‘64 sa200
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Thread: ‘64 sa200

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    ‘64 sa200

    Hello all. I am a new member and new to the SA200 world. My grandfather is an old diesel mechanic and John Deere collector and seemed to always have SA200’s sitting around so it was only fitting I bought one to restore with the intentions of keeping it forever. That being said I purchased a ‘64 that was not welding. Ended up being a bad exciter armature and now she is making power on the generator end(I did the exciter coils as well). I upgraded to a electric low idle and did away with the R-57. During this retorofit I found two issues...1. My battery was bad 2. My original charging generator was bad. After reading through lots of input on this forum I have decided to go with the 10si alternator as they are readily available at any parts house for half the price of a 1 wire online.

    My question about this is my current low idle kit is wired into the oil pressure switch that came with it. When I concert to the 10si I will also have to tie into an oil pressure switch correct? When I do this can I tie into the same oil pressure switch? Also does anybody have a wiring diagram for the 10si on the SA200?

    Also when I get everything rebuilt I plan to then label and tear down for paint. How is everybody painting their units? Do I need to separate the generator from the engine to paint? If I do separate it, is it a bad idea to have the original main armature dipped and baked prior to reinstalling?
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  2. #2
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Yes, you can use the same oil pressure switch for the alternator as the one used for the new idler system.


    Wiring the 10SI is easy. Obviously the BAT terminal connects to the (+) battery terminal at the starter solenoid. 10ga. wire is typical and if an ammeter is used wiring would be from the alternator BAT terminal to the (+) terminal of the ammeter and from the (-) ammeter terminal to the main (+) battery cable at the starter solenoid.

    To excite the 10SI upon startup, a 16-14ga wire should run from the Normally Open side of the oil pressure switch to the "1" terminal of the alternator. Some prefer to install an indicator lamp in series in this circuit but is not necessary for proper alternator operation but could take the place of an ammeter or used in addition to.


    Your choice to either paint assembled or separated and as far as dipping/baking the main armature, I personally see little to no value in doing so although many choose to do so.
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  3. #3
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Thanks Duane for the Info.

    Here is little update on how I spent most my week off on the 200. Cleaned up most the wiring for the on/off switch and relocated it and the push start to the front of the machine. Picked up analternator and got the brackets I wanted ordered along with three Murphy gauges. While waiting for those to show up I fabricated a thermostat retainer and picked up a new thermostat. When I started removing all the old hoses they were full of rust, so was the thermostat housing, which to my surprise had no thermostat or retainer installed in it. I figured I’d go ahead and flush the cooling system via the coolant petcock in the side of the block. Well this turned into a 2 day ordeal as I wasn’t satisfied with just flushing it. Ended up removing the radiator and having it cleaned and tested. Was informed by the radiator shop it was rotted out and needed tobereolaxed. Nobody in the Waco area wants to recore it. While I was stewing on this I formation I removed the head so that I could better clean the jackets with my chemical of choice, as well as remove all the carbon on the valves and pistons. Good thing I did. Pretty nasty.

    Got the water jackets about as clean as they are going to get unless I strip the block and have it boiled out. Head cleaned up nice. Murphy gauges showed up and I did little prep work welding a nut to the plug on the head that needed to be removed to Install temp probe. Worked like a charm. Waiting on a head gasket, and valve cover gasket currently so I can re install the head, set my valve lash and then work on my radiator issue. I’m headed back offshore Tuesday for a week so it’ll give me time for all the parts to show up and I can keep digging into this thing on my next 7 days off.
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  4. #4
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    There are a number of suppliers of replacement SA200 radiators on eBay for less than what a re-core would cost.

    I've use a number of radiators from Abilene Machine Sales but they can be out of stock from time to time.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/G10877198-N...19.m1438.l2649

    Search G10877198 or Lincoln SA200 radiator and you'll find plenty of choices.
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  5. #5
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Look nice,,,no temp stat? Did oil look milky?purposed of temp stat is keep engine from sweating inside so won"t turn oil to sludge,,, me would also flip oil filter housing and repipe ,you used brake line with flare tool,,,second on radiator on ebay,,,

  6. #6
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Quote Originally Posted by charlie53843 View Post
    . . . would also flip oil filter housing and repipe
    Why? Nothing wrong with the way it is from the factory.
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  7. #7
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    Why? Nothing wrong with the way it is from the factory.
    Upside down oil filter seems like it would be a mess to change.
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  8. #8
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    The upside down oil filter will drain back to the crankcase if you wait a little while.
    The proper filter will not have a standpipe in it since it is a partial flow system.
    The real purpose of the thermostat is to keep the engine at a constant temperature.
    This makes the engine last longer.
    Some engines will overheat if run without a thermostat.

