WeldingWeb - Welding Community for pros and enthusiasts banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Need help setting up plug to receptacle on new welder

Jump to Latest
2.8K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  danielplace  
W
#1 ·
Hi all. So to start, this is my first decent welder in a long time, call it a start over. I took welding in college and did very well, but have done very little welding since with cheap 110 stick and mig welders.
I'm going to be doing a lot of welding soon on my project car so I purchased a new 220 welder, maybe not the best but got really great reviews from various sources. The welder is a LOTOS LTPDC2000D, combination TIG, Stick and plasma cutter, 110/220, 200A.
I should mention for power/plug reasons, I'm USA based.
The first problem I have before I even get a tank/argon/etc is getting power to it. It's set up with a 220 L6-30P plug which I have not seen before. Is this a new common type?
I have an un-used 30A 4 prong dryer plug right inside the door from my garage to laundry area so I want to use that, avoid permits and stuff to install one in the garage. I'll eventually buy a really nice welder extension cable.
So, baby steps, my first issue is making sure the plug on the welder itself is the most common so I can use it elsewhere down the line if I want. Is this the new norm (L6-30) or is what I think it is which is the 6-50P? (or something else perhaps)
I tried looking at pictures of other 220 welders online but not many show the plug and those that do make it difficult to see.

So, once I get a new plug on there if necessary, I'll worry about adapters or changing outlets.

Also, figured I would see how far I can get on the 30A breaker, hopefully it's enough for what I need but I figure if not I will see if the wire gauge behind the receptacle is large enough and just change to a larger breaker if it is. How far do you think I might get with the existing 30?

Thanks. Can't wait to start practicing!
 
O
#3 ·
B
#4 ·
Are you sure it is an L6-30 ?

the machine states that it is 110v/220v so I'm not sure how they are getting 110v if the power cord does not have a Neutral.

If it is in fact an L6-30 you can certainly utilize the dryer receptacle's wiring:

Turn off power.

Remove dyer receptacle.

Install L6-30 R : use the Black, Red and Green wires. Tape off the white wire.
 
O
#6 ·
Broccoli1 said:
Are you sure it is an L6-30 ?

the machine states that it is 110v/220v so I'm not sure how they are getting 110v if the power cord does not have a Neutral.

If it is in fact an L6-30 you can certainly utilize the dryer receptacle's wiring
Click to expand...
Some of the new machines sense the voltage and adjust for it; they can be plugged into either voltage. The do need the higher voltage to be able to put out higher amperage, of course. I don't know his machine (or most other new ones, for that matter).
 
B
#5 ·
I found the manual online. Although it is a Dual Voltage machine one has to wire a 110v OR a 220v circuit. It only uses 3-wires.

So Imma guess it does have an L6-30 already installed.

Specs: 45 A @ 220 V, 55 A @110 V

Duty cycle @ 40°C (104°F)
60% @ 200 A 100% @ 105 A
 
W
#7 ·
Thanks all.
It is definitely labeled a L6-30P. It has 3 wires, green/yellow (ground for 110 and 220), red/brown (hot for 110, positive for 220) and blue/black (neutral for 110, negative for 220). Got all the from the manual last night. ;)
What I was looking to do first is change that plug though, I want the most common on there so I can use it elsewhere, use easy to find extensions, etc. So, after some answers here and more reading, I ordered a 6-50P plug last night, sounds like that is the right one. Then I can worry about the receptacle end next.
So, if I put the 6-50p plug on there now, and get a good 6-50p extension cord, is it ok to just use an adapter at the receptacle end or am I better off changing the receptacle? Why? Thanks again!
 
O
#8 ·
wesblake said:
Thanks all.
It is definitely labeled a L6-30P. It has 3 wires, green/yellow (ground for 110 and 220), red/brown (hot for 110, positive for 220) and blue/black (neutral for 110, negative for 220). Got all the from the manual last night. ;)
What I was looking to do first is change that plug though, I want the most common on there so I can use it elsewhere, use easy to find extensions, etc. So, after some answers here and more reading, I ordered a 6-50P plug last night, sounds like that is the right one. Then I can worry about the receptacle end next.
So, if I put the 6-50p plug on there now, and get a good 6-50p extension cord, is it ok to just use an adapter at the receptacle end or am I better off changing the receptacle? Why? Thanks again!
Click to expand...
I'd guess the wall receptacle is a 14-30R, which has terminals for both 125 and 250V. If so, an adapter going to your specific need (here a 6-50) allows the receptacle to be used as was designed whereas changing the outlet restricts it to 230v use and leaves one wire unused.

