Titanium 125 Easy Flux DC Volts A through J

Please post your results, I have wondered about the same thing myself.

Will do. Just bought a really nice multimeter that reads up to 1000V DC.
Im going to try to gather all the Amp output data too although the multimeter is rated for 20A. Im not sure if that means it'll burn if the current in the welder goes beyond 20A. I think the max output of the Titanium 125 Easy Flux is 90A and 120V but I might be wrong. I'll be making a chart and ill post it here.

To measure the current, you can what is called a "ClampMeter", it is a current meter that has an open clamp that you put around the positive lead. They are usually rated in the hundreds of amps. Some of them will also read the voltage at the same time.

Thank you cmh31909
I will get one of those for my amp measurements for sure.
I saw clampmeters at harbor freight i believe when I was getting my multimeter. Clampmeters cost a bit more right? Like say 40 to 50 bucks?

Correction from my #3 post above. The Easy Flux 125 max amp output is 125A, not 90A. 90A is minimum output.

So, I'm planning a trip to the store this week to buy the "Ames Instruments CM610A 600A T-RMS AC/DC Clamp Meter" for $89.99.
Its the only clamp meter that measures DC amps in the range i need for DC welding. All others i found only measure current in AC or 30A DC on one model I saw which is far too low.
This one im buying measures up to 600A DC and 600V DC. Our readings won't go higher than 120V and our amps no more than 125A, hence the name, "Titanium 125".
Im going to make a nice graphical chart with Volt/Amperage conversions of the A through J settings on the Titanium Easy Flux 125 for the community to download or copy.
Be back here soon!

It is rated at 90 amps/30%duty cycle. 30 amp min. 125max but duty cycle would be much lower than 30%.

Should be interesting report.

Mine has been solid for several months. About 3 rolls of wire have run through it.

How do you attain max output? Both knobs maxed out? I have never welded with any wire feeder I’m that setting. Usually, fine tuning with the speed requires less than max.

2lb. Rolls, mostly. I take a 1 lb of Lincoln. Lincoln wire is nice but not worth the price.
It stays on my truck. Used on quick repairs.

Would max amperage be at opposite extremes. High speed and low voltage? I have done that more for welding out of machine comfort zone?

Quality wire makes a difference. HF wire is awful for consistent weldin beads.

UPDATE:
Bought a AMES 1000Amp AC/DC (6000 counts T-RMS INRUSH) clamp meter that also lets you use - and + contact leads for direct contact which is my preferred testing method. Turns out I had to buy this meter in any case because no other test meter reads DC and Volts within the Titanium 125s volts & amps (out of home depot, lowes, harbor freight options around $100 bucks). This model was $112.56 at harbor freight after tax. Any other better brand was in the high $200 and $300 range that did the same thing.
Im going to test using the test leads and then the clamp meter to compare accuracy. I dont want to use the clamp side if its not nailing down volts and amps. I know clamps can jump around about 4 to 6 volts (sometimes way more) and since there's already minor voltage drops at the arc (compared to the positive lead), I want this test to be as accurate as possible.
Testing will begin this Tuesday 27th as weather is warming to 60° with low humidity.
I'll be welding with Lincoln Electric Innershield .30 NR-211-MP-RSP (E71T-11) wire.

I think i understand what you're asking here..so to answer your question, I'm not exactly sure that this Titanium easy flux is set up that way. Normally as wire speed increases, so does amps in a Mig welder. The volts then, in theory, should be A - J on this device.
OR...this devices wire speed is not tied to amps and the A - J settings are "fixed" amps and volts for particular weld thicknesses (presets). I think sadly, its the latter of the 2.
I will find out in any case. I havent completed the testing yet but I will have that info soon. When I test A - J volts ill be checking for amp changes independent of wire speed and also checking if wire speed does raise amps like its supposed to. However I think this machine has presets. I could be wrong. Well see.

$112.56 plus 89.99 to read the volts and amps on tis little guy?


Good lord, plug it in and weld. Adjust as necessary.

I still don't understand folks obsession with trying to nail down this info on these machines.

If you increase or decrease the stick out and tip to distance you'll get a completely different reading.

I am interested in the test.


It is a nice machine and did not freeze when left in my truck in sub zero weather.

Welding is based on metal/thickness and the known volts/amps/wire speed to achieve a weld. I hope you already know this Broccoli1. Its not an obsession. The Titanium should be a little easier to setup the proper way so people (including myself) don't guess what voltage a weld and wire speed should be on a given metal and thickness. Have you no understanding of welding parameters? If that's obsession then let's all throw away science and guess china alphabet soup. Christ, if you don't like this test then bounce! Plenty more who want this info than those who think guessing is ok for finished welds. A through J isn't taught in no school. Volts, Amps and Wire speed for metals and thickness IS. And that's what im doing here.
Also if you're trying to teach me I think you're missing the point.
Stick out on a flux core can accurately be measured at 3/8 or 1/2 with the same reading. It doesn't change unless you're a total noob flying all over the place which I'm not. You knock things twice already by guessing obsessively. If you think you're influencing here with that kind of sense you're not.

A lot of people do these kind of tests to satisfy curiosity. I've done some as well on various machines.

But that's really all it is, curiosity. The numbers will fluctuate based on user repeatability. Input voltage and voltage drop using different extension cords will also change the numbers.

Unless you use a higher end machine that can control for changes, the tests are not repeatable in different locations under different conditions.

This is my experience based on transformer driven machines. I theorize that a low end inverter may be the same.

I find a more useful test to be finding out which settings I like for different thicknesses (if different from the door chart).

Happy testing, maybe you'll find useful data.

Btw, to find max amps for a small machine, set voltage to max and dial wire feed speed until it runs properly. This will be the max possible amperage output for that machine using that specific wire.

