HELP... miller 330 a/bp - Page 2
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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Huntington, In
    Posts
    1,267

    Re: HELP... miller 330 a/bp

    Just hooked mine up a few weeks ago so I can't say fer sure.

    But I wouldn't think that the bill will go up any more than any other time I got a new toy "er" tool to play with!
    #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!
    #2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!

  2. #27

    Re: HELP... miller 330 a/bp

    Hi Gentlemen, I just picked up a 330 A/BP in similar shape to bullgod's, everything but the argon and the power cables. I'll need about 15 feet to where I'll be installing a new socket - don't think that the existing socket has thick enough wire. Jumpers are set on 230, and have a solid 245 at the existing socket. Any suggestions for the gauge I'll need for the power cables?

    Thanks,

    jim

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Olathe Kansas
    Posts
    667

    Re: HELP... miller 330 a/bp

    LOL @ electric is included in the rent, thats sweet.
    I have the ab/p 360 model , i friggin love it paid 100 bucks for it on craigslist, its paid for itself so many times there is no way i could ever part with it !
    I forgot how to change this.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    North of Philly
    Posts
    20,241

    Re: HELP... miller 330 a/bp

    Quote Originally Posted by jrstudio View Post
    Hi Gentlemen, I just picked up a 330 A/BP in similar shape to bullgod's, everything but the argon and the power cables. I'll need about 15 feet to where I'll be installing a new socket - don't think that the existing socket has thick enough wire. Jumpers are set on 230, and have a solid 245 at the existing socket. Any suggestions for the gauge I'll need for the power cables?

    Thanks,

    jim
    Jim the answer to that will depend on how big a breaker you can run in your panel. I know a few guys here who are making do with minimal breakers (50-60 amp). They can't run full power or they will trip the breaker, but most can usually get by doing most light steel and some light alum projects with those. Remember the breaker protects the wires, not the machine, so you would use heavier wire for a 100amp breaker than say a 60amp. My 50 amp is using 6 ga and the 100 amp panel for the shop might be 2 ga ( it's the old service cable and panel that I had the electrician move when we upgraded to the 200 amp service) When in doubt, always check with an electrician before doing any electrical work.

    You'll probably get more answers if you post this as a seperate question in the electrical section.
    .



    No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth!

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  5. #30

    Re: HELP... miller 330 a/bp

    I have the same machine and I am having problems. I have always tig welded with newer machines such as a syncrowave 250 and not sure if I have everything set up correct. Welding .090 aluminum with the amps around 90 argon flow at 17-20 hi feq at 80 and start control around 6. It makes decent looking welds but it does not seem correct. The tungsten is always dull and there seems to be a yellowish powdery look to the cup. I have asked my local welding shop and nobody seems to know what it might be. I have changed argon bottles thinking it might be a gas problem but it did not help. Any thoughts would be helpful.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis Indiana
    Posts
    1,075

    Re: HELP... miller 330 a/bp

    Quote Originally Posted by crwelding View Post
    I have the same machine and I am having problems. I have always tig welded with newer machines such as a syncrowave 250 and not sure if I have everything set up correct. Welding .090 aluminum with the amps around 90 argon flow at 17-20 hi feq at 80 and start control around 6. It makes decent looking welds but it does not seem correct. The tungsten is always dull and there seems to be a yellowish powdery look to the cup. I have asked my local welding shop and nobody seems to know what it might be. I have changed argon bottles thinking it might be a gas problem but it did not help. Any thoughts would be helpful.
    Make sure the machine is set to AC, and the hf switch set to continuous. If you don't have a gas lens yet, get one.

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