I don't know how the 4-wire outlet is wired at the breakers. The same, but both neutral and ground to the outlet?
 
D
#11 · (Edited)
Plug and play,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174635796453?hash=item28a91ac7e5:g:xIQAAOSwVJBgJvto


Pull the dryer outlet and install this. If two gang plastic box/mudring get the larger two gang plate for it to cover hole for plastic box/mudring. If surface mounted metal box get industrial cover to adapt new outlet to the box.

Actually looks like these only mount to single gang as only has center screws so hopefully it is a single gang. Probably won't be but might. If two gang there is a fix. Proabaly have to put some device next to it to fill the plate.


https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-P...ndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 
Y
#16 ·
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
S
#19 ·
My neighbor showed up with a red dual 180 I havnt had a chance to be friends with yet. I see some adapter. Red or blue or white and yellow got the right thing for this, custom adapter. The Maxstar is straight, designed to plug in to cords. I didnt follow the thread word for word,, but no real reason a guy couldnt use a 30 recept if he used full size wire,,, cepting for 6-50 in a couple cases but absolutely no reason not to current limit those machines to 30 unless they come with legit factory adapter. Legit recept doesnt include dryer or range,,, not that we dont do it, doesnt bother me soi much in pipe at a main but,,,
 
C
#20 ·
To keep it very simple, multi voltage welders come in 3 basic type. Manual relink and auto relink and PFC/boost. Manual relink, you have to move a jumper on a terminal board or change a cord or plug on the end of the cord. Auto relink uses relays to select the voltage. PFC/boost is all electronic can make a buss voltage of 100 to 940 vdc depending on the welder.
The lincoln 180 duel is a manual relink. There are jumpers hidden inside the welder end plug of the line cord. That is why it has many pins. Miller uses a cord with 4 pins and when you install their special plug it connects to the right wires for each voltage. Miller XMT 304 is a relink machine. e XMT 350 is a pfc/boost machine. All the new dynasty unit are PFC/boost units.
Some pfc/boost units come with twist lock plug on the line cord. plus they come with 115 and 230 volt adapters. Three phase industrial welders just come with bare cords.
single phase welders under 300 amps should come with a plug for the standard 50 amp welder plug with a round ground. Unless it was not built for the USA market.
 
S
#21 ·
Machines above 50A input dont come plug. I believe the adapter in the Miller?Hobart not only connects it to the right wire but is a device to provide fault protection for use on 50A circuits. It acts essentially as a 30 breaker as the machine doesnt come with heavy enough cord for 50A fault. The single voltage units like 187 or 190 come 12 cord same as used on the stickmates.
 
S
#22 ·
I see something in one of the about 13 ga wire, they obviously not from around these parts. Seems some of those machines leave it up to the installer to extrapalate the proper parts??? On our machines its worth a looksee to note out they aint no plugs above 50 and they use pitchurs and all to point out the wiring method and disconnect required. If I was wiring up one of those commie units would certainly consider limiting it to 30 breaker if it wasnt specifically listed otherwise.
 
D
#23 ·
Sberry said:
Machines above 50A input dont come plug. I believe the adapter in the Miller?Hobart not only connects it to the right wire but is a device to provide fault protection for use on 50A circuits. It acts essentially as a 30 breaker as the machine doesnt come with heavy enough cord for 50A fault. The single voltage units like 187 or 190 come 12 cord same as used on the stickmates.
Click to expand...
16 gauge SJO cord with a dead short in the short length a welders uses will trip a 50 amp breaker no problem whether it be to ground or really quick phase to phase. LOL !!!
 
WeldingWeb - Welding Community for pros and enthusiasts
posts
1.8M
members
82K
Since
2003
Community Forum for Welding Professionals and Enthusiasts To Interact and Learn - Free
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Welding Projects & Pictures General Welding Questions MIG, TIG, Stick, And Oxy/Fuel Welding Machines - Tools and Cutting Methods Lincoln