This is backwards from proper setting technique where the WFS is chosen first (to determine amps) and then volts are dialed until it runs right.

Yes I get what you're saying Shovelon. I do understand exactly what youre saying. Im doing my best to reduce that monkey wrench by pairing metals and other factors that work best. Travel speed and deposition rate are crucial for stable arc, yes. I appreciate your input. Im looking at many possible errors I could make.
Im on same page. There is a website which explains what most of are warning about such as flickering in the arc process, etc.. I had my brother learn from here and other Eaton Lincoln Miller/Hobart forums. Hobart forum is great. Miller app is ok but not the place to discuss hardware from HF.

https://www.yourarticlelibrary.com/welding/determining-stability-of-the-arc-welding/96450

Weld Guru is another good site.
This site is actually my favorite.

Most importantly, I am not recording a test weld unless I have a stable arc, or as close to perfect one as i can get. Thats the most important, not to distance from other factors. Arc wandering, electrode resistances to oxidation or cleaned metal, etc. Know im not leaving stones unturned. E71T-11 Lincoln is the wire im using (very basic carbon steel that kinda sucks bit i can get it to work well) and im welding on carbon steel A307 (or 307A). Im also going to run some tests comparatively with Hobart wire as its better than the Lincoln stuff I have, although not by much. Each wire and metal almost match in strength and both are low/med carbon steels.
Its going to be as close to 100% as I can get. I know most drawbacks. Theres always a negligible amount of voltage lost at the arc but its less than other types of welding. Its within acceptable limit. Im not Tig welding or stick welding. Next theres fluctuating volts during welds (around 3 to 9 - loss or spikes) There are other current spikes too (10 to 20 volts). These you don't measure. You measure the average constant which levels out after a few seconds provided you're technique is acceptable.
I'm testing against my low and high with other mediums (tool steel A2) and wire as well (hobart fluxcore) to see how different if at all it could be. If the result is different ill find out. Staying away from H42 high strength stuff because the Titanium and wires used cannot deposit well on that type. Broccoli1's Lincoln could do that stuff for example or a miller/Hobart multiprocess but not this machine.
This isn't up for debate. There isn't any reason it can't get done or shouldn't be done either. If you like letters fine. I dont. I love welding and getting to know parameters from numbers. There is nothing wrong with wanting to put some numbers to this little machine. Its not curiosity. If it was I wouldn't record and reference it. Reference for what you say? By fine tuning via numbers you can then get used to AWS parameters. Current, length of arc, angle, manipulation and travel speed are one parameter. Another is knowing the amps volts and speed suggestions as per Lincoln or Miller welding parameters like their books show. Im not trying to impress or debate. Im trying to do something first and foremost for myself and came here to see if anyone did it yet. I found out there was no one so I'm doing it. Many want to know since. Naturally I want to tackle unforeseen isues. But im past that. Im trying to gets accurate readings with known metals. Putting numbers to the letters is not only possible it isn't going to be FAR OFF from true output. It always drops off true output so you start there and find your OCV and min/max current. Go by what you know and test around that so you know if your test is even worth a crap.
Wandering current isn't a serious issue. Ill be drawing direct from the wall. Other types of wandering arc won't be a issue either. Also I dont weld on humid days. 30-40% humidity max. I live in Texas. Humidity is like 60 to 90% everyday. Thats why the test is going slow. Wire speed and Volts can be adjusted a gazillion ways yes, im only aiming for A - J and the (.5) half marks between letters and im going to play with wire speed by parameter averages and fine tune it from there. Im not going outside the formula as you can tune wire speed and volts in infinite ways. The Titaniums guide on the machine is ALWAYS too low or too high on speed too. Its guide is flawed in my experience. It can be easy or very tricky if you guess and don't go by known parameters which outperform any ballpark the Titanium offers. However im trying to narrow down those variables to get some baseline data for the Titanium.
Louie1961 I didn't say the machine definitely "didn't" run that way. I said I "think" it may not run that way and that was someone else's wonder, not my concern. I just wasn't sure how chinese this thing was in regards to proprietary hardware. You are correct on operation.
Broccoli1, letters on machines suck is all im saying, Lincoln or a Miller. Everyone knows volt and amp readouts are superior. Im trying to make this machine better for myself. If it helps others, great. Im here to run a decent test. Ive spent nearly $120 on the best Ames meter they made. Ive already decided against the clamp meter side because T-RMS claim ive found isn't as accurate as they say. It adds another variable to current fluctuating losing more accuracy.
Direct test leads are the way to go. If you go back in my 1st post you'll know I'm looking for things to do proper not improper and because I want to know for myself. So do others, not just here but all over the internet.
Plenty of pro welders do this exact test with meters. In fact I'm doing this too because its already done by welders in the first place. From auto manufacturers to custom weld shops (on youtube to name one place) who advise this is how you test machines with letter readouts for better adaption to weld parameters.

Thank you for all the input. I do like the cons as much as the pros.

Was this test ever completed by Mission Man?
I'm also someone who'd be interested in knowing the letters to voltage number relations on the Titanium (as discussed above).

Maybe the results are in another thread?

Thanks in advance.
Steverlord

I have not done this test yet due to moving from Texas to Colorado for work.
I am waiting on this house closing on April 18th when we can move in.
I apologize for the long delay, it's all moving related I will be doing this amp and volt test.

I tested mine, and the voltages jump around more than I realized/expected during a single weld, but the rough voltage numbers were -

A-13v B-14v C-15v D-16v E-17v F-18v G-19v H-20v I-21v J-22v

As double check, the recommended starting setting for the different thicknesses aligns with Lincoln's voltage setting chart for flux core.