what is the best welding helmet for tig? im in the USA, i like the miller infinitys field of view but the lens isent super clear, is the miller digital elite clearlight 2.0 good? anything better? anyone have any recommendations? no optrel products though please.
Best welding helmet for tig?
Wolf_Welder
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what is the best welding helmet for tig? im in the USA, i like the miller infinitys field of view but the lens isent super clear, is the miller digital elite clearlight 2.0 good? anything better? anyone have any recommendations? no optrel products though please.
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Optrel products are what I recommend lol
Why are they not an option?
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Why are they not an option?
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I've got a Viking 2450 that is super clear, big fan. When you have it dialed in you can barley tell it's on. I think Optrel are the ones that make the auto adjusting hoods that adjust the darkness based on arc.
Most people will recommend the 3350 because of the larger window, but it's not been a problem for me.
Most people will recommend the 3350 because of the larger window, but it's not been a problem for me.
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i really like my Lincoln 2450
after reading all the threads on hoods lately i just discovered my optrel was auto adjusting yesterday.
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I tried a lot of different hoods over the years. Mostly trying on other peoples hoods, and maybe 8-10 I have bought. Until Father's day I would have said the Lincoln Viking 3350 4C model was the best clarity I have ever seen in a hood other than a fixed shade hood with glass (not plastic) lenses. That all changed on Father's day when I got an Optrel Crystal 2.0. It is noticeably clearer than the Lincoln 3350.
If you are TIG welding with a foot pedal or torch switch, then you might consider a fixed shade hood. They are much clearer than an auto darkening hood. I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-Safe...ade+welding+helmet&qid=1659539534&sprefix=jackson+fixed+shade+wel,aps,76&sr=8-1
It has an amazingly large viewing area and good headgear. I have yet to find an AD hood that is quite as clear as a passive with a good gold lens in it.
If you are TIG welding with a foot pedal or torch switch, then you might consider a fixed shade hood. They are much clearer than an auto darkening hood. I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-Safe...ade+welding+helmet&qid=1659539534&sprefix=jackson+fixed+shade+wel,aps,76&sr=8-1
It has an amazingly large viewing area and good headgear. I have yet to find an AD hood that is quite as clear as a passive with a good gold lens in it.
The best answer is, Of course,,, that there Rarely is no best anything...
There are Many great helmets available and all you're gonna get is people who are happy with their choice (mine's Optrel
) but it's certainly not the only choice as you can see here. My advice is that, usually, the more expensive stuff will be "better" (Clearer, better Color transmission) so, buy what you can afford! I don't think there's a more appropriate reason to buy an expensive helmet then there is for Tig, its requirements for a clear picture of what's going-on with your puddle makes it more beneficial than other methods (since you Mig at 3X the speed and Stick has all that smoke & flux)
There are Many great helmets available and all you're gonna get is people who are happy with their choice (mine's Optrel
) but it's certainly not the only choice as you can see here. My advice is that, usually, the more expensive stuff will be "better" (Clearer, better Color transmission) so, buy what you can afford! I don't think there's a more appropriate reason to buy an expensive helmet then there is for Tig, its requirements for a clear picture of what's going-on with your puddle makes it more beneficial than other methods (since you Mig at 3X the speed and Stick has all that smoke & flux) I've read this thread as well as previous ones on the topic. I'm in the market for an auto-darkening helmet for TIG with headgear that fits well and doesn't easily break, has sufficient sensors to darken even when the arc is obscured from a portion of the shield, whose electronics won't fail, and whose batteries will last a reasonable time. The problem is, when I read the negative reviews on Amazon of the various recommendations, all fail. By 'negative' reviews, I don't mean ones where the item came in a damaged box, had incorrect graphics, etc., but ones that explicitly mention the headgear breaks, it doesn't darken, the electronics fail, and/or it eats batteries.
I only will use it for TIG with a 200 A machine and, were it not for troublesome reviews of the Lincoln and Optrel hoods mentioned in this thread, all seem to have all the features I'm looking for (except, possibly, the number and location of sensors for partially-shielded arcs, for which more information is needed). I'd like to keep it under $500 if possible, but could go higher if necessary.
I only will use it for TIG with a 200 A machine and, were it not for troublesome reviews of the Lincoln and Optrel hoods mentioned in this thread, all seem to have all the features I'm looking for (except, possibly, the number and location of sensors for partially-shielded arcs, for which more information is needed). I'd like to keep it under $500 if possible, but could go higher if necessary.
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I don't like the Lincoln 3350, I feel like it's too heavy, I stopped using it for that reason, I have enough neck pain from wearing a welding helmet as it is
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The specs show it weighs 20 oz, while my present one weighs 19 oz and doesn't feel too heavy to me, so I don't think weight rules out the 3350. At least one Optrel with Autopilot shows 18.7 oz. so they all seem to be the same weight to within an oz.
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Wait a minute, you actually expect people to read the paragraph by the OP?
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You are never going to have a zero percent chance of not having your sensors blocked in a tight spot.
If welding in tight spots regularly you will want one of those all leather fixed shade hoods.
The 2450 has four I think. I had them all blocked one time. Only a small part of my head was sticking around the corner, and my arm was reaching up over my head blocking the top two sensor.
If welding in tight spots regularly you will want one of those all leather fixed shade hoods.
The 2450 has four I think. I had them all blocked one time. Only a small part of my head was sticking around the corner, and my arm was reaching up over my head blocking the top two sensor.
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I understand the desire for an AD helmet with stick, because there is no way I could strike an arc with a passive helmet and SMAW. I am just not that coordinated. But with MIG and TIG, where you essentially have a trigger (or pedal), why bother with AD if you are worried about getting flashed, replacing batteries, etc.? I guess I could see it for scratch start TIG, or maybe even lift arc TIG, but otherwise, the passive helmet seems like maybe a better choice, especially if you need the maximum clarity.
I get neck cramps with AD hoods. So I just stick with my Huntsman 711p hoods with Phillips safety #10-11 gold filter and cheaters. I just think about the nod and down they come. I have a bunch of 411p hoods waiting in the wings to be trimmed down to 711p. I may even trim more and make a 911p. Film at 11.
Don't forget that I was imprisoned in a stick arc booth for a year in college. There weren't no such thing as automatic darkening hoodlums back in the 70s.
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I'm the other way around.
Normally run a fixed shade hood with stick welding. If you are off by a couple mm when you start your arc it doesn't matter, just jab in there and get going.
Any tig I do is light ga stuff, and you gotta have that stinger just so when you get the juice flowing or it'll be a pita.
For Mig I could go either way, lighter gage stuff is AD. Heavier stuff with a lot of continuous welding, fixed is fine.
Normally run a fixed shade hood with stick welding. If you are off by a couple mm when you start your arc it doesn't matter, just jab in there and get going.
Any tig I do is light ga stuff, and you gotta have that stinger just so when you get the juice flowing or it'll be a pita.
For Mig I could go either way, lighter gage stuff is AD. Heavier stuff with a lot of continuous welding, fixed is fine.
If I could position the TIG electrode 2 mm from the spot where I needed to start welding, then flip the hood down without ever moving my hand by even a mm, or I never needed to pause for a moment part way through a weld to see what things looked like without the arc obscuring things, maybe I wouldn't need auto-darkening.
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Do not use this type
It will fit a welding lens but you will burn your face.
View attachment Screenshot_20220803-170505_Amazon Shopping.jpg
Dave
It will fit a welding lens but you will burn your face.
View attachment Screenshot_20220803-170505_Amazon Shopping.jpg
Dave
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