  9. #9
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Quote Originally Posted by rexcormack View Post
    The upside down oil filter will drain back to the crankcase if you wait a little while.
    Yeah I suppose yer right.
    Prolly help things to poke a hole in the bottom of the filter too

    I still don’t like it
    My wood splitter is set up the same way for hyd. Fluid.

    Probably the reason I never changed it in 15 years
    LoL...


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  10. #10
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    The upside-down SA200 oil filter drains extremely quickly. Typically as quick or quicker than it takes to get the drain pan, wrench and drain the base. After all, that's what it's designed to do - drain back to base by gravity.
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  11. #11
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Ok so I wired up my 10SI exactly how Duane mentioned in the thread above. I also added some Murphy oil and water gauges along with the ammeter. Anyways when I fire this thing up the ammeter sits at 0.not a tick above or a tick below. I basically went with a wild guess and tied into the side of the oil pressure switch that the yellow wire that runs to my idle board connects to as well. Is the ammeter supposed to sit at 0 or should it indicate positive like it’s getting a charge? The battery is brand new and I hate to smoke the battery when I actually put this machine to work.
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  12. #12
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Can you post a photo of the alternator connections?

    How did you wire up the Ammeter?
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  13. #13
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Duane

    I have the battery term on the back of the alternator wired to the positive side of the ammeter. Then from the negative side of the ammeter I am running to the big post of the starter where my positive battery cable is also connected as shown in the picture. I have the yellow wire running from the #1 term of the alternator to the oil pressure switch. The yellow wire that was used is also spliced into my idler board connection on the oil pressure switch.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  14. #14
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    With unit running, do you have 12VDC(+) on the yellow wire at the alternator?

    To check to see if the alternator is capable of output, insert a small screwdriver into the little "D" shaped hole indicated by the red arrow to connect the tab on the (-) brush holder and alternator body. This will "full field" the alternator which will be indicated by a positive charge rate at the ammeter. If the unit proves to produce output this way, the internal regulator is likely defective.

    Name:  23BEB8DF-13CE-4D4B-B793-7AF4E7C67C3A.jpg
Views: 48
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    Last edited by duaneb55; 09-19-2018 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Helps to post the photo.
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  15. #15
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    I have voltage at the yellow wire and when I pressed in that tab the ammeter is still sitting at zero
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  16. #16
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Do you have voltage thru the ammeter - on the (-) terminal as well? If not, the ammeter is bad. If yes, I'd suspect the new alternator.
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  17. #17
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    I have 12.05v on both the positive and neg side of the ammeter. Gonna run down and swap out this alternator since there is a lifetime warranty. I appreciate the ongoing help and will keep you updated
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  18. #18
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    The D-R 10/12SI alternators default to internally voltage sensing when the remote sensing terminal (#2) is not used. To eliminate any possible voltage sensing issue you could run a small gauge wire from the BAT terminal to the #2 terminal and check for output with and without the screwdriver grounding test.
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  19. #19
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Ok so when I add the small wire jumper from the batt terminal to the #2 on the alternator it now shows a positive charge on the ammeter! When I remove the wire it shows zero. Can I just leave this remote sensing wire from the batt to# 2 or is there somewhere else i should sense the voltage from?
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  20. #20
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Interesting. Leave it connected as is.

    Remote sensing is for applications with high current draw components that are powered from a distribution block at a distance from the battery/alternator.
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  21. #21
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Thanks Duane! Next time I roll through Orange I
    I owe you some beer! Have a couple buddies living down there I work with!
    1965 SA200
    (In Progress)
    Code:5604
    A-529631
    Millermatic 211
    Makin it up as I go...

  22. #22
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    Re: ‘64 sa200

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    The D-R 10/12SI alternators default to internally voltage sensing when the remote sensing terminal (#2) is not used. To eliminate any possible voltage sensing issue you could run a small gauge wire from the BAT terminal to the #2 terminal and check for output with and without the screwdriver grounding test.
    I seen that earlier and wondered but I'm not real familiar with the SA-200 series. I did put this 10SI on one of my Macks several years ago and it's always worked. Lead #2 is field excitation, and Lead one goes to a light on the dash:

    Name:  20180919_141518_resized.jpg
Views: 40
Size:  79.1 KB

    I was wondering how he would get any field excitation without that #2 terminal having voltage applied.
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