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I don't care about freight costs. Freight always costs more then the item on little stuff.
Prices in Cdn. $.... I'm sure you should be able to find the same products closer to home though...

https://canadaweldingsupply.ca/search?q=welding+lenses

I did contact Philips directly once, and they were willing to export to Canada with a small order.... I think that was 2015 though...

I think your dollar is worth about .86 Cdn and .65 US so the exchange might make a difference which way you go...
 
hey oscar about 5yr ago i bought a e684. as odd as it sounds, for the first 3-3.5yrs i never once used it outside of the garage. when i finally did use it outside i noticed the sun would immediatly trigger the lens which made it near impossible to use outside. yes i turned the knobs every which way from sunday and replaced batteries. neither made any difference. this is what prompted me to get a miller then eventually move on to speedglas which is the only one i use now.
i called optrels tech guy to explain the situation and he said the helmet isnt defective but rather optrel just designed the sensors far to sensitive and suggested i partially cover the sensors with tape. are all the optrels users never working outside the garage or have they taped the sensors ? it seems hard to imagine a $350 helmet needing tape on the sensors if its going to be used outside lol
I have a e684 and remember using it outside several times. If its sunny out today I'll check it out.
 
Louie, your statement about the Optrel being the clearest, Its known for being the lightest (clearest) when not welding, is it the same when welding? I have the Optrel e684
and a Miller DE with the clearlight lens, I haven't tried the new Miller clearlight 2.0 but would like to...
To me it is the same when welding...great optical clarity. But it is appropriately dark for the shade level I set it to. I can see the weld puddle much more clearly in this helmet than in my Lincoln Viking 3350.
 
Surprised no one has mentioned Wens Lens, its fixed and its spectacular... Pro tip: if you normally use shade 10 go with shade 11.
 
I have a e684 and remember using it outside several times. If its sunny out today I'll check it out.


i thought for sure mine was defective and optrel could possibly fix it for a small fee (warranty was gone). i meen what company would make a helmet that couldnt be used outside. the optrel tech guy all but said : im sorry but optrel screwed up and didnt design the internal circuity correct so just put tape on the sensors and go on about your day.

ive wanted to put it on ebay for a while but i dont think i can in good conscience so it just sits collecting dust
 
i thought for sure mine was defective and optrel could possibly fix it for a small fee (warranty was gone). i meen what company would make a helmet that couldnt be used outside. the optrel tech guy all but said : im sorry but optrel screwed up and didnt design the internal circuity correct so just put tape on the sensors and go on about your day.

ive wanted to put it on ebay for a while but i dont think i can in good conscience so it just sits collecting dust
wtf
 
i thought for sure mine was defective and optrel could possibly fix it for a small fee (warranty was gone). i meen what company would make a helmet that couldnt be used outside. the optrel tech guy all but said : im sorry but optrel screwed up and didnt design the internal circuity correct so just put tape on the sensors and go on about your day.

ive wanted to put it on ebay for a while but i dont think i can in good conscience so it just sits collecting dust
apparently Optrel now has a retrofit kit to rectify the problem with that model.

Optrel p/n fu-2X $39.65

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Regarding the optrels. They really seem to be focusing on Tig Welding in their high end helmets. Could be why they are so sensitive. Except for having to flip my head, its hard to beat the optics of passive glass but I haven't used many auto darkens.
 
I've been having great luck with the True Arc Gold ADF lens.
https://truearcweld.com/products/truearc-gold
Its a drop-in replacement for a fixed lens, and the optics are as good as anything I've had from Lincoln. I'm in the same situation as you, older guy with bifocals, welding stick for a living... the true-arc lens is now my go-to in an old fiber-metal tiger hood. You really can see everything with it, and that setup weighs nothing. LOT cheaper than the big-name stuff. My previous hood was the Lincoln Viking and I would say this actually beats it for sheer clarity.
 
Regarding the optrels. They really seem to be focusing on Tig Welding in their high end helmets. Could be why they are so sensitive. Except for having to flip my head, its hard to beat the optics of passive glass but I haven't used many auto darkens.


ya they may be geared toward tig welding in a shop but you have to assume it might be used in any type of envirnment at any time. thats why i went to speedglas for my personal helmets. they just flat out work in any condition. the one i use at work is used 100% of the time outside in sun ,rain ,snow , wind and never does it faulter in any way. no funky behavior. no odd glitches. just perfect operation every time you put it on
 
Optrel was my first auto dark helmet i bought back in 1999

the "non replaceable" battery went on it and the only way to fix was to break the seal and resolder in a new one.

apparently there was a 50/50 chance of success due to the unit cracking.

i vowed never to buy another Optrel but have two today that were included in the price of new machines.

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the best i've used is a $100 Weldcote that i gave to my neighbor earlier this year. his princess auto unit wasn't working and he was doing weld repairs using the "squinting" method.
 
People are going to really call me crazy but if you are really serious about your optics when welding and clarity. Have a helmet 100% dedicated to tig welding.

Mig and Stick will ruin the clarity of a helmet unless you want to replace cover lenses every time you swap processes. Infact honestly a helmet for mig and stick doesn't need to be as good within reason as one does for tig.
 
I really like my weld cote that one of my bosses gave me last year I think. Has a blueish color to it and also used a Miller digital elite that I liked also. It had a goldish color I think. Had some issues with turning off when one of the sensors got covered so had to stop using it. Had a guy give me a speed glass on this forum also that was nice. I think it’s called a super light. Pretty small hood. Good for getting in tight spots. It had a greenish color to it if I remember right.
 
I found gold lens is very good.
Today I use a auto type.

Try a cape over hood to keep the light out.

Dave

My eyes are showing their age. Seeing the weld is harder than it used to be! What is the clearest welding lens available? Either auto darkening or fixed.
 
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