, if the bed is up..........now you're running a ton of line, plus your tongue mounted winch is now trying to pull off the tongue upwards.

Keep everything in the bed, and you're golden. If the dood uses the trailer for trash, an such.......make the mount so the winch comes off easy.....your receiver tube.
Click to expand...
He does not want the winch in the bed. That would be easy for me but he hauls gravel and such
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
farmersammm said:
BTW...........a 2x2x.250 piece of tubing is less strong than a 3x5x11ga piece of tubing. Structural elements are all about dimensions, not necessarily wall thickness. .250 tubing is 5.9lbs/ft.............3x5x11ga is 6.2lbs/ft

Fabricating is all about sizing your elements. You can always go heavier (3/16) which doesn't hurt..........11ga is your minimum. Steel costs money nowdays, it's not like it was 2yrs ago. You can work with less.
Click to expand...
I agree with you I happen to have 2x2 1/4 wall and with the price of steel I'm trying to save both of use money. I like rectangle steel for strength
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
MinnesotaDave said:
The more I think about what he is using it for, the more I'm convinced I'd want a gantry crane trailer set up.

Similar to how a septic tank hauling truck is made.

View attachment 1738890

View attachment 1738891
Click to expand...
That is how I thought they did it before I saw his actual truck. The winch is mounted high and is a massive winch, like what a wrecker uses. He has like really long cables because horses die in stall and he has to drag them out
 
Discussion starter · #57 · (Edited)
Oldiron2 said:
I would think the frame would need to resist both downward and front-back forces so the pulley would mount on top of something like this, with red symbolizing the upward (which could instead be the Cross bracing you already planned, modified to go higher) and blue showing the fore-back bracing.

View attachment 1738869
Click to expand...
This makes sense. I'm going to try and talk him into this. Its my original idea, triangles are just stronger. He may go for it.
 
#58 ·
Well.... I guess there is no point in discussing the 2 sticks of dynamite under the front frame rails that I was going to suggest...
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#59 ·
Reebz said:
This makes sense. I'm going to try and talk him into this. Its my original idea, triangles are just stronger. He may go for it.
Click to expand...
I didn't see any mention of the bed tilting earlier and agree with Vaughn about not using it for multiple animals. If he would then need a ramp, a sliding one could be mounted under the trailer and arranged so the close end could swivel up and lock to to the rear of the bed when in use
To facilitate the bed tilt, the A -frame's inner post could mount on the frame instead of the rear box wall and could also be used to help tilt/dump the trailer box when full of rocks, assuming it doesn't already have some unmentioned device to do so.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Oldiron2 said:
I would think the frame would need to resist both downward and front-back forces so the pulley would mount on top of something like this, with red symbolizing the upward (which could instead be the Cross bracing you already planned, modified to go higher) and blue showing the fore-back bracing.

View attachment 1738869
Click to expand...
I could use both of our ideas and Use a Ratchet Straps.
My A frame idea and the strap to counter balance and even the shearing force.
 
41 - 60 of 76 Posts
About this Discussion
75 Replies
22 Participants
Last post:
farmersammm
WeldingWeb - Welding Community for pros and enthusiasts
posts
1.8M
members
82K
Since
2003
Community Forum for Welding Professionals and Enthusiasts To Interact and Learn - Free
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Welding Projects & Pictures General Welding Questions MIG, TIG, Stick, And Oxy/Fuel Welding Machines - Tools and Cutting Methods Lincoln