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Boat Trailer repair

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TheProfessor

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#2 ·
I would imagine it rusted out there as a little water comes in the front of the tube, flows back there and couldn't get out and rusted it out as most people have their trailers nose high when not using. As well as that trailer is made, that piece really isn't that important for tongue strength. You could cut a notch out and slip a piece of angle in there to replace the top and side and weld it up, grind it well and no one would even know it had been repaired.
 
#4 ·
Looks like that tongue is a raceway for the wiring. I think a couple ''T'' flat stock brackets with drilled holes for bolting would be the easiest. Welding on that tongue could melt the insulation or the wires.
Make one side the width of the channel and the other the width of the tongue. You then bolt to the channel top and bottom and through bolt through the tongue. This will sandwich the tongue between the plates.
If you think you want more strength, add a couple on the sides too. Make sure the through bolts are staggered to miss the top and bottom through bolts. Splice plates are used for many applications.
You could do the same with some plate in a triangle shape, it depends what you have for steel.
As for the rusted opening, cover with sheet metal and caulk.
I would check the rest of the trailer, especially the axle and spring assembles. Was this used in Saltwater ?
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
_Dom said:
A very experienced craftsman CEP used to post regularly about a galvanizing process he used. Bars of zinc, he could warm up the steel with a torch and rub onto the steel if memory serves. This would be good idea for protecting the repair you make. Another alternative is cold galvanize, a spray can application available from CRC among others.
https://www.zoro.com/crc-galvanize-...crxwTj_db4-13yRMw_IFOuiAAcOgPt6UJoampTkHwepVtIZpAubtoaAs2kEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Click to expand...
Just have to be sure to stay up wind of the zinc fumes.

I've never tried hot galvanizing anything. I might have to give it a shot.

Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
_Dom said:
A very experienced craftsman CEP used to post regularly about a galvanizing process he used. Bars of zinc, he could warm up the steel with a torch and rub onto the steel if memory serves. This would be good idea for protecting the repair you make. Another alternative is cold galvanize, a spray can application available from CRC among others.
https://www.zoro.com/crc-galvanize-...crxwTj_db4-13yRMw_IFOuiAAcOgPt6UJoampTkHwepVtIZpAubtoaAs2kEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Click to expand...
I had a trailer built to specification. I paid extra to have it hot dipped galvanized. If I understand it is dipped in a hot acid bath before being dipped in the liquid zinc. I'd expect CEP's technique would only work if the steel was absolutely clean when zinc was applied.

Now deceased neighbor often "tinned" metal to prevent corrosion. He had large bars of solder, I believe were 50/50 lead & tin.

In your repair I doubt you'll find solid steel to weld to in the cross frame. I'd expect it to blow through as you weld. Grinding away the galvanizing outside is doable, inside it won't be easy. Use a vacuum cleaner or fan to draw the bad air away & stay upwind of the fumes, it is very toxic.

Liquid galvanize is OK for outside. Your corrosion is water, maybe salt water left inside the tongue. Repair will rust same place & no good way to galvanize the inside. I have a tub of Texaco Compound L Rustproofing Grease I've been using many years. Slobber grease inside with some makeshift sprayer, or heat it & pour it in.
 
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#8 ·
Bob said:
I would imagine it rusted out there as a little water comes in the front of the tube, flows back there and couldn't get out and rusted it out as most people have their trailers nose high when not using. As well as that trailer is made, that piece really isn't that important for tongue strength. You could cut a notch out and slip a piece of angle in there to replace the top and side and weld it up, grind it well and no one would even know it had been repaired.
Click to expand...
This is what I would do- cutout the rust back into good steel, cut a same size patch out of angle or same size tubing, weld it in - should be a simple repair. This is good stuff to repair the galvanizing.
https://store.zrcworldwide.com/zrc-galvilite-cold-galvanizing-compound-half-pint-24-per-case/

You can use an air siphoning nozzle with a long tube to coat the inside if the end is open.
 
#9 ·
A small drain hole at the bottom of the tube that rusted out might be a good addition as well...
 
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#10 ·
There is a product available from Harris and others. Harris calls theirs Gal-Vis. It's a 1/4" square 18" stick. While the Weld is still hot you just rub it on. Re-galvs the weld area. Or you can heat and apply as well. Low temp and much better than the spray. I've used a different brand as well as Harris version and I'm guessing they are the same. Rustoleum has cold galv spray too.
 
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